Need Advice On Making This Type Of Holster...

[woodandsteel]

I make a holster like that as well. You can make them several ways.

One way is to have the separate straps attached to a pancake style body. like in the picture. With that, you make a holster out of the front and back piece, with a T-nut between them, to which you attach the snap loop, via a 6-32 screw through the male snap post. The advantage to this method, is that you can switch between different sized loops to accommodate for different width belts, and replace loops if they ever wear out or stretch. Also, it makes for a more efficient use of the leather when cutting out the pieces. The drawbacks are that it adds an extra layer of bulk and, because the straps are only attached at a single point (the snap), the loops of this design are probably the most prone to rotating/tilting away from the holster when worn. (More on that later.)

The other way to make this holster is to make the straps part of the front panel of leather, extending either from the top or the bottom, which wrap around the belt and fasten to a male snap post mounted on the front panel. Something recently pointed out to me from another holster maker, is that if you make the snaps come over the top, like I did below, they will tend to rotate outward unless you use two snaps per side. If you make them wrap the other way (with the loops snapping upward) they won't rotate outward, and you can get away with just one snap. I like the look of the snaps coming over the top better, but I offset the snaps toward the center of the holster to resist some of the outward rotation. I also added a convex curved the to inside edge of the straps, to help as well. It works better, but using two snaps per side will be probably the most stable design.

Here is a template for a holster I just made. When laying out your pattern, keep in mind how much room you'll need in curves for your sanding and burnishing tools.

Good luck with it!

Edited January 5, 2012 by woodandsteel

[malabar]

Malabar, . . . I come from old school military, . . . your weapon and you are one, never leave each other, tighly knitted, . . . etc.

This type holster will IMHO in time become somewhat floppy, . . . the normal nature of leather, given time, . . . and the back will begin to flex to where the gun will not be as securely held in as it was when the holster was new.

A pancake with belt slots OTOH, . . . holds the back of the holster from moving on the belt, . . . something I am not sure this design would do.

Call me a bit paranoid, . . . I just refuse to put something out there where I can see myself, . . . a propensity for future problems.

Take as a case in point the fellow a few months back who had a Glock in an older, floppy leather, holster. He sat down, . . . started to buckle in the passenger side of his car, . . . shifted his butt a bit, . . . BOOM. His holster had become old, floppy, and he didn't properly observe what was going on. As a result, he shot his own rear/leg, . . . a hole in his car seat, . . . his floor board, . . . and has been the "butt" of many jokes since.

I try to look ahead, . . . anticipate those type of problems, . . . head them off at the pass, if I can.

ANY holster I make for a Glock or similar striker fired weapon has a fully enclosed, . . . hard formed, . . . trigger guard, . . . or I don't make it, . . . and I won't sell it. Just like also, . . . Small Of the Back holsters, . . . I don't make em.

Anyway, . . . that's just me, . . .

May God bless,

Dwight

Dwight

thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'm experimenting with a similar design so I really appreciate the insight. I can see that the straps flexing could be a longterm issue, and am using replaceable straps on my design, but it's still in testing. But I think you're right -- nothing grips like a well-designed pancake. They're just not very convenient to mount and dismount.

I know the incident you're talking about. I'm a civilian firearms instructor and that got a lot of attention. I don't produce a belt side because I'm concerned about the exposed muzzle pushing the gun loose. That just kind of cinches it to me.

tk

[woodandsteel]

Dwight

thanks for the thoughtful reply. I'm experimenting with a similar design so I really appreciate the insight. I can see that the straps flexing could be a longterm issue, and am using replaceable straps on my design, but it's still in testing. But I think you're right -- nothing grips like a well-designed pancake. They're just not very convenient to mount and dismount.

I know the incident you're talking about. I'm a civilian firearms instructor and that got a lot of attention. I don't produce a belt side because I'm concerned about the exposed muzzle pushing the gun loose. That just kind of cinches it to me.

tk

Dwight, I've learned a lob from you on this forum but, to be honest, I don't see your logic here. How is this style of holster more likely to weaken or fail than a pancake or IWB? All of my holsters are hardmolded for retention.

[Sixer]

I make a holster like that as well. You can make them several ways.

One way is to have the separate straps attached to a pancake style body. like in the picture. With that, you make a holster out of the front and back piece, with a T-nut between them, to which you attach the snap loop, via a 6-32 screw through the male snap post. The advantage to this method, is that you can switch between different sized loops to accommodate for different width belts, and replace loops if they ever wear out or stretch. Also, it makes for a more efficient use of the leather when cutting out the pieces. The drawbacks are that it adds an extra layer of bulk and, because the straps are only attached at a single point (the snap), the loops of this design are probably the most prone to rotating/tilting away from the holster when worn. (More on that later.)

The other way to make this holster is to make the straps part of the front panel of leather, extending either from the top or the bottom, which wrap around the belt and fasten to a male snap post mounted on the front panel. Something recently pointed out to me from another holster maker, is that if you make the snaps come over the top, like I did below, they will tend to rotate outward unless you use two snaps per side. If you make them wrap the other way (with the loops snapping upward) they won't rotate outward, and you can get away with just one snap. I like the look of the snaps coming over the top better, but I offset the snaps toward the center of the holster to resist some of the outward rotation. I also added a convex curved the to inside edge of the straps, to help as well. It works better, but using two snaps per side will be probably the most stable design.

Here is a template for a holster I just made. When laying out your pattern, keep in mind how much room you'll need in curves for your sanding and burnishing tools.

Good luck with it!

woodandsteel,

Perfect! I'm a visual learner type guy so these pics will be a great help.

Much appreciated!

[woodandsteel]

Dwight, I've learned a lot from you on this forum but, to be honest, I don't see your logic here. How is this style of holster more likely to weaken or fail than a pancake or IWB? All of my holsters are hardmolded for retention.

[Rhide]

woodandsteel,

Perfect! I'm a visual learner type guy so these pics will be a great help.

Much appreciated!

Yep. Fixed something I was struggling with.

Thanks from me too.

[Colt Hammerless]

Sixer, here's a post about a mag pouch I made: http://leatherworker.net/forum/index.php?showtopic=36575

Hopefully that shows up as a hot link. Anyway, at the bottom of the thread there's some pictures of how this goes together. I decided to go with seperate straps on that one for the advantages that Woodandsteel mentioned. Also, I like them to come up from the bottom of the holster or pouch for when I'm putting it on or taking it off while sitting (i.e. in a car) as I don't have to lean so far as the straps enter the belt from the top vs. coming from the bottom. No doubt a minor point, but still convenient. It's an idea I gleaned from somebody here. Might have been Lobo, can't remember.

Colt Hammerless

[Sixer]

Sixer, here's a post about a mag pouch I made: http://leatherworker...showtopic=36575

Hopefully that shows up as a hot link. Anyway, at the bottom of the thread there's some pictures of how this goes together. I decided to go with seperate straps on that one for the advantages that Woodandsteel mentioned. Also, I like them to come up from the bottom of the holster or pouch for when I'm putting it on or taking it off while sitting (i.e. in a car) as I don't have to lean so far as the straps enter the belt from the top vs. coming from the bottom. No doubt a minor point, but still convenient. It's an idea I gleaned from somebody here. Might have been Lobo, can't remember.

Colt Hammerless

Colt,

Looks great! I think if (when) I make this style I'll use that method. I like the idea of the loops being seperate.

Thanks for the link and help!

[TOM123]

sixer

One more thing to think about, ----the snaps

on this style I like to use PULL THE DOT snaps

just a thought.

[Bronson]

We have an upholstery shop at work and when they make straps they sandwich fabric like a lightweight denim inside the leather straps. This keeps the straps from stretching out since the denim doesn't stretch. Has anybody tried anything like that on holster straps?

Bronson