Holster Pattern Or Instructions

[JC Javelle]

Okay, here goes...

I am looking for a holster pattern for a Ruger KP90DC (P90 w/ decocker). Along the slide, from tip to hammer, is 7 inches long. Under the guide rod, from tip to trigger guard is just short of 3 inches.

Ideally, what I want is a shoulder holster made of two pieces of leather sewn together, rather than one piece folded over, for compactness. I would like for the holster to completely cover the trigger area and maybe even the mag release. My current Bianchi holster (came with the gun when purchased from previous owner) allows for me to pull the trigger while my gun is holstered and strapped. Thumb break strap is preferred.

If a pattern cannot be supplied, then I will take detailed instructions and wing it. I would appreciate any tips and instructions. I have already gone through the search engine and bookmarked some threads that I think may help too. I did sign up for a holster class, but a last minute family emergency prevented me from attending. I have possibly found a leather worker/ holster maker online who might be able to do this for me (finding custom holsters for Ruger P90's is difficult imho), if I do not mind dropping $120 dollars before tax and overseas shipping. Preferably, I would like for this to be a personal project, something I can work on myself. It would mean more to me to have completed it myself.

Thank you for reading, I look forward to any constructive replies.

Jessica

This picture is an example of my P90 w/ decocker:

[Tree Reaper]

Hi Jessica;

I always made my own patterns for guns, tracing around the outside being sure to leave extra for the filler strip along the edge.

Make it out of paper, you can make several patterns if you need in order to get the pattern you settle on.

The first one you make in all likelihood won't be perfect so don't expect it to be, just take your time and do the best you can.

Perfection comes with practice and you can always improve the results.

Look at all the holsters posted on this site for ideas.

Kevin

[TwinOaks]

Start by reading the threads you have bookmarked, there's a lot of very good info on this site. For your design, lay the pistol on a piece of cardboard (or scrap linoleum if you can swing it) trace the line of the pistol, then fold the cardboard up to about the halfway point ...or the center of the slide, longitudinally, and mark it. Lay the cardboard back out and measure it. That is the distance away from the pistol that your stitch line needs to be. It's okay to round up to an easy fraction and 3/8ths to 5/8ths is pretty common, depending on the thickness of the leather you are using. On paper, completely trace the gun and decide where you want each side of the holster mouth to be. It doesn't have to be a straight line (and probably shouldn't be), and should cover everything that needs to be covered. I'd like to suggest NOT covering the magazine release, because it's a little embarrassing to get a hug and have a mag drop free.....or lean against something with the same result. If you cover the release, the leather can act like a really big finger pressing on it - you could get pressure on it from up to an inch away and get an unintentional release. After you've designed the mouth of the holster (did you forget to include where the thumb break snap will be?) you need to add the 'wings' where it will attach to your shoulder rig. That can be vertical, horizontal, or somewhere in the middle, just try to find a balance point on the holster. When you've gotten that far, you should know where your thumb strap will be and it's time to design it. Trace the mouth of the holster from the outside piece of leather onto another sheet. You'll be making an additional piece (mouth band) shaped like a "T" or an "L" depending on where the strap will be. Draw parallel lines for your strap...and leave it longer than you think you'll need. It needs to a little wider than the snap you'll be using. The tracing of the holster mouth should match the edge of the mouth band. Transfer the pattern, cut, color, stitch, mold, seal and dry....and there's your holster.

P.S. Get enough leather to do at least two, because you may need it....hope not, but you might. And if you don't need it, well, you gotta have leather for the matching mag carrier anyway.

[JC Javelle]

I have an entire length of cow belly to play with, so I am not worried about perfection. I know it won't be my finest piece of art work.

So winging it I am. I have just a couple more tools to collect before I start, but I'll try to post results as I go.

Anyone else feel free to keep posting comments, suggestions, technique, etc. 'Tis appreciated.

[Clintock]

Got asked to make a holster for this gun earlier this week. Anyone have the pattern yet? 

[Dwight]

JC Javelle, . . . and Clintock, . . . PM me with full email addresses, . . . I'll send you some information.

The shoulder holster of this type I make is very comfortable, but takes a WHILE to get done.  Don't be in a hurry.

It also is a muzzle pointing down, . . . I will not make or supply patterns for horizontal or armpit pointing shoulder holsters, . . . personal rule.

It needs to be made out of back leather at worst, . . . double shoulder leather preferably.

It carries the option for one or two (preferably) magazines carried on the off side.

May God bless,

Dwight

[ComputerDoctor]

My first couple of holster's were made for Revolver's, both snub nose, a 38 and 357, that I carry concealed or at times 'in the open,' which is legal in Missouri.

All I did was cut a large enough piece and folded it around the weapon's, made faint lines with a #2 pencil and cut and trimmed until it looked and fit good. I used a one piece fold over design and glued the perimeter on one side and then sewed it. It turned out nice but then I realized that all the other stuff I wanted to do such as a belt loop, top strap to hold the weapon in and custom tooling is much, much harder when the holster is almost 'done!' 

My third holster was for a compact 9 mm, Springfield, semi-auto and having learned from past mistakes, I tried to use my brain in a logical way BEFORE I started cutting, gluing, riveting, sewing, dying, finishing etc-etc: Step 1, 2, 3, 4 in sequence sure works better that jumping a few steps!:) This holster is as nice as anything I've seen:)

I tried the 'wet molding method' on another 38 revolver I had and after I soaked the leather for an hour or so, it was as pliable as thick cloth, and I formed it around the 38, clamped it in place, to perfectly mold my creation and then left it for a 3 day weekend:) When I returned to my IT-Computer business and looked at my cration, it was dry and formed and really beautiful------but, when I opened it up, I found a partially rusted pistol staring unhappily up at me:(  Lesson learned!

I had went to HOBBY LOBBY to peruse their 'Leather craft' area and found LOTS of great stuff at much lower prices than my normal supplier, even with my great 'Military discount.' I bought a lot of stuff to add to my growing inventory and as I was about to leave, I spied their 'Kit' section and saw a Semi-automatic holster kit, all ready to be assembled @ a remarkable $10 bucks or so:) I bought it too!

I bring this kit up because I got all of my pistol inventory out, except for the long barrel revolvers, and found that this kit with maybe just a little modifying would fit all of my pistols.

I didn't buy the kit to 'USE' as a Holster but to use as a nice and thick Pattern! I used it to make 3 identical cuts and I couldn't be happier.

Sorry to use so much 'bandwidth,' but maybe this answer will help:)

Sam