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I've tried eco flo and what I believe is fiebing spirit dye. It appears impossible to not get lines where you have to overlap the dye with the daubers. Is there a way to fix this? Also is the oil dyes any different in terms of how they dye and how are they better?

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I've tried eco flo and what I believe is fiebing spirit dye. It appears impossible to not get lines where you have to overlap the dye with the daubers. Is there a way to fix this? Also is the oil dyes any different in terms of how they dye and how are they better?

nervjiggy, First, I will not use eco-flo dyes. I have never been able to achieve decent (IMO) coverage with it. I use only Fiebing's pro oil or spirit dyes. Angelus dyes are also good. When using a dauber, or any mechanical way to apply dye, you'll need multiple applications ...in different directions. What I mean is start by going from top to bottom on your leather piece, allow to set up for a few minutes then go back and apply at 90 degrees to the first application. After that, at 45 degrees to the last and finally at the opposite 45 degree angle. This usually gives pretty decent coverage. If it would be too dark, thin the dye with the appropriate solvent ... usually denatured alcohol. (with eco stuff, it would be water) I use an inexpensive airbrush to apply my dye, it's more expedient and the coverage is much more even.

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Another option to try (I hate daubers except for edges) is to use a scrap of sheepskin with the fuzz trimmed down to about 1/4". Saturate the sheepskin with dye and rub it into the leather using circular motions -wax on, wax off- to avoid lines. As katsas mentioned, going in multiple overlapping directions (up, down, let, right, diagonal) also helps quite a bit.

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I've tried eco flo and what I believe is fiebing spirit dye. It appears impossible to not get lines where you have to overlap the dye with the daubers. Is there a way to fix this? Also is the oil dyes any different in terms of how they dye and how are they better?

I don't believe that "daubers" were ever designed to apply dye to leather, other than to the edges of leather. Large areas of leather act like a big sponge and that first touch of the dauber sucks way too much dye and makes a spot or line that is too hard to blend out. You wind up soaking the leather with dye to try to match the coverage. Either dip the whole project in the dye or airbrush the dye for an even coat. Even a very large paint brush (4-6") could be used to flood the dye on, if too large to dip.

I've never gotten good results with a dauber on large areas of leather. They are great for belt edges and even then if you set fire to them (the wool ones) and put then out quickly, they form a better dauber that has better control for edge dying.

Bob Stelmack

www.pslac.org

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The new Professional line of waterbased dyes are meant to be used for an even coat - from what I've seen so far, they are very nice - just a bit dark, so I am going to have to play with diluting them.

However, the solution to your problem is quite simple: You have to saturate the leather with the dye to get an even coverage, no matter what dye you use or even what applicator. You want to imitate dipping the leather in the dye. If THAT gives you too dark a result, then you DILUTE the dye, either with water or alcohol, depending on the dye, but you still saturate the leather with the diluted dye.

I've tried eco flo and what I believe is fiebing spirit dye. It appears impossible to not get lines where you have to overlap the dye with the daubers. Is there a way to fix this? Also is the oil dyes any different in terms of how they dye and how are they better?

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Leerwerker is very much correct when doing the background or overall color. That first part of color you put on has to go over the whole thing, if a edge starts to dry which will happen on initial dry leather it will leave a line persay. I dont use the daubers anymore. I use the foam paint brushes. They can hold a pretty good amount of dye and last a while.

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