Sewing With A Diamond Awl

[Mojo66]

I was told to push my awl all the way through the leather when hand stitching with a diamond awl, but I noticed it looks neater when I only push it some of the way through, what's best? Is there a reason for pushing it all the way through?

[Tree Reaper]

Hi Mojo;

Stohlman suggests the smallest hole possible.

It might be better to awl from both sides if you are having a problem or awl all the way through from the back side only.

Large holes give the stitching a bad appearance according to Stohlman.

Kevin.

[TwinOaks]

The important thing is consistency. Same depth of awl puncture on each stitch. You can control this by making little washers from the pieces when you punch holes. Just stick them on your awl and push them down to the ferrule. Add or remove as needed. Always leave at least one on there though, so the ferrule never contacts the leather- it can 'dent' the leather or sometimes cause a discoloration.

[lazybum]

Nowadays i push the awl all the way through from BOTH sides. I find that if I don't do that, there will be bunching up of leather on the side that I don't push the awl from when I stitch, resulting in ugly stitching on that side. I push the awl all the way though so that I can achieve consistency easily. If you find your holes too big you can try buying a smaller sized awl blade.

[Mojo66]

Thanks for the replies, there's no problem pushing the awl through, but using a washer sounds like a good idea though, I've been using my finger but that smarts a bit after a while!

[RandyScott]

I use the 'leather washers', flat spot on the awl handle to prevent it rolling off the table, flat spot on the handle by the ferrule for my thumb to 'index' the awl handle, shortened the awl handle till the butt of the handle nestles in my palm, back up the leather where the awl will exit with a large cork.. it provides a nice solid surface and prevents self impalement, and rest the fore finger on the awl blade so that no more than 1/2" of blade is beyond the finger tip. Punch and control the depth with the finger tip. Adjust the 'depth limiter' to achieve the proper sized hole for the needle/thread combination. I use 18/5 at 5 or 6 SPI for my sheaths. If you cut a notch in the cork, you can observe the awl point before it completely penetrates and adjust to put the awl point in your stitch groove.

[CustomDoug]

I use the 'leather washers', flat spot on the awl handle to prevent it rolling off the table, flat spot on the handle by the ferrule for my thumb to 'index' the awl handle, shortened the awl handle till the butt of the handle nestles in my palm, back up the leather where the awl will exit with a large cork.. it provides a nice solid surface and prevents self impalement, and rest the fore finger on the awl blade so that no more than 1/2" of blade is beyond the finger tip. Punch and control the depth with the finger tip. Adjust the 'depth limiter' to achieve the proper sized hole for the needle/thread combination. I use 18/5 at 5 or 6 SPI for my sheaths. If you cut a notch in the cork, you can observe the awl point before it completely penetrates and adjust to put the awl point in your stitch groove.

I like this idea, are you using some kind of cork block? Securing it in the stitching horse with the leather.... or holding it in your hand as you go?

[tonyc1]

It would be better to have different sized awl blades for different size thread!

Tony.

[RandyScott]

I like this idea, are you using some kind of cork block? Securing it in the stitching horse with the leather.... or holding it in your hand as you go?

I use a stitching pony (Chuck Burrows or WRTC style) that I made. The edge of the sheath could be two to four layers of 7-8 or 8-9 leather and the leather tends to want to work up and out unless I tighten the jaws very tight, so I back up the stitch line with the cork held in my hand.. just a cork from a wine bottle. I grind two sides flat (a right angle), one to rest on the jaw and the other just beside where the awl point should exit. As the awl point approaches the rear side of the leather it will create a little bump indicating where it will exit. If not correct I will adjust the point to hit the stitch groove or stitch line I want and complete the punch. Up around the mouth of the sheath, where the welt and edge are thickest, they are also increasing in thickness, therefore not flat and it is harder to get the awl through. Here I use a cork that I cut a notch into it, this provides more area to support the leather as the awl point approaches the back side of the leather.

Just reread the above, I also remove the wine stained portion of the cork, ususally just a tad on the end.

By using my finger tip to control depth of the awl blade exit, I control the size of the hole, especially important when back stitching at the thickest portion of the welt.

It would be better to have different sized awl blades for different size thread!

Perhaps true for others, however all I use is 18/5 cord.

[Vikefan]

I use a stitching pony (Chuck Burrows or WRTC style) that I made. The edge of the sheath could be two to four layers of 7-8 or 8-9 leather and the leather tends to want to work up and out unless I tighten the jaws very tight, so I back up the stitch line with the cork held in my hand.. just a cork from a wine bottle. I grind two sides flat (a right angle), one to rest on the jaw and the other just beside where the awl point should exit. As the awl point approaches the rear side of the leather it will create a little bump indicating where it will exit. If not correct I will adjust the point to hit the stitch groove or stitch line I want and complete the punch. Up around the mouth of the sheath, where the welt and edge are thickest, they are also increasing in thickness, therefore not flat and it is harder to get the awl through. Here I use a cork that I cut a notch into it, this provides more area to support the leather as the awl point approaches the back side of the leather.

Just reread the above, I also remove the wine stained portion of the cork, ususally just a tad on the end.

By using my finger tip to control depth of the awl blade exit, I control the size of the hole, especially important when back stitching at the thickest portion of the welt.

Perhaps true for others, however all I use is 18/5 cord.

I found your information very imformative, but I would like to see pictures along with what you're describing if you have any?

Thanks,

Vikefan

[RandyScott]

I found your information very imformative, but I would like to see pictures along with what you're describing if you have any?

I'll be glad to get up some photos.. as soon as I get the camera back from my granddaughter. She borrowed it to take photos of some kittens that she is fostering and using the photos in an attempt to get them adopted. I am hoping to get the camera this weekend, so I should have something in about a week.