Members Happy Hooligan Posted July 13, 2011 Members Report Posted July 13, 2011 I'm going to start waxing my own linen thread and have read about mixing Beeswax and Rosin together. The only Rosin I've been able to find is made for Violins and such... anyone using this? Also it comes in light to dark... I assume the light would be the way to go as dark would make the wax darker... correct? Quote
Members jimsaddler Posted July 14, 2011 Members Report Posted July 14, 2011 That is the same Resin. Use the light and crush it. Kind Regards. Quote
KAYAK45 Posted July 14, 2011 Report Posted July 14, 2011 Try... Thehcc.org ...for wax or COAD recipe. You will need some oil also. Quote Once believed in GOD and the DOllAR...... Hello God!
Members ChuckBurrows Posted July 14, 2011 Members Report Posted July 14, 2011 Actually either the light or dark will work - just depends on the look you want - Asphaltum was added to the mix in the past ot get black thread. As for oil - you can or not - I have yet to find any real differnce between the two mixes and have been making my own for 40+ years......... another source for rosin is the Brewer's pitch sold by James Townsend and Sons......http://jas-townsend.com/product_info.php?products_id=373 a pound will last most folks a long time and can also be added to dubbin if you want to make your own blend similar to Montana Pitchblend for finishing....... Quote Wild Rose Trading Company Two roads diverged in a wood, and I, I took the one less traveled by, And that has made all the difference.
Moderator Art Posted July 14, 2011 Moderator Report Posted July 14, 2011 I use the rosin that pro rodeo guys use for bull riding. The old shoemakers used to use a mix of Stockholm Tar/Rosin/Beeswax and sometimes a very little Whale Oil (they make that synthetically now), it comes out pretty coffee colored, but if you pull it a lot it gets lighter to an amber or dark tan. The Stockholm Tar was used as an antimicrobial/antifungal to keep the linen from rotting. Since the only person who will see the inseaming thread in one of my shoes is me or a shoe repair guy after I am gone, I use 130 lb test IFGA braided Dacron fishing line; won't rot, doesn't mind salt water, doesn't stretch, isn't sharp, I've never broken it, and is relatively inexpensive. I use the rosin/beeswax which seems to stick just fine. I also have this 40 lb block of beeswax that I haven't even made a dent in. There are so many differences in components that you just have to work with the formula. Taking the Stockholm Tar out of the equation sure makes it a lot easier though. That was probably more than you wanted to know, but I don't have a blog and don't want one. Art I'm going to start waxing my own linen thread and have read about mixing Beeswax and Rosin together. The only Rosin I've been able to find is made for Violins and such... anyone using this? Also it comes in light to dark... I assume the light would be the way to go as dark would make the wax darker... correct? Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members Happy Hooligan Posted July 14, 2011 Author Members Report Posted July 14, 2011 thanks everyone.. I ordered some of the violin rosin since it's super cheap to give it a go. I don't figure I need that much anyway since I make small projects, but I wanted to do it right and make it myself. Quote
Moderator Art Posted July 14, 2011 Moderator Report Posted July 14, 2011 There is a difference in rosin color. The lighter colored resin is harder (collected in Winter/Spring) as opposed to the darker or Black (collected in Summer/Fall). The Black can be quite sticky and melts at a considerably lower temperature than the Amber. I don't know anything about Violin Rosin, but I suspect they enhance it somewhat for function, but Black is Black and will be softer and stickier and will crumble a bit. Bull Riders rosin costs about $7-$10 a pound and is pretty much unadulterated rosin (from pine or fur tree resin). Everybody used to use Black, but it gets on everything and is hard to clean, so most riders use Amber. Rosin can be in powder or chunks (or both?). You can make powder by crushing chunks, and chunks by melting powder. Art thanks everyone.. I ordered some of the violin rosin since it's super cheap to give it a go. I don't figure I need that much anyway since I make small projects, but I wanted to do it right and make it myself. Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members amuckart Posted July 14, 2011 Members Report Posted July 14, 2011 Step by step with pictures: my shoemaking wax instructions Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
Moderator Art Posted July 14, 2011 Moderator Report Posted July 14, 2011 Hi Al, Excellent tutorial. Good to see you didn't go into the Stockholm Tar recipe, I did it once for some reason I can't fathom, but never again. I have a little over 3/4 gallon (or more) of Stockholm tar if anyone is interested. Again, best tutorial I have seen. Thanks, Art Step by step with pictures: my shoemaking wax instructions Quote For heaven's sakes pilgrim, make yourself a strop!
Members amuckart Posted July 14, 2011 Members Report Posted July 14, 2011 Thanks Art, I appreciate that. I have been down the Stockholm tar path, I just haven't written it up yet. I'm still looking for a workable black wax recipe that's doable with commonly available materials. It's difficult now that good genuine pine pitch is so rare, but I'm fairly close now. Quote -- Al. Medieval Stuff: http://wherearetheelves.net Non-Medieval, including my machines: http://alasdair.muckart.net
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