Pigskin Lining

[Rylas]

Hi guys, I've been trying to make a lined ipod case but I just can't wrap my head around the best way to line it and have it look good (or even work good). I've tried cutting the pigskin to size and gluing it only to realize that it creates ugly folds in the bottom when I actually fold it up to stitch. I've also tried cutting an oversized piece and trimming it after stitching, but it leaves ugly edges even if I dye them. Any tips to make this work better? Thanks!

[GrampaJoel]

Fold it and glue the fold first, then when it is dry, you have a pre-set bend, so then glue the rest. It helps keep wrinkles to a minimum.

[Chief31794]

Not sure if it will help you but I line a lot of purses and the way I do it is after carving and dying, I install any hardware (purses have catches) that don't go through the leather, then I glue a liner to each piece before folding or assembly. I normally cut an over size piece of liner for each piece in the construction, then use contact cement. I lay the pigskin lining down with backside showing, then staple the corners after pulling very flat and even, I then coat the liner and back of the leather with contact cement, wait 30-45 minutes, then put the leather down on the liner, I then "roll" it to ensure a good pressure bond. After that the liner and the leather are like on piece of leather and you can fold, mold, etc without any wrinkles. I also burnish all of the edges. I think that may solve your problem, however, there are much better craftsmen and craftswomen out here than me and maybe they'll chime in with a better suggestion.

Welcome to the forum,

Ken

Forgot that after bonding, I wait several hours then trim each piece very carefully with a very sharp knife. I normally have lacing holes so I punch them after the bond is very stable as well. I've never had a problem with wrinkles in any fold or along the piece.

Ken

[Dwight]

Hi guys, I've been trying to make a lined ipod case but I just can't wrap my head around the best way to line it and have it look good (or even work good). I've tried cutting the pigskin to size and gluing it only to realize that it creates ugly folds in the bottom when I actually fold it up to stitch. I've also tried cutting an oversized piece and trimming it after stitching, but it leaves ugly edges even if I dye them. Any tips to make this work better? Thanks!

That's an easy one, . . . lay your vegetable tanned leather face down on the work table. Do the same with your pigskin lining.

Now cover the back sides of each with Weldwood contact cement, available at any local lumber and most hardware stores. When it is dry, . . . about an hour or so, . . . can be done sooner if you are very careful in using a heat gun, . . . lay the veggie tan glued side on top of the pig skin glued side, . . . cover with a pillow case or something to protect the face of the veggie tan leather, . . . roll it with a rolling pin.

You now have basically one thickness of leather to work with, . . . make your ipod case from it. We do this all the time making holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Rylas]

Thanks guys! These are great tips. I'm going to try them out this weekend.

[Shiloh]

That's an easy one, . . . lay your vegetable tanned leather face down on the work table. Do the same with your pigskin lining.

Now cover the back sides of each with Weldwood contact cement, available at any local lumber and most hardware stores. When it is dry, . . . about an hour or so, . . . can be done sooner if you are very careful in using a heat gun, . . . lay the veggie tan glued side on top of the pig skin glued side, . . . cover with a pillow case or something to protect the face of the veggie tan leather, . . . roll it with a rolling pin.

You now have basically one thickness of leather to work with,

THAT IS AWESOME.

[retiredff]

That's an easy one, . . . lay your vegetable tanned leather face down on the work table. Do the same with your pigskin lining.

Now cover the back sides of each with Weldwood contact cement, available at any local lumber and most hardware stores. When it is dry, . . . about an hour or so, . . . can be done sooner if you are very careful in using a heat gun, . . . lay the veggie tan glued side on top of the pig skin glued side, . . . cover with a pillow case or something to protect the face of the veggie tan leather, . . . roll it with a rolling pin.

You now have basically one thickness of leather to work with, . . . make your ipod case from it. We do this all the time making holsters.

May God bless,

Dwight

I know, it's a 4 year old thread but this is good info.

This sounds great to me, but if the leather will be formed (wet) will the water effect the glue?

[Chief31794]

Contact Cement will not be affected by water if it is dried completely before you wet for molding. I do the same thing with holsters when I laminate two pieces of leather together to get a smooth surface on both sides and a stronger (Stiffer) holster. I then wet it thoroughly and mold. One thing, on the holsters, I sew the stiffener and/or the opening in the top and bottom before wetting for molding (just helps and it's hard to sew them once you've molded the holster, then I continue the stitching through the glued edge(s), after it's molded and dry. then I dress the edges. It should work the same way with pigskin, but I don't normally mold items with pigskin linings in them.

Chief

[retiredff]

Thanks chief, I will try it.

[Chief31794]

Thanks chief, I will try it.

As always, don't take my word for it, there maybe differences in the contact cement, etc. Try it on a piece of scrap, glue them together, completely dry then soak them as if you were molding and see if the glue bonds well for you.

Chief

[Dwight]

I have not done a lot with pigskin, and haven't done anything for a couple of years.

BUT, . . . like the old thread said, . . . it works. The key is first getting the contact cement DRY, . . . if you can touch it and feel any sticky or liquidity to it, . . . it is not dry yet. I have a heat gun I use when I'm in a hurry, . . . that will work too. I also think it works better because of the heat, . . . but I don't have anything but my own experience to bolster that.

AFTER it is dry, . . . put em together, . . . put a pillowcase or something similar to that type of material on it, . . . roll it with a rolling pin, . . . and let it set for 6 to 10 hours, . . . by then you will have 99% or so of the bond you are ever going to get.

If you did it correct, . . . the only way it will come apart is where the leather separates internally. The glue will not give way, . . . or at least that has been my experience with contact cement for the last 50 or so years.

Chief and Katsass both make holsters that way, . . . I make a few that way, . . . made one some time back, . . . laughingly call it my spare round. That thing got so hard after molding that it could easily be used as a weapon, itself. It's my "out on the property" holster, . . . no worries about it ever getting hurt.

May God bless,

Dwight

[retiredff]

As always, don't take my word for it, there maybe differences in the contact cement, etc. Try it on a piece of scrap, glue them together, completely dry then soak them as if you were molding and see if the glue bonds well for you.

Chief

I'm just learning and have plenty of veg tan scrap, I'll pickup some cheap pig skin and try this before moving on.

Thanks for the suggestions.

Tony