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PHIPPS CRAFTED LEATHER

Smoothing Out The Flesh Side Of The Leather

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Another question. I have 8-9 oz veg tanned leather and I want to get the flesh side smooth. My question is what do other people use. I am using a battery operated lint remover, which I have to buy the wife a new one. It works very well and makes the flesh side very smooth, not baby skin smooth but nothing like it was. How about you all, what do you do.

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well there a couple of different ways i use, depending on the effect i'm going for. i have used water and slicker to smooth it out. i have also used gum-T and a slicker. i have also used the lint remover you described on some of my owb holsters when needed.

Tony

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The best thing I found was to buy better leather. The stuff I had from Tandy was fuzzy like a sweater. Boomstick pointed me toward some over a Zach White's that had a very smooth back. My next leather will probably be Herman Oak from Springfield.

Bronson

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I've had good luck sanding down the fuzz with very fine grit sandpaper. This brings it down to a very, very short fine fuzz. Then wet and burnish. But that hardens it up some. I just finished a holster where I did this because they wanted it. It looked like a very fine suede.

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I've had good luck sanding down the fuzz with very fine grit sandpaper. This brings it down to a very, very short fine fuzz. Then wet and burnish. But that hardens it up some. I just finished a holster where I did this because they wanted it. It looked like a very fine suede.

GrampaJoel:

I recommend against using sandpaper on surfaces that will end up in contact with a good handgun. Grit particles can become lodged in the leather, remaining there to work as an abrasive on the handgun's finish.

For minor roughness or fuzz on the flesh side I recommend any of the acrylic sealants (leather sheen, super sheen, etc), sponged on then slicked down.

For serious roughness, it is time to find a better supplier.

Best regards.

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Ok, good suggestions. Now when do you apply the sheen product? Before wetting and moulding, before you dye, before you sew together. Also here are pics of my newest holster for the same weapon.

GrampaJoel:

I recommend against using sandpaper on surfaces that will end up in contact with a good handgun. Grit particles can become lodged in the leather, remaining there to work as an abrasive on the handgun's finish.

For minor roughness or fuzz on the flesh side I recommend any of the acrylic sealants (leather sheen, super sheen, etc), sponged on then slicked down.

For serious roughness, it is time to find a better supplier.

Best regards.

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Edited by PHIPPS CRAFTED LEATHER

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You can apply the acrylic before assembly and stitching, let it dry thoroughly, then proceed. This will slow water absorption a bit, so you will need to soak a little longer prior to forming.

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The best thing I found was to buy better leather. The stuff I had from Tandy was fuzzy like a sweater. Boomstick pointed me toward some over a Zach White's that had a very smooth back. My next leather will probably be Herman Oak from Springfield.

Bronson

:16:

Also the area you cut from will matter, even on 'good' leather. Back & butt first, then shoulders, then neck and belly. The reason I believe that is is for the tanning process and how thick the piece of leather is intended to be. Think about when a piece of wood is planed. To get it level, you have to take it down to the thinnest area of the board. Leather is the same way. When a side is "planed", for example 7/8oz, the areas of the side that are naturally thinner than 7/8oz that won't be brought down to tight fibers.

Edited by Shorts

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I wet it down with a sponge and burnish with an old soup spoon. Works reasonably well. The advice about using better quality leather is well taken.

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One of the really knowledgeable folks on here told me he lets the gum trag dry before slicking and it does a much better job.

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