Regis Report post Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) I am sewing with 277/207. I back stitch 3-4 stitches (at start & end) and trim. The stitching is secure but, I don't like the look and some thread can back out. I've tried to burn/melt the string end and have put drop of super glue but, don't know the best way. What is best way to clean-up & secure the thread end. Thanks, Regis Edited April 28, 2008 by Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) Regis, this will be more R&D for wednesday.... but i do it like you just said, cut thread off on the back side and then burn the ends. nother point to ponder 'the larger the thread the more you will see' something else to think about. In the John Bianchi video he will use a Bone Folder to smothe the threads down. Edited April 28, 2008 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted April 28, 2008 Luke, Thanks. I haven't been pulling the 2nd thread to the back like you said. I need to do that and maybe that's why I don't like the look!!! We can sew-up that belt we talked about. Should I strap my Artisan 3000 on my back and bring to Memphis [LOL]? I surely like that machine. Actually, I'm not even bringing the portable because I've mounted it pretty solid in a cabinet. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted April 28, 2008 there are plenty Machines here for you to use. The only Permission you have to have is.......from your Wife.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted April 28, 2008 (edited) I am sewing with 277/207. I back stitch 3-4 stitches (at start & end) and trim. The stitching is secure but, I don't like the look and some thread can back out. I've tried to burn/melt the string end and have put drop of super glue but, don't know the best way. What is best way to clean-up & secure the thread end. Thanks, Regis Regis, I too have been less than impressed on several of my ending backstitch areas. As said, pull the thread through the backside. Another way I cut the ends very close is I use a small diagonal cutting plier to cit the length of thread as close to the leather as possible. It makes a much neater (and easier for me) cut, and I less chance of the blade accidentally slipping and cutting the leather. Also, after I finish stitching, I run the stitching wheel over the stitches. Then also after the holster has been molded. When you put the final coat of seal on the top, that should also keep te fly-away threads at bay. If not, snap them with the diagonal pliers. Edited April 28, 2008 by Shorts Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Hilly Report post Posted April 28, 2008 Regis, I too have been less than impressed on several of my ending backstitch areas. As said, pull the thread through the backside. Another way I cut the ends very close is I use a small diagonal cutting plier to cit the length of thread as close to the leather as possible. It makes a much neater (and easier for me) cut, and I less chance of the blade accidentally slipping and cutting the leather.Also, after I finish stitching, I run the stitching wheel over the stitches. Then also after the holster has been molded. When you put the final coat of seal on the top, that should also keep te fly-away threads at bay. If not, snap them with the diagonal pliers. Another way you can get even closer when clipping threads, is to use a cuticle scissors. You can buy them at any pharmacy, health/beauty dept. The look exactly like a miniature side cutters, but are small enough you can get right inside the stitching holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunfighter48 Report post Posted April 29, 2008 You can use an exacto knife to cut the thread very close. I don't back stitch, I use a very small 1/2 drop of super glue in the stitching hole to lock down the stitches. Leave about 3/4 inch of thread showing. I usually put a little on the 2 or 3 stitching holes before the end. You can do this on the back side of your work and it's invisible from the front side. Do this after you dye your work as the super glue will seal the leather and dye won't work on it. Once the super glue is dry, lay the exacto knife blade flat on the stitches and move it toward the tag end of the thread, apply a little pressure on the tag end and it should cut right off. I use this method on my heavy duty gun belts and holsters and have never had a stitch break loose. If you have a hobby shop near by. pay them a visit. There are several grades of super glues from very thin to very thick. I use the medium thick variety. I won't run thru the stitching holes and onto the front of the work; as long as you use small 1/2 drops. A little practice and you'll do just fine. They also sell very small diameter needle point applicator tips that make the job very easy. John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Srigs Report post Posted April 30, 2008 I agree with Shorts...I don't back stitch either. I just snip the threads close and after top coat the threads won't go anywhere. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Leather Bum Report post Posted May 1, 2008 You can use an exacto knife to cut the thread very close. I don't back stitch, I use a very small 1/2 drop of super glue in the stitching hole to lock down the stitches. Leave about 3/4 inch of thread showing. I usually put a little on the 2 or 3 stitching holes before the end. You can do this on the back side of your work and it's invisible from the front side. Do this after you dye your work as the super glue will seal the leather and dye won't work on it. Once the super glue is dry, lay the exacto knife blade flat on the stitches and move it toward the tag end of the thread, apply a little pressure on the tag end and it should cut right off. I use this method on my heavy duty gun belts and holsters and have never had a stitch break loose.If you have a hobby shop near by. pay them a visit. There are several grades of super glues from very thin to very thick. I use the medium thick variety. I won't run thru the stitching holes and onto the front of the work; as long as you use small 1/2 drops. A little practice and you'll do just fine. They also sell very small diameter needle point applicator tips that make the job very easy. John Thanks for explaining how you do it, Gunfighter. To make sure I understand it right, do you put a 1/2 drop of super glue into the stitching hole(s) (2 or 3) before running the thread through. . .or after pulling the stitches tight? I want the end threads/stitches locked in place without having to use a bulky knot. . . L'Bum Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gunfighter48 Report post Posted May 1, 2008 Thanks for explaining how you do it, Gunfighter. To make sure I understand it right, do you put a 1/2 drop of super glue into the stitching hole(s) (2 or 3) before running the thread through. . .or after pulling the stitches tight? I want the end threads/stitches locked in place without having to use a bulky knot. . .L'Bum Pull the stitches tight and make sure the knot is in the middle of the last hole. Leave a tag end on each side of the work, then put a little super glue on the tag end hole. And I usually do the 2nd and 3rd hole for good measure. You only want to put enough glue on so it wicks down into the hole but not enough to go all the way thru to the front of the work. The medium and very thick glues help to keep it from running all the way thru the work. If you get a little too much on the back side fold a paper towel so it has a point and just touch the point quickly to the excess glue and it will wick right up the paper towel. Just don't leave the towel on the spot too long or it will bond to the leather. A little practice and you'll have it down, no problem. The thick super glues take a couple of minutes to dry. The really thin glues dry very very quickly but they flow everywhere, especially where you don't want any glue!!!!!!! I used to build giant scale radio controlled airplanes (up to 50 lbs and 150 in wing spans and up to 75 CC gas engines) and super glues were my constant companions along with epoxy glues. Some of my landings were known to be a LITTLE rough!!!!!!! LOL John Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
gesa Report post Posted May 1, 2008 Hello Regis, I was tought to take a round awl , I personally prefer a dull tip for this, put a little drop of wood glue and push the thread end into the leather. Sometimes it is nessecary to do it from both sides. If the hole looks a little wider than the others, I take a hammer and tap to close it a bit. Gesa Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Regis Report post Posted May 2, 2008 Thanks everyone. I'm actually going to try each of these and settle on one or two. Regis Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shorts Report post Posted May 5, 2008 Hilly, good tip on the cuticle cutters. gunfighter48, the drop of glue sounds great as well (I have tons of stuff from my airplane models). I think the tips here used in conjunction with each other ought to make for some very solid endings Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites