Whats Your Preffered Tooling Leather?

[FHL FERG]

Like the title says, What's your preferred tooling leather? Why? Where do you buy it from?

To date I have only been buying from Tandy, partly because I didn't know there were other options and partly because it was close and convenient. What tannery's veg tanned tooling leather do you prefer?

I have heard some good things about Herman Oak leather and I was thinking of ordering some and seeing how I like it. I keep reading how their leather holds a better image whe ntooling etc. Anyone know how or why that is? vs. the stuff tandy has?

Thanks

FHL FERG

[FHL FERG]

Really? No one?

[Glendon]

There are a ton of options of course, but the two main tanners people seem to go for around here are Herman Oak and Wickett & Craig. I personally buy most of my leather from Springfield Leather Co. Kevin and the ladies over at Springfield have always been great. But to be honest. everyone who advertizes here seems to be a solid option.

[Timd]

Wickett & Craig here, Ferg. I get my leather via mail, and Tandy was always a crap shoot. I've never had a bad side from W&C, and thier #3 leather is better than most of the Tandy#1 that I've used. You can get the "overstock" for a reasonable price, and they'll split it for you at no extra charge. No, I don't work for them either, lol.

Edited April 21, 2012 by Timd

[mlapaglia]

+1 for Herman Oak and Springfield Leather. Herman Oak is a tannery that takes its time and does quality work. Same with Wickett & Craig. I prefer HO because its a little firmer and stamps up real well. For the cost of some of the Tandy leather you can get Herman Oak #2 grade or better at Springfield. They will cut to order and you can buy as little as 2 sq ft. This way you can try a piece and see if you like it and not get stuck with leather you do not need.

Michael

[FHL FERG]

Thanks for the replies. I will take a look at both HO and WC and see what they have to offer.

[Leatherimages]

I'll also suggest here asking W/C to mill it will make your carving leathers in weights 3oz to 6oz. It's like no other leather for "soft" after tooling.

Use an illustration board rubber cemented to the back and tool away like it's 8oz. Turn it or mold it and you'll wonder why you didn't try it sooner.

I don't work for them either.

[kevinhopkins]

Hello Ferg,

I'm a Hermann Oak fan, but then, I sell it. I just thought I'd give you a little bit of extra info. First of all, both Hermann and Wickett make really good leather. 1/2 of the holster makers in the world think its the best, and the other half likes wickett. Both groups think that the other groups aren't too bright for the choice that they've made! One thing that's good to know is that Hermann's leather is for a fact firmer. Which of course, is why some folks prefer it. Wickett's leather is a bit on the "softer temper" side. which is of course, why some prefer it. I've used both with no complaints. Either would be about 11 steps up from what you're using. On the shameless plug side of things, we're willing to sell you a small piece rather than force you to buy a side. We just sell so blasted much of Hermann's leather that we don't have to worry about having little stuff left over. But you'll be happy with either leather.

Kevin

[particle]

I've been using Wickett & Craig lately because I can order their top-grade 8-10oz veg tan leather directly from the tannery with no minimum order, and they'll cut it to whatever thickness I prefer for no extra charge. I always get mine cut to 8oz thick because it helps to remove most of the fuzzy flesh side. I was also ordering belt blanks from Weaver. Their blanks are very pale in color, much like Wickett & Craig, so they match other nicely when dyed. Herman Oak has a much warmer russet color in its natural state, and looks beautiful when oiled! I currently just make holsters and related accessories, and have no problem with the firmness of the leather once finished.

All that being said, I am seriously considering switching back to Herman Oak because I really prefer the way it looks when oiled. I just have to find a distributor that can guarantee I won't end up with a bunch of nasty flesh sides again that I have to waste time sanding smooth...

[Colt Hammerless]

I had W&C plate the side I got from them, and it's at least as firm as the HO I've used. Makes a very rigid holster when formed. I'm loving this stuff. Adam, what type of leather are you using from them? I'm using their Russet Skirting. It's fairly close in color to regular HO. The samples I have of their russet carving leather is fairly pale, like their oak skirting. If their russet skirting still doesn't oil to the color you like for holsters/belts that are to be left natural, you could keep some HO laying around just for doing that.

Paul

[Cyberthrasher]

Put me down for HO from Springfield. And, if there's ever a problem, I know Kevin and the girls will be there to take care of it.

[particle]

Paul - I'm using W&C's Tooling/Holster/Carving leather that comes in 8-10 oz thickness. When I asked the sales lady about their Russet 8-10 oz skirting leather, she said its not drum dyed so the color is only on the surface.

[Bluesman]

W&C oak skirting, split form 10/12 to 8/9

Edited April 25, 2012 by Bluesman

[Colt Hammerless]

Bluesman, I don't know if it's the light, or my monitor, but that side looks the same color as my russet side. What grade is that? It looks very nice and clean.

Eric (I called you Adam on my last post...oops) I'll have to get some side by side pics of my W&C russet skirting next to some HO I have left over. I also have an HO holster that I left natural and simply oiled, along with some W&C russet pieces that I oiled, one with EVOO and one with neatsfoot. I'll get some pics of those as well.

Paul

[FHL FERG]

Just finished tooling my first piece of Herman Oak yesterday and I'm still trying to pick my jaw up off the ground! The image is so crisp, its like going from regular tv to HD

Edited May 19, 2012 by FHL FERG