BigGriff Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Just got a side from Zach White. I am making a guitar strap for my brother. This is my first time doing something like this. So my question is, how do you guys straighten the edges? I have a strap cutter, scissors and a utility knife. Does anybody have a quick, easy way to do this. I guess I could just use a ruler and hope it comes out straight, but I am hoping someone has a better method. Thanks in advance. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chancey77 Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Get a good cheap piece of flat bar about 3" wide by 1/4 or 3/32. about 3-4 feet long. I have been known to use a carpenters level as well but sometimes they have rounded the corners, so that will not be so straight 100% of the time, but it is worth a shot! Good Luck! BTW! Get aluminum flat bar!!!!!!!!!!!! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Cook Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I asked the same question when I bought a hide. I was told to find the widest / longest part of the hide and use a streight edge to make the 1st cut. I have a 4' metal ruler and I bought the strap cutter with the hide. However I haven't had the guts to try making that big of a cut. Good Luck, Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Get a string longer than the longest cut you'll need. Make a loop on one end and push a thumbtack into the leather, with the loop around the tack. Stretch the string out along the side as close to the edges as you can, getting the most useable leather out of the side that you can. When you find the right line, insert a second tack and wrap the string around it. Moderate tension is all that's needed. Once the string is in place, you can mark the hide with whatever you like...just be sure that you don't bend the string. I like very soft pencil or 'woodless' pencils on the flesh side. Then, go back and cut along your line. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
longtooth Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I use the long ruler suggestion. The only thing I do is clamp the ends of the ruler. A sharp utility knife and take your time. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ABC3 Report post Posted January 29, 2012 Go to Home Depot and buy a straight edge (about $10) then put you shoulder on a work bench (we use a couple of large work tables) and clamp the straight edge to the bench. Straight line and you can cut it with a box cutter. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
GrampaJoel Report post Posted January 29, 2012 You first have to make a straight cut along thee top edge of the side of hide. (That would be the top of the back, I use a 6' straight edge I bought from Lowes I think it cost around $15.00) After you get that cut You make a second cut parallel to your first cut the width you want the strap to be at it's widest point.( I use a draw gauge for this. But I have used an utility knife on occasion) There you have the basic guitar strap cut out. Now you didn't say what thicknes your hide is so, if the hide is to thick on the strap you just cut, you will need to split the first cut strap, or cut again at a thinner spot . Now figure the other decorative cuts and your on your way. Joel Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted January 29, 2012 I use a long straight edge as well, but I add one thing - once I have it set where I want it I lightly mark the line with a stylus (this is so you can tell if the edge is starting to wander migrate off you line for any reason and remedy before it's a problem) - I really like a rotary cutter that my wife picked up for me as the downward pressure that the leading edge of the cutter exerts seems to hold the leather down well and lessen chances of the leather being shifted under the straight edge - hope that makes sense :0/ Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BigGriff Report post Posted January 30, 2012 Thanks for all the suggestions everyone. I will be heading to Home Depot tomorrow to find a straight edge. I also like the idea of using a stylus before cutting. I will be using that technique. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Ken Cook Report post Posted January 30, 2012 McJeep, Can you elaborate on the rotary cutter? What kind of tool is it? Electric? What kind of blade? Ken Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
McJeep Report post Posted January 30, 2012 These guys - made by olfa - no good for round corners but work very well for straight cuts and doesn't pull the leather as yer doing the cut - get the biggest ya can find ;0) Sorry for the pic size - it's the only one I could find quickly and I gotta run Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mlapaglia Report post Posted January 31, 2012 I use a 45mm rotary blade knife like the quilters use for all my straight lines and rough cuts. I lay a straight edge on the leather and use it as a guide to cut. With cased leather it takes one cut. For tight curves I use a utility knife with a stropped blade. One thing nice about the rotary knife is I can use it to trim down the edge of one piece of leather using the other edge as a guide. Even for gentle curves. Mine is a Fiskars 9521 You can get them at hobby lobby and other craft stores. They go for about $15.00 and a pack of 5 replacement blades is about $10.00. TLF has one for 19.99 that is not as good as the Fiskars model. Give it a try. It wont do everything but for most cuts it does a great job. Get at least a 44mm blade Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted January 31, 2012 Hey, BigGriff, . . . another thing you can do that you will pat yourself on the back for, . . . and really enjoy, . . . buy some cork. Flat, maybe 1/16 of an inch thick, . . . use your strap cutter to cut it about 1/16" narrower than your piece of STAINLESS STEEL you bought for your straight edge. Contact cement the cork to one side of the STAINLESS STEEL straight edge. Cork will not mark your leather, . . . and the straight edge will not move if you have any pressure hardly at all on it. I emphasize STAINLESS STEEL because regular steel rusts and can leave residue on your leather that can ruin you whole day, . . . as well as aluminum can get a coating on it that rubs off on your leather too, . . . and it's nasty to try to work around that stain. I bought my 48 inch stainless rule (cork backed of course) from ST Leather, in Saint Louis several years ago. Love it. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Mongo Report post Posted February 7, 2012 The long ruler is the way to go. I was able to use a long dry-wall T-square I had from working on the house. Once you get one side nice and straight, the rest is easy. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites