What Is The Difference Between A Cobra And Cowboy?

[jimsaddler]

Just a few little comments here as to the differences.

Cowboy was and is developed by Tradesmen not Dealers! Hence the accessories being standard. The Big 12" Hand wheel (Better Torque and Control) was the first thing I asked for when I became an adviser to Cowboy. The Stainless Steel Needle Plates and Feet were another development to stop the Ferric Stains, when Sewing on Damp Leather. Also excellent for building on for special jobs as the SS can easily be TIG Welded and polished again without the need for re-plating. I could go on more but won't, as it is not good to turn the Forum into a Wrestling Match. Ryan, Bob and Steve are all Friends of mine. All are there to give good advice, All offer very Good Service. Shop around and make your own mind up.

One thing that I can say is I use Cowboy every day and am very proud of my Chinese Friends who Build them for Trades Peoples use at an affordable Price. They have listened to the advice given and acted on it quickly to improve their Machines usability at all the times.

By the way the supplied Stirrup Plate is very good. I've just started using it, doing 1 1/2" round end gussets in the ends of Document Cases. Does it so nice and neat, no waste. Take the tension off the Feet by lifting the Collar approx 3/8"higher to compensate for the higher Bump of the Plate. Use the Supplied dble Toe Harness Feet with the Stirrup Plate and lay your Gusset under the Body of the work. Sew on low speed and it works very well after some practice. Same goes for the Holster Plate, just needs a bit of practice. It's Fun finding new Products that can be Sewn using the variety of supplied accessories with your Cowboy at no extra cost to the Buyer.

Now I've said that. Can we go back to just enjoying the Forum as a Forum not a Sales pitch.

Kindest Regards.

Jim Saddler.

Any difference between getting just the right toe presser foot or just the left toe presser foot? I was recommended to stay away from the holster plate and get a left toe presser foot. It looks like the allow you to do the same thing, is this just a personal preference on if you get left or right.

Is the roller feed guide standard (I thought it was).

Nick

[Art]

Hi Nick,

The right toe foot is useful when sewing as close as you can to holster bulges. The expanded part of the holster hangs outside the end of the cylinder arm and you use the right foot so you can sew up close to the bulge or pocket. Now the bag plate or holster plate is handy when sewing the gusset into a bag, you lose a little thickness capability, but, who sews bags out of 3/4" leather. The holster plate/bag plate/stirrup plate raises the leather up a little allowing a sharper bend around the cylinder arm. This is a great accessory. As far as accessories go, make a deal to get all of them, you never know when you will want or need one and it is $100 and postage and a week away. That being said, I use a double toe foot for most things I do and only occasionally put on the right toe foot; I do leave the bag plate on most of the time, once you get used to it the flat plate seems a little restrictive.

Art

Any difference between getting just the right toe presser foot or just the left toe presser foot? I was recommended to stay away from the holster plate and get a left toe presser foot. It looks like the allow you to do the same thing, is this just a personal preference on if you get left or right.

Is the roller feed guide standard (I thought it was).

Nick

[Wizcrafts]

I wish I had one of those miniature milling machines. I would take other people's holster and stirrup plates and mill off steel from the bottom to allow the feed dog to remain in place. As things are now, one must remove the feeder to install the slotted and raised throat plates. On a new machine, you might need to employ the Green Giant to loosen the big screw that secures the feeder.

Edited October 11, 2011 by Wizcrafts

[Art]

I'm with you there, as the feed dog also acts as a needle guide. However, I wonder a little about needle deflection with the bag/stirrup/holster plate and having it miss the hole and strike the plate or the feed dog. Maybe I would chamfer the hole in the feed dog to give a little more relief in case of a little over zealous deflection by the operator.

Just a thought,

Art

I wish I had one of those miniature milling machines. I would take other people's holster and stirrup plates and mill off steel from the bottom to allow the feed dog to remain in place. As things are now, one must remove the feeder to install the slotted and raised throat plates. On a new machine, you might need to employ the Green Giant to loosen the big screw that secures the feeder.

[Rayban]

I wish i knew what you guys were talking about......I have the CB3500 and I THINK those parts you'z guys are referring to are available for it.....but again, I haven't a clue....

It's just me and my edge guide......

(Bob, if you're "listening" give me a call....I believe a lesson session is in order)

[Art]

Ray,

That info is like Sewing 201. You buy your first machine, you are taking Sewing 101, after you have been at it a while, you advance to Sewing 201. You have to understand how the machine works (not much, but a little bit) before you try something like the holster/bag/stirrup plate. Grasshopper, you must get over your fear and master the screwdriver. It might require a session or two with Bob to get it right, but it ain't rocket science.

Art

I wish i knew what you guys were talking about......I have the CB3500 and I THINK those parts you'z guys are referring to are available for it.....but again, I haven't a clue....

It's just me and my edge guide......

(Bob, if you're "listening" give me a call....I believe a lesson session is in order)

[Wizcrafts]

I'm with you there, as the feed dog also acts as a needle guide. However, I wonder a little about needle deflection with the bag/stirrup/holster plate and having it miss the hole and strike the plate or the feed dog. Maybe I would chamfer the hole in the feed dog to give a little more relief in case of a little over zealous deflection by the operator.

Just a thought,

Art

I like that idea about chamfering the top of the needle slot in the feed dog, even when used with the stock throat plate.

My friend at M&M Leather ran into a problem where the stock feed dog and throat plate had too much width for some of the jobs to be sewn (they were falling into the slot). So, he had a friend in a machine shop grind down the sides of the feed dog, to just clear the hole and had a new throat plate made to just clear the feeder. The plate's slot was also shortened to match the actual travel of the feeder, at the longest stitch length. This alleviated the trouble that first cropped up when using the Cobra to sew garment leather belts, chap straps or very narrow straps for things like purses.

The narrow feeder still moves the bigger projects, so it was a win-win to create the narrow set.

For those moving into 441 Sewing 201, if you install one of the feed dogless throat plates, your stitch length will decrease. You can alleviate the drag somewhat by backing off the top foot pressure adjuster, over the presser foot bar.. You may still need to move the stitch lever down a bit to regain the previous stitch length.

Be careful to not back off the pressure so far that the leather lifts as the needle pulls out of it!

[Kcinnick]

Thanks for all the help.

I am sure I won't figure it all out until I put needle to thread, but I am pretty sure about the dealer and machine I will be purchasing.

Thanks again.