Sewing Around Corners

[MADMAX22]

Sometimes you can get away with having the bottom of the gusset (bottom of the bag area) wider then taper it up as you go. Now that I think about it cant remember if this helps with the corners or not. I need to do a wider array of leather work because I keep forgetting what helped me in the past lol.

[leathercrafter]

Sometimes you can get away with having the bottom of the gusset (bottom of the bag area) wider then taper it up as you go. Now that I think about it cant remember if this helps with the corners or not. I need to do a wider array of leather work because I keep forgetting what helped me in the past lol.

i have built several bag over the years with gussets the way i do mine is i build all mine out of 2to3 or 3to 4 oz lining leather, i wet the top with a sponge then use barge cement along the edgeof both pieces to be glued together. let it dry for a minute then put the two pieces together and form the edges with my hands. then with the leather still damp i sew the two together. i have several items in my photo album that i have done this way for your viewing. hope this helps john

[horsewreck]

Just a thought, when I am trying to make a project for the first time I like to make small moc-ups of any part I think will be tough to do so I don't screw up a bunch of leather cutting out the whole project and then sticking it in the stitcher and praying for a good outcome. Try going to your scrap bin and build a few corners as you would like them to be, then take what you have learned to the BIG leather and sew it up. You can try different radius corners and different leathers until you get it right on small scraps of leather and you will always end up with a result you can be proud of. I hope this is of some help to you........ Jeff

[Scary Leatherworks]

Well I tried the method we talked about and all I can say is luckily this is my prototype so I don't mind messing it up while I'm figuring this out. The results were less than stellar as you can see from the images below. Unless I'm really doing something wrong (other than my poor sewing skills) I'm still unable to get the corners smooth enough to sew straight and there is no way that I could do a double seam on this as moving further into the leather around the curves would be impossible.

Any other ideas or suggestions?

this may be a little help http://leatherworker...?showtopic=2161

I made one of these bags with a middle divider and 2 gussets but I stitched it all by hand. I didn't wet from any of it and I used veg tan for the entire bag. 4/5oz for front and back 3/4 for gussets.

Edited October 22, 2011 by Scary Leatherworks

[leatherkind]

I like making bags out of thick leather and I had troubles with corners too.

The leather is rather stiff and hard to handle. Here is how I stitch gussets to the middle compartment separator of a handbag.

The bag is made out of 2mm oil tanned leather.

1. Prepare the edge of the pieces for the glue (this is oil tan and glue will not adhere if you do not rough up the surface)

2. Start gluing the gussets. As you approach the round corner fold the edge of the gusset and then while folded bend it to mimic the turn. I do it quite hard so the leather flexes, becomes more pliable and takes needed shape.

3. Glue pieces together and secure them with clips. (i should have wrapped them with something... they leave some impressions)

4. Stitch it all.

I hope it helps.

Equipment and materials used:

2mm oil tan leather, Cowboy 4500 sewing machine, round punch http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=7801&view=findpost&p=216263, needle #25, bonded nylon #346, fabri-tack glue, rotary tool with sandpaper cylinder.

[EdwardHBLW]

I like making bags out of thick leather and I had troubles with corners too.

The leather is rather stiff and hard to handle. Here is how I stitch gussets to the middle compartment separator of a handbag.

The bag is made out of 2mm oil tanned leather.

1. Prepare the edge of the pieces for the glue (this is oil tan and glue will not adhere if you do not rough up the surface)

2. Start gluing the gussets. As you approach the round corner fold the edge of the gusset and then while folded bend it to mimic the turn. I do it quite hard so the leather flexes, becomes more pliable and takes needed shape.

3. Glue pieces together and secure them with clips. (i should have wrapped them with something... they leave some impressions)

4. Stitch it all.

I hope it helps.

Equipment and materials used:

2mm oil tan leather, Cowboy 4500 sewing machine, round punch http://leatherworker...ndpost&p=216263, needle #25, bonded nylon #346, fabri-tack glue, rotary tool with sandpaper cylinder.

Am I seeing that photo correctly in guessing that you have the flatbed attachment on there? Seems like it'd be easier with just the cylinder arm, no? Seeing the photo is reassuring for me since I just got a flatbed machine! Now I just need to learn how to use it...

[leatherkind]

I have an improvised flatbed attachment. I thought of getting a factory built one, but i needed one really quick and made this one out of laminated particle board.

It turned out that this completely separate unit works very well. It takes no time to move it away with all the sewing on it if necessary and use the machine as a cylinder arm as designed.

It is also very easy to check on the bobbin or change the height of the table.

I however have not used the factory built one so i can not tell which one is better.

[Luke Hatley]

I have an improvised flatbed attachment. I thought of getting a factory built one, but i needed one really quick and made this one out of laminated particle board.

It turned out that this completely separate unit works very well. It takes no time to move it away with all the sewing on it if necessary and use the machine as a cylinder arm as designed.

It is also very easy to check on the bobbin or change the height of the table.

I however have not used the factory built one so i can not tell which one is better.

That is a very great looking set-up............

[Ben]

jdwintx

I made a jig to shape the gussets for a saddle bag I made.

The gusset is 4/5 oz lining leather. I wet the gusset , formed it around the jig, put plywood backers on front and back and clamped the edges till dry. I took the plywood backers off and glued the panels one at a time. Pulled out the jig and hand sewed but seems a machine would work at this point.

Hope this gives you more ideas.

Ben

Edited October 31, 2011 by Ben

[leatherkind]

I made a jig to shape the gussets for a saddle bag I made.

...

Ben

This is probably the best method out there. Awesome result!