Tooled Purse

[hidepounder]

Hey Bobby... Of course, at risk of a little redundancy I'll say; awesome work! Would you mind sharing your antique methods with us? I've tried a few different methods and I'm not sure if I'm not applying enough oil or neat lac/ super sheen etc. but I always tend to get a little darker effect than I'd like and sometimes too much "character" if you will. I think the 'character may have been partially due to the fact I wasn't using the highest quality leather (just got my first large order of WC today after trying my first side of HO...excited to try it out!) I want to barely be able to tell there's added color, leaving only a light brown look and of course I know that antiquing really accents the tooling. Basically I want mine to look like yours!! HA HA. Of course I've got work on the actual tooling but until I can reach that caliber, at least I'd like the antique to look good!

Thank you for your guidance, you are clearly a mentor and an idol to many here!! It's awesome that artists like yourself are willing to share some of your secrets.

EDIT!! ~~ Okay... did some research and found some info on old posts. I see that you recommend cleaning with oxalic acid. I've got some and have used it but could you tell what dilution you use? I've read one teaspoon per cup of water but not sure where I read that!! What kind of gloves do you use for that, I've had it eat through a kitchen glove but I suppose I could have been rubbing too hard with an old glove???

I also see that you possibly oil before sealing with resist/sealant. What oil do you prefer? Is there a magic number of coats? I have been doing one light coat but how do I know what is too light? Does it make a huge difference?

I also see that you use Fiebings Paste and that all of your applications for sealant and paste are wool scrap as well as paste removal and buffing, got that part down!

Again...THANK YOU!

Okay! I'm going to try to do this in one breath!

When I'm finished tooling I clean the leather with oxalic acid mixed at 1 ounce per pint and after the leather has dried I dye the background with Fiebings spirit dye (I like cordovan, but no one else does!) then I apply a coat of oil...I'm currently using EVOO (that's Extra Virgin Olive Oil for those of you who don't watch Rachel Ray) and when that has thoroughly dried (the next morning) I apply a good coat of NeatLac (available only in my personal store) and when it has thoroughly dried I apply Fiebings Light Brown Antique paste with a piece of trimmed wool skin, which I remove immediately with additional clean pieces of wool skins until no more residue can be removed from the tooling at which time I apply a light coat of NeatLac as a final sealer!!!!!! Whew! Almost passed out! Hope this helps......

Bobby

[JLD]

Bob/Keith,

Thanks for the responses. Even though many of the sites no longer list 92/99 in their needle and thread combinations, I am glad to hear that people are still using it. In talking with several makers around here many of them have said that they were tending away from the 92/99 thread in favor of the 138 or the 69. They also were headed to all natural thread instead of white except for special items.

Bob,

I assume that Keith is referring to the LL needle point. There are also some others that come close as well. Take a look at that document that I sent you that shows the point, stitch, needle, slant, fill and set in a matrix format. There you can see what they look like as compared to your R, S and LR needles. You will notice on the stitch appearance that the LL is a straight seam with filled stitch holes as well as denoted in the stitch and fill columns.

In that you will also see the comparisons for nylon versus polyester (bonded and so forth).

On the compensating and making up for missed makers marks in the past. That is as good a reason as any.

Regards,

Ben

Hi Ben,

Is there any chance I could obtain a copy of the dovument that shows the point, stitch, needle, slant, fill and set in a matrix format. I am new to sewing and have all sorts of difficulties with needle and thread sizes. This document sounds like it could help.

Thanks in anticipation

Johanne

Edited March 16, 2011 by JLD

[gtwister09]

Bob,

Deep breaths...

Johanne...PM sent.

Regards,

Ben

[Patrice]

Wow. It's so beautiful. I hope your customer will be proud wearing it!

[Bar C Leather]

Muchas Gracias!!!

Thank You!!

Merci!!!

Very helpful. Not far off from what I had been doing recently with a few minor exceptions that might just do the trick!!!

Gotta love Rachael and her EVOO ;o) I've tried it before but don't use it regularly... have been contemplating replacing all my shop oil with it when I run out, I might just do that.

[terrymac]

Bob,

Where are you getting your oxalic acid? I've been to Lowe's and Home Depot, and they don't carry the stuff. Only one or two people had ever heard of it. As a side note, I've tried EVOO and ended up with a strange tint to the leather. I know it works for you, but not for me. Hae you tried Bee's Natural Saddle Oil? This stuff ranks up there with WD-40 and duct tape as indispensable. Doesn't darken and give a rich tone to the leather.

Thanks,

Terry

[hidepounder]

Bob,

Where are you getting your oxalic acid? I've been to Lowe's and Home Depot, and they don't carry the stuff. Only one or two people had ever heard of it. As a side note, I've tried EVOO and ended up with a strange tint to the leather. I know it works for you, but not for me. Hae you tried Bee's Natural Saddle Oil? This stuff ranks up there with WD-40 and duct tape as indispensable. Doesn't darken and give a rich tone to the leather.

Thanks,

Terry

Hi Terry -

I have never tried the Bee Natural so I can't comment on it. If I don't use EVOO I use Neatsfoot oil.

If your local Tandy doesn't have oxalic acid, I understand that you can get it at Home Depot or Lowes, however it is called wood bleach.

Hope this helps.....

Bobby