Large Handwheel On 31-15?

[Jimbob]

Hi everybody.....

Just trying to set up my new Singer 31-15.....it has an unusually small hand wheel (to me...) on it?!?

Wonder if Ican change it to a much bigger one for more hand control and lesser speed.

Did they all (31 series) come with the same size wheel or are there different hand wheels out there....?

Just wondering, if possible I like to go bigger.

After market or original parts?

thanks for the info........

Aloha

james

[neelsaddlery]

I could be wrong, but I do not know of a larger wheel that Singer made specifically for the 3115. I have heard stories of people taking pulleys and putting them on machines (like pulleys for lawnmowers, automobiles, or industrial machinery) and using them. You could also try taking a pulley from another model altogther and either making a sleeve for it if it is too big or machining the hole out if it is too small.

[cdthayer]

Did they all (31 series) come with the same size wheel or are there different hand wheels out there....?

james

Hi James,

There were two sizes of hand wheels that came out on the 31-15s. The Singer parts manual shows a large 6-spoke wheel #2135 and a smaller 5-spoke wheel #12358. I'm not sure if they are readily interchangeable, but I only see one hand wheel collar in the parts book.

I have two 31-15s, one with each size hand wheel. In appears that the older model 31-15s that originally came out in a treadle stand or a convertible treadle/electric stand may have had the larger wheel to accommodate treadle users that started the machine with a hand motion. I haven't actually tried swapping the hand wheels on my 31-15s, but I know the larger one won't work on a Singer 96-40, because I did try that.

CD in Oklahoma

thayerrags.com

[Wizcrafts]

What I see in the photos of the two wheels is that while the hand wheel is larger on one, the pulley isn't. That means that it will be easier to hand wheel the machine, but there wouldn't be any speed reduction, nor torque multiplication, if one swapped wheels.

The only way to get slower speeds, with more torque, is to do one of the following changes:

• Change the original clutch motor pulley to a much smaller diameter pulley (with a shorter belt).
• Buy a speed reducing double or triple pulley to go between the motor and the machine. They mount under the table and add one more v-belt. They typically yield about 3:1 speed reduction and the same amount of torque multiplication.
• Replace the motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor (& shorter v-belt). It has built in 3:1 speed reduction gears and a 2" pulley.

[KAYAK45]

What I see in the photos of the two wheels is that while the hand wheel is larger on one, the pulley isn't. That means that it will be easier to hand wheel the machine, but there wouldn't be any speed reduction, nor torque multiplication, if one swapped wheels.

The only way to get slower speeds, with more torque, is to do one of the following changes:

• Change the original clutch motor pulley to a much smaller diameter pulley (with a shorter belt).
• Buy a speed reducing double or triple pulley to go between the motor and the machine. They mount under the table and add one more v-belt. They typically yield about 3:1 speed reduction and the same amount of torque multiplication.
• Replace the motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor (& shorter v-belt). It has built in 3:1 speed reduction gears and a 2" pulley.

Hey Wiz. I also would like a larger wheel on my 31-15 and I already have the great, great servo. But I do start all runs with a hand reverse stitch and would like more hand control, only. Its not a speed thing for me!

Do you know how I build a new wheel and gear to get what I want? Or has somebody out-there done it before and could share?

[Wizcrafts]

Hey Wiz. I also would like a larger wheel on my 31-15 and I already have the great, great servo. But I do start all runs with a hand reverse stitch and would like more hand control, only. Its not a speed thing for me!

Do you know how I build a new wheel and gear to get what I want? Or has somebody out-there done it before and could share?

Coitently! Read this thread to see how one member slowed down and maxed the torque on his upholstery machine, plus gained a huge handwheel.

[Jimbob]

thanks guys.....

I have a Singer 211-155 on a table already with a servo motor from Toledo Bob.....the 31-15 will fit right in that cut out,,,so all I do is change head if needed.

So speed is no problem, but hand control for extreme curves.....sharp turnes and little detail stitching....back tacking...

That bigger hand wheel on one of the other model 31-15 seems to be the trick, I am sure I can make that fit!

Or find me a large Handwheel from a totally different machine,,,,? and make it fit???

Where could I find a larger handwheel, any sugestions...

As always thank you for the input and info from all.

Greetings

Jimbob:yeah:

my sewing machines:

Adler 105-64

Singer 211-155

Singer 31-15

Singer 99 handwheel mint

Singer 19-51 mint

Singer 188K in works

[Wizcrafts]

I'd wager that "Toledo Bob" probably has the large 6 spoke handwheels for the 31-15 machines. If not, he can find another wheel with the same inside shaft diameter to mount it onto a 31 class machine.

Edited March 31, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[Anne Bonnys Locker]

The 31 and numerous other machines are still made in India so parts should be no problem. Unfortunately I have found dealing with suppliers on the sub-continent to be problematic.

[Trox]

Hi Wiz!

Did you pimp any of your machineswith a bigger pulley? Or do you know of anybody else doing it the same way as the Harnessman. What about after marked parts for big heavy Adler and Singer stitchers. Like the Ferdinand Bull did with some stock sewing machines, converted them to Bull Machines. With among other parts; bigger hand wheels. Anybody knows where to get parts like that? Did he make those big hand wheels himself or ordered them from Asia. Is it any suppliers selling stuff like that?

Trox

What I see in the photos of the two wheels is that while the hand wheel is larger on one, the pulley isn't. That means that it will be easier to hand wheel the machine, but there wouldn't be any speed reduction, nor torque multiplication, if one swapped wheels.

