BearMan Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 Hi Everybody,,, I just had to jump in here,,, I've seen some of the results from the wool burnshers, & they produce a very smooth & shinny edge,,,, but I haven't seen anything that will produce a smooth , shinny,,, & DURABLE edge as the "Bob Park" method. Here's a picture of my old drill press burnisher,,, with a padded duck cloth covered section. It works pretty well,,, for a quick edge. Ed the"BearMan" Quote Ed the"BearMan" polarb1717@aol.com Beary: BearMauls@yahoo.com http://tinyurl.com/BearMauls "The Best tooling mauls available today!"
King's X Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 Wow! First that secret gift box and now this! Are you sure you want to stay involved with leather? Quote Greetings from Central Texas! The Grain Side Up blog #TheGrainSideUp
gtwister09 Posted October 1, 2010 Report Posted October 1, 2010 (edited) Ed and I have had this discussion offline that we have tried many different types over the years. That's one of the reasons for wanting to see the pictures of the edges. Everyone is looking for better edges (Hoping for easier but that is generally elusive ). I know John B. used the felt pads for his edges. Many others use that as well including the Fantastic. I personally would like to see an edge to see how well his actual edge formula is working out. Just my selfish desire to be honest. I know that over 30 years ago I burned up a rotary tool (Dremel) with a lignum vitae handle that I modified when I was burnishing edges for almost every item in a western wear store for extra money. I moved onto a drill press type almost immediately. In visiting and talking with many older saddlemakers a lot of them have rotary burnishers that are 60-70 or more years old. Most but not all of them have some form of canvas/duck material in there as well for their initial edges, Most will tell you that there's NO SUBSTITUTE for elbow grease though for a final edge. Likewise there are a number of different types of rotary burnishers listed on here as well. Nothing new but we keep looking for a better mousetrap....hoping and praying for one actually when it comes to edges. Regards, Ben Edited October 1, 2010 by gtwister09 Quote
Contributing Member Ferg Posted October 1, 2010 Contributing Member Report Posted October 1, 2010 Ed and I have had this discussion offline that we have tried many different types over the years. That's one of the reasons for wanting to see the pictures of the edges. Everyone is looking for better edges (Hoping for easier but that is generally elusive ). I know John B. used the felt pads for his edges. Many others use that as well including the Fantastic. I personally would like to see an edge to see how well his actual edge formula is working out. Just my selfish desire to be honest. I know that over 30 years ago I burned up a rotary tool (Dremel) with a lignum vitae handle that I modified when I was burnishing edges for almost every item in a western wear store for extra money. I moved onto a drill press type almost immediately. In visiting and talking with many older saddlemakers a lot of them have rotary burnishers that are 60-70 or more years old. Most but not all of them have some form of canvas/duck material in there as well for their initial edges, Most will tell you that there's NO SUBSTITUTE for elbow grease though for a final edge. Likewise there are a number of different types of rotary burnishers listed on here as well. Nothing new but we keep looking for a better mousetrap....hoping and praying for one actually when it comes to edges. Regards, Ben As I stated previously, I built a burnisher similar to the one Bob Park uses in his shop. I have been making some Note Book covers while trying different methods. I know, that is a large piece of leather to be experimenting on. Except for one I threw away I have kept them for myself. I lined one with Oiled leather about 3/4 oz. The "Innards" of this leather is very much like suede. I knew going in that the edge would be a problem. I followed Bob Park's "Edge Tutorial" and really worked the saddle soap and glycerine soap into the edge, then applied paraffin wax. Except for a small section that seemed to separate on the inner part of the oiled leather it doesn't look too bad. In fact, it looks good enough to use that leather again for the inside liner. For any of you that have not used this leather before, it "marks" easily and may not look good to some folks. The vintage look it has suits me for some items, this piece included. Will be interesting how well the "soft" edge withstands use. I don't have the stitching on this piece complete. I am going to burnish it again with Paraffin Wax after. ferg Quote
