After Dyeing, What Are You Using For A Tough, Water Resilient Finish On Holsters & Sheaths?

[The Grizzly]

As much as I like this hot wax finish, I'm always open to other ideas to try.

What do you guys like to use as a tough, water repelling finish on your holsters and sheaths? Looking for something that helps resist scratching.

Thanks!!

[DCKNIVES]

I was always a proponent of Tan-kote and Leather Sheen, but a saddlemaker turned me onto Skidmores Leather Cream and I love the finish I get.Dave

[The Grizzly]

Dave, does it go on directly after dyeing and is it a final finish? Does it soften the leather up any? I like the stiffness this hot wax gives the sheaths, but I think that might be where my scratching issue is coming from...maybe they are too stiff, the outside too hard.

[Shooter McGavin]

I've been using a mixture of 2 parts water, 2 parts satin sheen, and 1 part super sheen. not too dull, not too glossy. I sponge it on and let it cure. Usually 2 or 3 applications about 15 minutes apart. It does seem to stiffen up the leather a bit which is good.

I've been messing around lately with a cheap airbrush as, especially on black, I would still get streaking now and then.

But I did just purchase some 600 and 610 made from Angelus that I'm going to try and see how I like them. Slowly moving away from the Tandy line of chemicals.

[The Grizzly]

Shooter: How resilient is the finish itself when cured? Does it resist minor scratching? Does it allow the application of conditioners (is it permeable)? Is the finish fairly water resistant?

I am also thinking about getting a cheap air brush to experiment with. I love lighter dyed items with darker tones laid in towards the edges. I have a nice compressor and tank, perfect for airbrushing, that I haven't even taken out of the box yet...I got it at Lowe's at Christmas time 2 years ago when I was wanting to get into actual artistic airbrushing.

[Dwight]

I've used a number of different finishes, . . . I have 3 I really like.

50/50 by weight, . . . virgin bees wax and neetsfoot oil, . . . melted together in a crock pot of water (wax & oil in a jar), . . . applied like paste shoe polish, . . . takes a lot of work, . . . makes a very beautiful, soft, durable finish, . . . if scratched, . . . is easily repaired.

Bagkote, . . . it is a good finish, . . . use it for a softer finish on holsters and sheaths. Applied with a brush, . . . watered down to the max, . . . I think it is 40% water.

Resolene, . . . prime choice for a high gloss, hard finish. Applied with a bristle brush, . . . liberally brushed on, . . . 50/50 cut with tap water. Has a UV blocker, water repellent, scratch resistant, my favorite.

May God bless,

Dwight

[DCKNIVES]

I apply Skidmore's after the dye has dried fully and been rubbed down, then it is the final finish.Holsters and sheaths are just as firm as before, that was my main concern also before I had tried it.My mentor a master leathersmith advised me strongly against using hot wax preparations, and I think you'll find few professional sheathmakers that use them.I mean they are messy, time consuming, and don't offer any more than you can get from a commercial topcoat..Dave

[The Grizzly]

Dave, thanks for the info.

Really, the only reason I thought to try the hot waxing was that I already had the wax/oil on hand so there was no cost out of pocket.

One thing I noticed with this last sheath, is that when I applied the wax mixture to the inside of the sheath and it soaked in, it reduced the 'grip' the sheath has on the knife. I have to say, I'm not a big fan of that. I wet form the sheath and my knives usually 'pop' into place but are also held by the friction of the leather. This last one pops, but there is not much grip (this really only matters on pouch sheaths).

Dave, what do you finish the inside of your sheaths with?

[Bronson]

I was once advised by one of the pro holster makers here on LW.net that his process went like this...

1) Dip the holster in dye. Let it dry then buff the holster.

2) Dip the holster in Resolene. Let it dry then it's done.

Bronson

Edited March 29, 2011 by Bronson

[MADMAX22]

I dont do alot of holsters but everything I make including sheaths, belts, and what not I have gone with the natural wax finishes. Primarily because if anyone cares enough they can clean there leather properly and reapply as necessary and have a nice long lasting good looking piece of leather work. I use primarily sno-seal. Others similar are montana pitch blend, I think skidmores is similar but have not used that.

I also occasionally use my own mix of bees wax, parafin wax, neatsfoot oil. Its just a little harder to apply but protects very well.

[The Grizzly]

Ive been thinking about giving MPB and Sno-seal a try, hear lots of good things about them

[TwinOaks]

One thing about the sno-seal is that you need to follow the directions about heating the leather before applying or rub in really well..... Using a heat gun works just as well to melt it into the leather.

[The Grizzly]

Thats how I work the beeswax/paraffin/neatsfoot mix I've been using. Prior to that, I was using mink oil in the same manner. I actually remember, as a small boy, my dad having me put mink oil on his work boots after they had been sitting by the fireplace getting warm. Apparently the ol' man knew what he was doing after all