Cylinder Arm Machines

[mmike956]

Here is the ongoing progress on the home made tables.

[mmike956]

Here are a few more pictures.

[dikman]

Those frames certainly look stable enough! One thing about that type of cylinder arm machine - it makes it easier to mount when you don't have to make a rebated cutout in the table.

[mmike956]

That is true however the V drive belt is a long skinny one! 3/8"X53". Not an easy find at the auto parts counter but is available. I've seen belts that piece together in segments but this was the easiest fix for me. By the way, The belts aren't here yet but on the way. The tables are made from 14gX1"X2" rectangle tube and some 1/2" standard pipe for pedal pivot shaft. The pedals require a little reaming to fit the pipe but it eliminates the need for the perforated channel and brackets. 3/4" standard plywood and a 3/8" birch smooth plywood laminate make the tops. I do have 2 factory tables one being a chopping block style in need of a little love and a green colored counter top style that was a free gift from an alteration shop here. I can't wait to see how the servo motor works with the cylinder arm machines. It just dawned on me that one of the tables sports a grey linoleum store bought top. I'll keep you posted.

Edited January 3, 2016 by mmike956

[dikman]

I just remembered that when I was buying a belt at my industrial sewing machine place they mentioned a belt material that is circular in cross-section and you buy whatever length you want and then use a special joiner to make it one piece. It's some sort of synthetic stuff. I must ask again (and write it down this time!).

[mmike956]

Last night I actually used the long leather belt off the 29K and shortened it to fit the 154W101 for a trial run. The machine isn't even bolted down yet but a successful seam was sewn. I thoroughly enjoyed seeing that double row of stitches forming. Once the V belt is here I can place the machine in a more precise location on the table top. The 29K doesn't need it's belt anyway, I use the hand wheel to operate it.

[mmike956]

I noticed my 153W102 had a 135X17 needle installed when I got it. It sewed fine and I decided to put a new needle in it and decided to use what the manual called for, a 135X7. Now its skipping every stitch except for the first one. I adjusted the needle bar to no avail. Changed thread sizes too. I did everything I knew to do and then just walked away from it. Any ideas?

[Uwe]

The 135x17 needle system dimension for beedle butt to top of eye is a full 5mm longer (38.9mm) than the 135x7 (33.9mm), according to this Needle system chart

A previous owner may have changed adjustments to make it work with the longer needle.

If you're switching back to the shorter original, you will likely have to go through the full hook timing adjustment procedure to have a chance of it working properly.

I'm curious how you could tell the needle in the machine was a 135x17? None of my needles from three different manufactures (Organ, Schmetz. Grotz-Beckert) have needle SYSTEM markings on the needle itself, just size markings.

Edited January 10, 2016 by Uwe

[gottaknow]

Actually, to go between the two needle classes, you simply have to adjust the needle bar height. Bring your hook to needle timing using the old needle and leave it there. Replace the old needle with the other class and simply loosen and change your needle bar height to bring it back to timing. No need to mess with the hook timing. That is assuming the hook timing was good with the old needle. I switch needle classes often on my old 211's and 153's all the time, as well as bartacks.

Regards, Eric

Edited January 10, 2016 by gottaknow

[mmike956]

I just happen to have a box of 135X17s to compare the old needle with, that's how I identified it or thought I did. I did move the needle bar to compensate for the length difference and I set the timing according to the manual. Maybe I'll go back upstairs in a little while and try it again. I had to leave it alone yesterday after a couple hours of messing with it. I must be overlooking something. It was working fine before I fixed it now I can't even get it to work with the old needle. It acts like its too close to the hook. This particular machine isn't one that Granddaddy left me. I bought it from USAdealer in Los Angeles. It was about $200 plus shipping and when it arrived I found the stitch length position pin had been brazed into the balance wheel. I couldn't see that detail from the picture on the site. The end of the arm shaft with the adjustment flights was broken off. I put another balance wheel on it and extended the position pin and now use the set screw to adjust the stitch length. It sewed so well I didn't mind the broken shaft so much. It still has the old fabric timing belt installed and when that breaks I can either replace the shaft then or just leave it and replace the belt alone. I'm not sure if this model is worthy of sinking much money into. I do appreciate all your advice. I'll keep trying.