The only way to get slower speeds, with more torque, is to do one of the following changes:

• Change the original clutch motor pulley to a much smaller diameter pulley (with a shorter belt).
• Buy a speed reducing double or triple pulley to go between the motor and the machine. They mount under the table and add one more v-belt. They typically yield about 3:1 speed reduction and the same amount of torque multiplication.
• Replace the motor with a SewPro 500GR servo motor (& shorter v-belt). It has built in 3:1 speed reduction gears and a 2" pulley.

[Wizcrafts]

No, I don't swap wheels. I tend to buy machines that have the best wheel to start with. But, if I need another hand wheel, I'll call "Toledo Bob."

[Trox]

No, I don't swap wheels. I tend to buy machines that have the best wheel to start with. But, if I need another hand wheel, I'll call "Toledo Bob."

No thank you; I will not call him. I am still waiting for some small parts that I paid for last year. He says it lost in the mail. And I he lost a customer I am afraid.

[stanly]

harnessman

Posted 29 August 2010 - 07:27 AM

Stocksuspension, on 28 August 2010 - 11:05 PM, said:were did you buy that pulley?

"Hi

It is a Hubless weld on stamped steel pulley used around here in Wisconsin on farm equipment. I bought the pulley at Mills Fleet Farm, the local farm supply store. You can also find them at any farm implement dealer. If you do not have a farm implement store handy you can probably find them on line at TSC (tractor supply co.)"

You know I liked this idea too, so I went down to my local farm supply store and found th aisle with these.

First problem was 3/8" belt is not most common, but even though my Monster Pulley is a 4/8" because they made it wo/ a bottom a 3/8" belt rides lower in grove, but works (means I may not have to change my motor pully to 4/8" after all).

Now the question is: how slow is too slow? (I will have a 2 1/2" motor pulley driving 11" when this is over)

a 11" instead of 10" because of the low grove thing + cheaper to switch the smaller motor pulleys

Trox: I'm still working out details like spacer and belt sizes, mostly due to stocking level zero of some items at farm store.

Edited May 18, 2011 by stanly

[KAYAK45]

Hey guys. I put the 11" on my 111w155 and its great for hand control. I've got Bob's servo and it too is a great way to control a 31-15.

The problem I foresee, though minor, is the shaft size on the 30-. It' different than the 111w. I don't remember which way. In addition to welding a hub onto the pulley you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match.

It will give you 30- a great speed change!

[stanly]

Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo)

Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)?

several trips to outlying farm stores later:

11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing).

4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt).

Speeds table:

(calculated for a 1750 rpm motor)

2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys)

2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel)

2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11")

5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?)

KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match."

DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore.

(hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all)

[KAYAK45]

OK Stanley, reamed, drilled, holed, or jest made the right size by a machine guy. Of which I'm Not! LOL

Jest gitterdone..

[Jimbob]

Yo, Anyone: is 58 stitches going to be just crazy slow? still faster than comfortable? (nonservo)

Anyone who handwheels: will this pulley work for this too (thinking gloves)?

several trips to outlying farm stores later:p

11" weld-on pulley, 1/2bore - has 1" hub thickness (seems abut right for spacing).

4L belt - riding low in the 11" pulley, riding high in the orig. 2 1/2 motor pulley (made for a 3L belt).

Speeds table:

(calculated for a 1750 rpm motor)

2 1/2" drives 3" = 1250 (original pulleys)

2 1/2 > 11" = 92 (orig pulley + monster wheel)

2" > 11" = 58 (max reduction w/ 11")

5" > 11" = 365 (step up speed w/ 11"?)

KAYAK45: "you will have to get the smaller hub than your shaft and have it drilled to match."

DRILLED? - Ream the hub for better fit, more concentric bore.

(hubs in my stores only seem to be in 1/8 increments....if they had them all)

Well.....all gud feedback here.....guess now instead buying

A new sewing machine soon, I will have to save up

Money to buy a small metal lace.....boy would that be the trick...

Making ur own handwheel and hub! Then make small screwak

And minor parts.....the possibilities are almost endless....haha...

Just a thought...

James

[stanly]

Well.....all gud feedback here.....guess now instead buying

A new sewing machine soon, I will have to save up

Money to buy a small metal lace.....boy would that be the trick...

Making ur own handwheel and hub! Then make small screwak

And minor parts.....the possibilities are almost endless....haha...

Just a thought...

James

Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel.

As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.)

Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here).

[Trox]

Great stuff,let`s see some pictures

Uknow before I came across the weld-on hub was thinking about bolting through the 3 holes in end of stock pulley/handwheel.

As I was looking at small steering wheels for handwheel it occured that for just hand wheel could turn one out of wood. (thought it would be cool looking and unique.)

Don't know if this is right name, but seems like u could take "floor flange" and a piece of pipe, then chuck the whole mess is a drill to do crude turning. Yeah, I'd suggest supporting the ends with drilled blocks because there could be some movement otherwise (good for drill here).

[boyjuki]

The 31 class machine have a counterwieght on the flywheel. It's barely noticable. A regular pully will be OK as long as your not running it to fast. Best thing maybe to do is mount something on the current flywheel, so machine doesn't vibrate.

[MartyS]

But I do start all runs with a hand reverse stitch

hi kayak, can you explain your "hand reverse stitch" thanks M

By the way since this forum can not search for 31-15 because there are not enough characters in "31" or "15 then try google search <leatherworker.net 31-15> that works much better than the forum search

[KAYAK45]

Sure! Start your first stitch in one stitch to the outside and stop. Raise your needle say ~ 1/2 way and reverse you material. to go forward. RESULT = lock stitch.

How about that?

Kevin