Leather Stretching Problem

[ouchmyfinger]

i have heard that you can put tape on the back of a project to keep the leather from stretching while you tool, i have also heard that you can rubber cement it to something but for some of the things i want to make the rubber cement option isn't an option

my problem is when i case the leather the tape won't stick to the back, it will if i quick case it with a sponge obviously but i want to learn how to do things the right way

any ideas would be appreciated

I'm using herman oak 4 oz and want to tool a kindle cover for someone using the chan geer notebook patterns so it will be completely tooled

thanks in advance anyone

[terrymac]

3M clear packing tape is pretty good at not coming off. You can then apply rubber cement to the tape and back with plexiglass. About the only thing I have found too large to back is a belt. I got a large piece of plexiglass and then cut it into various sizes for different sized pieces. It stops the stretching.

Terry

[lightningad]

do you need to case the flesh side of the leather?

I found that gluing down onto stiff card, then using a sponge to case the top side of the leather was all i needed.

I didn't think the leather had to be wet all the way through. I have found the impressions to be better if its not totally wet,

adam

[radar67]

Clear packing tape followed by sponging the surface is all I do. After you apply the clear tape, you can run water over the surface to case it if you want.

[ouchmyfinger]

putting the tape on the surface first is what i did but because I'm only using 4 oz herman oak when i ran it under the sink for a few seconds it soaked right in and the tape came right off.

i have quick cased most of my stuff before by just wetting the surface but then when you cut with your swivel knife it drags on the dry leather under the surface so i was trying to case my leather by wetting it and letting it sit for a few hours. i have a piece of plexiglass that i put over it to help with evaporation while tooling. i waited overnight with the plexiglass on top and ill see if the tape will stick to the back now.

i pre stretched my leather with a glass burnisher and I'm sure that helped a little but all i have done is the lifters and thumbprints and i could see it was starting to stretch a little already so i left the plexiglass on top to help flatten it out also

I'm about to see if the tape will work after the drying time under the plexi

thanks guys

[Spinner]

putting the tape on the surface first is what i did but because I'm only using 4 oz herman oak when i ran it under the sink for a few seconds it soaked right in and the tape came right off.

i have quick cased most of my stuff before by just wetting the surface but then when you cut with your swivel knife it drags on the dry leather under the surface so i was trying to case my leather by wetting it and letting it sit for a few hours. i have a piece of plexiglass that i put over it to help with evaporation while tooling. i waited overnight with the plexiglass on top and ill see if the tape will stick to the back now.

i pre stretched my leather with a glass burnisher and I'm sure that helped a little but all i have done is the lifters and thumbprints and i could see it was starting to stretch a little already so i left the plexiglass on top to help flatten it out also

I'm about to see if the tape will work after the drying time under the plexi

thanks guys

I do a lot of decent sized tooling on my tank bibs and I found that packing tape thickness can vary quite a bit. 3M makes one the the thicker ones and it holds pretty well if moisture gets to it through the leather. I have to really worry about stretch as my pieces have to be 100% cut and holes punched before the tooling is done. What I do is use the 3M packaging tape and run it down the piece one direction, overlapping about a 1/4" with each new strip. Then I will run strips perpendicular to the first ones. The first layer controls the stretch, the second layer allows for a slightly deeper tooling like posterboard does.

I then use a commerical spray bottle (the big type janitors use) set on spray (but just above the stream setting) to deliver a good soaking. Work the sprayer like a paint gun, overlapping each line of water by 50% to ensure even wetting. Place the piece under plexiglass or saran wrap for an hour or so then spray again. Recover and let set for another hour or two. Now simply uncover, allow the surface to return to proper cased level (takes another 20-60 minutes depending on temps and leather thickness) and cut/tool away. On larger pieces I simply re-wet areas as needed with a smaller lower volume spray bottle set more to a mist setting.

If I get too aggressive with my tooling and the leather wants to curl after I pull the tape off, I use the mister bottle to lightly wet the surface and lay it back under the plexiglass with a weight on it. In a temp controlled room, the leather will completely dry under the plexi in about 2 hours with almost no curl to it.

[Ferg]

Wait until your leather has dried enough for carving, then apply the tape.

If you follow the correct way of casing your leather, sponging a little on top will show you how bad an idea this is.

You need to immerse the leather in tepid water until you see no bubbles rising from it. If you place the wetted piece between glass or plexiglass and leave it for more than 24 hours you can expect to see some mildew form. After wetting the leather, I wrap it in an old T-shirt or something of that nature so you don't transfer any texture. Leave it over night, remove from wrap, allow to dry correctly, carve. If you do your carving in the correct steps everything works great. If your piece is too large to finish in one session wrap it in Saran Wrap or place between two layers of glass to retain moisture. When you rewet leather to finish your tooling you will likely lose some of your depth of previously finished work. I may spritz a little water or use the sponge if the leather is getting too dry to work but only after it was initially cased.

When using the glass burnisher you are making the fibers of the leather move closer, it stretches very little unless you are pressing too hard. Move the burnisher in one direction if possible.

ferg

putting the tape on the surface first is what i did but because I'm only using 4 oz herman oak when i ran it under the sink for a few seconds it soaked right in and the tape came right off.

i have quick cased most of my stuff before by just wetting the surface but then when you cut with your swivel knife it drags on the dry leather under the surface so i was trying to case my leather by wetting it and letting it sit for a few hours. i have a piece of plexiglass that i put over it to help with evaporation while tooling. i waited overnight with the plexiglass on top and ill see if the tape will stick to the back now.

i pre stretched my leather with a glass burnisher and I'm sure that helped a little but all i have done is the lifters and thumbprints and i could see it was starting to stretch a little already so i left the plexiglass on top to help flatten it out also

I'm about to see if the tape will work after the drying time under the plexi

thanks guys

[ouchmyfinger]

I just put the tape on the back but it was the cheap kind I think. I'll run to home depot n grab some 3m. This tape was sticking a little better after it dried out a little. I tooled the corner and it seems to be working but ill switch the tape to ensure I don't ruin the project. I'll post pics when I get back from home depot.

I took pics of various stages so far and will post them in order. I only have beveling and backgrounding to do. Ups is on the way with my beader blade from barry. I can't wait to get it and my basketweave and border also.

Thanks

[ouchmyfinger]

I'm going to post the pics in the critique my work section since it really has nothing to do with this thread. my beader blade from barry came and ill work on it some more and update later, pics will be there shortly

thanks everyone