Using Un-Dyed Leather ~ Who Does It?

[ShortBBL]

I'm curious who makes their holsters using leather that is needing to be dyed? I've only made my sheaths and holsters using W&C Skirting mostly, drum dyed in chestnut and Black.

I LOVE the chestnut color and so if I used undyed leather, I have no clue how I could get such a great color as Feibings does not make chestnut dye!

I ask mostly because when I cut leather, even 6-7 oz stuff cuts SO hard that it takes 2 and sometime 3 passes. Today I cut some 14oz Skirting that I bought for welts and I was floored..... it cut like butter!! SO easy to cut!! The drum dyed stuff is so hard and undyed seems like it would be super nice to work with. i am thinking of trying it!

So... the questions...

If you use undyed leather, do you dip dye?

Is it possible to find a nice chestnut color somewhere?

When you dye the leather yourself, i am guessing you would maybe cut out the pattern and then dye it and let it set overnight to dry before putting the holster together? I like to use a white or off-white thread with the Chestnut... so obviously i cant dye it after I put it all together.

Help guys and girls!! I'm tired of HARD to cut leather!! The dyes and finishes are my toughest parts... making, stitching and edging etc are easy for me.... I just need to get a set dye/finish and I'll be so happy!

Thanks for any help you can give!

[rccolt45]

[i only hand dye my stuff and so far have no problem cutting it with a razor knife.

As to color check out this web site http://turtlefeathers.net/text/angelus/dye.html they sell angles dyes which is great and comes in alot of colors.

I don't dip dye only because it seems like you would need alot of dye to do one holster so I can't help you there.

also I find its much easier to mold leather before its dyed - JMO

[Lucas]

I use veg tanned leather, and dye using fiebings via an airbrush prior to assembling/stitching. I get my best results this way, although I haven't tried dip dyeing.

[Sixer]

I use veg. tanned leather as well. Hand dye everything, but considering the dip dying.

One of the best purchases I made early on was a pair of shears for cutting leather and other heavy materials.

They handle up to 8/9 oz Herman Oak and go through 6/7 oz very easily. I can't remember the brand name, but I bought them at "Michael's" ( a local craft store ) for about $25. Definitely worth it

[woolfe]

I dip dye and immediately wipe off the excess with a rag. If need be I will touch up with an air brush, although it usually comes out nice enough I don't have to. I usually cut out items being dyed black prior to dying and brown or tan items after dying. Most of the time I will cut out the brown leathers while they are still damp, this makes it really easy to cut them out. I work with Fiebing black, USMC black, tan, light brown, and Cordovan. 6/7 oz Herman Oak leather. Leather from different places will be different when it comes to how hard it is to cut it will vary slightly even from hide to hide from the same tannery. I tried Wicket and Craig once and I found it to be harder to cut then Herman Oak.

[Dwight]

ShortBBL, . . . I'm one who makes first, . . . dyes later. I've done the drum dyed, . . . won't be going back there, . . . don't like the leather.

I've also dyed then assembled, . . . but most of the time, . . . it is assemble, . . . they dye. Lou Alessi was the other way around, . . . cut, dye, assemble.

Dyeing is not an art, . . . but it can make you pull your hair out trying to get just the right effect. I'm working on a single holster western rig right now that I want to do in a light grey color, . . . I got the color I want, . . . but all top coats I've tried have altered the color. I'll just keep messing with it until I get it.

I'm also in the process of building a spray booth, . . . got the gun & compressor, . . . gotta have a booth, . . . then the dyeing will get to be fun. Or maybe I'll really be bald, . . . whatever.

May God bless,

Dwight

[Garange]

I'm curious who makes their holsters using leather that is needing to be dyed? I've only made my sheaths and holsters using W&C Skirting mostly, drum dyed in chestnut and Black.

I LOVE the chestnut color and so if I used undyed leather, I have no clue how I could get such a great color as Feibings does not make chestnut dye!

I ask mostly because when I cut leather, even 6-7 oz stuff cuts SO hard that it takes 2 and sometime 3 passes. Today I cut some 14oz Skirting that I bought for welts and I was floored..... it cut like butter!! SO easy to cut!! The drum dyed stuff is so hard and undyed seems like it would be super nice to work with. i am thinking of trying it!

So... the questions...

If you use undyed leather, do you dip dye?

Is it possible to find a nice chestnut color somewhere?

When you dye the leather yourself, i am guessing you would maybe cut out the pattern and then dye it and let it set overnight to dry before putting the holster together? I like to use a white or off-white thread with the Chestnut... so obviously i cant dye it after I put it all together.

Help guys and girls!! I'm tired of HARD to cut leather!! The dyes and finishes are my toughest parts... making, stitching and edging etc are easy for me.... I just need to get a set dye/finish and I'll be so happy!

Thanks for any help you can give!

I occasionally dip dye after sanding and stitching the holster before molding with no big issues. Does take a little more work when molding.

[Shooter McGavin]

I've dip dyed using the Tandy water based Coal Black. I've also used a spong to apply that dye as well as any other I have used. But only dip dyed with the black.

Cut, stitch, wet, form, dye, hotbox, edge kote, sealant. Always in that order.

[katsass]

FWIW from the original grumpy old man:: I learned to always cut, then dye, then assemble. I use an airbrush to dye, and I use only Fiebing's Pro oil dyes. The only exception to this is when I do a project in black. For those items I assemble my project completely, then immerse in vinagaroon, then a soda solution and finally a clear water rinse. With the oil dyes I find that you (with a little experimentation) can mix and thin the stuff to make almost any shade of browns and tans you want. All of these are done with the airbrush and Fiebing's Pro oil dye. Mike

[TomLine]

I've tried dyes. I prefer neatsfoot oil sun tanned natural leather or leather that's been dyed in a tannery.