Members JeffGC Posted March 6, 2013 Members Report Posted March 6, 2013 I have read this thread with considerable interest. Nothing indicates quality leather crafting more than a perfect edge. The Fantastic Leather Burnisher reminds me of the system used by John Bianchi, in his video series. From the Fantastic Leather Burnisher video on YouTube, he's waxing and then burning the edge, resulting in the dark edge. Bianchi uses multiple wool felt disks on an arbor, with side washers. I don't know anyone that knows more about quality edging than Bob Park. Amazingly, he is willing to share his knowledge with anyone. Basically, I follow his methods, with a few slight changes to speed up the work process. My second step is burnishing with canvas saturated with yellow saddle soap. I use a 1.5" x 1.5" sanding drum system from Rockler. I mount the canvas to the sanding drum with Barge Cement and use it in a drill press at about 900 RPM. My last step is to apply a wax mixture (50% beeswax / 50% paraffin) to the edge and then burnish on a drill press with a leatherburnishers.com burnisher. My edges are close to perfect. The final burnish is also at 900 RPM. Jeff C. Quote
Frank Posted March 7, 2013 Report Posted March 7, 2013 The first time I saw the "fantastic edge burnisher" was actually in the John Bianchi holster videos. I think it started with him and then was copied as John showed also how to make the felt wheels. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Trox Posted March 7, 2013 Report Posted March 7, 2013 The first time I saw the "fantastic edge burnisher" was actually in the John Bianchi holster videos. I think it started with him and then was copied as John showed also how to make the felt wheels. Hi Frank, you know this is a old tread from 2010? Like everybody else I been fooling around with all kinds of burnishing material too and been wondering about the (fantastic) wheel; Is it any good or not. Is any of those Bianchi videos on Youtube or somewhere else? I just want to see the wheel making part and I do not want to buy a DVD to do so. In advance thanks Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Frank Posted March 7, 2013 Report Posted March 7, 2013 Yes, I do realize it was an old thread but someone posted just prior to me posting otherwise I wouldn't have said anything. As far as the John Bianchi video, they are not on YouTube that I know of. The wheel itself was a mandril attached to the motor and the 100% wool felt rounds were cut out via a punch, packed together, and bolted on the mandril. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Trox Posted March 7, 2013 Report Posted March 7, 2013 Yes, I do realize it was an old thread but someone posted just prior to me posting otherwise I wouldn't have said anything. As far as the John Bianchi video, they are not on YouTube that I know of. The wheel itself was a mandril attached to the motor and the 100% wool felt rounds were cut out via a punch, packed together, and bolted on the mandril. Hi Frank, yes a old thread but never out of date. So he used pure wool felt, I will try that too. Thank you for the information. Then he used wax I guess. I use two kinds of wood wheels on my burnishing motor. One is made out of cocobolo, I use this with water only. The other wheel creates more heat and I use this for wax. It is good to have different wheels because leather react different to burnishing. With a wool felt wheel in addition to the two I have, I will cover more types of leather. I think some of the for sale buffing wheels are made of pure wool felt, I will check it out. About wax; what kind of wax are you using, do you use paraffin wax? I see many use paraffin wax together with bees wax. The paraffin wax is not available from my Norwegian suppliers, do you know where I can buy some to try it out. In advance thanks. Tor Quote Tor Workshop machines: TSC 441 clone/Efka DC1550, Dürkopp-Adler 267-373/Efka DC1600, Pfaff 345-H3/Cobra 600W, Singer 29K-72, Sandt 8 Ton clicking machine, Alpha SM skiving unit, Fortuna 620 band knife splitting machine. Old Irons: Adler 5-27, Adler 30-15, Singer 236W-100
Frank Posted March 7, 2013 Report Posted March 7, 2013 Tor, Bianchi used a 50/50 mixture of beeswax and paraffin. I use that as well, for my second burnishing. I get my paraffin at the local grocery store or super market as it is the same as the canning wax. I believe it is the "Ball" brand canning wax but I could be wrong on the name. If you have home canning supplies where you are located, then you should be able to get the wax. Quote Never argue with a stupid person. They'll just drag you down to their level and beat you with experience!!
Recommended Posts
Join the conversation
You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.
Note: Your post will require moderator approval before it will be visible.