Hermann Oak Question

[IngleGunLeather]

I finally got a paying order, so I decided to order some Hermann Oak as I read nothing but good things about the quality of the leather. I recieved my order a couple days ago and I was very pleased with the surface. It was nice and smooth with very few marks on it. However, when I started cutting my holster yesterday I was very surprised at how difficult it was to cut. I keep my head knife very sharp. I tried cutting some Tandy leather of the same weight (8/9 oz.) to check the knife and no problem cutting the Tandy stuff. Well, I do as all good and stubborn Marines do, I continued forward and finished cutting. Well, skipping forward to edge beveling, same problem, very tough. My beveler would hardly cut it at all, very nasty edge to say the least. Repeated my tool test against some Tandy, and same as before, no problem with the tool. Now skipping to my belt loop punching, holy cow, I think I beat the heck out of that thing to get it to punch through.

Anyone else experience this with HO or any other leather?

[Denster]

Yes I've noted that with som,e not al,l Hermann Oak. I've found when I get a side that is tough to cut I lay out the patterns then case both the grain and the flesh side. It then cuts like normal.

[Shooter McGavin]

Been there before, now I only order W&C leather. Not woth the risk of getting an uncuttable piece of HO anymore, which is a shame, because it is otherwise nice leather.

[mncarpenter]

I recently finished up a "European Bend" from Tandy, and then got some Hermann Oak belt bends- the HO is much "dryer" and stiffer, more difficult to cut and sew. I've noticed when glueing that it often takes 2 coats of contact cement when gluing the flesh side, as it sucks the glue right up. Wetting/casing helps for cutting, immensely, especially when edging, and I even sew while cased, much nicer. The Euro Bend from Tandy is very nice leather btw, and wouldn't mind using if wasn't so expensive, not that the HO belt bend was much less... I do like the HO better, seems to mold better and stay put, but it seems to get too wet really easily, its like a sponge.  

[DaltonMasterson]

Yep. I ordered a sample of it to try, and had the same results. I am sticking with the Wickett and Craig as well.

DM

[ChuckBurrows]

You might also check out RJF Leather (an advertiser here) http://rjfleather.com/content/index.php/products/

This stuff works great and is in fact a Euro old style vat tanned leather. When I first checked them out Roger sent me some examples at no cost - I then sort of lucked out and got several shoulders and a couple of sides from a shop that went out of business. Next time I order I will definitely order form them - FWIW I uses W & C and Herman OAk for over 40 years until I found this stuff. Being ablet o get shoulders in various weights is real nice and last time I checked the prices are still very reasonable all things considered, plus being old style vat tanned is a plus for my customer base..

[IngleGunLeather]

You might also check out RJF Leather (an advertiser here) http://rjfleather.co...x.php/products/

This stuff works great and is in fact a Euro old style vat tanned leather. When I first checked them out Roger sent me some examples at no cost - I then sort of lucked out and got several shoulders and a couple of sides from a shop that went out of business. Next time I order I will definitely order form them - FWIW I uses W & C and Herman OAk for over 40 years until I found this stuff. Being ablet o get shoulders in various weights is real nice and last time I checked the prices are still very reasonable all things considered, plus being old style vat tanned is a plus for my customer base..

Thanks Chuck. I sent the a price request. I cut out another holster tonight on this HO and I couldn't help but notice how light, spongy and dry it felt compared to the Tandy leather.

[Eaglestroker]

CT, I got this tip from a wise old Hawaiin man telling me about 1907 slings one morning. Wet the leather.

I still only use W&C Leather but jotted that note down to myself.

[JoelR]

First off, where did you get the HO? If it is not a #1, this may be why it is not a #1. Even leathers from the same tannery will cut differently. The two sides I am currently working with are both from W&C. One is Russet the other is drum dyed black. The russet cuts like butter, the black, not so much. I remember having a conversation with the guy I ordered from about "holsterized" leather so I really don't remember if I ask him to make the black with that addition but it is stiffer and noticeably thinner than the russet. Additionally, the black is a #1 while the russet was an overstock utility grade. Yeah, maybe I'm not being much help after all...

[Spinner]

I'm thinking the same thing Joel pointed out, might be the grade or supplier's stock. I'm on my 11th side of HO for this year and have had good luck thus far. In the last year in my search for the right leather I've bought and tried:

Tandy's Craftsman Oak & Royal Meadow

SLC's Herman Oak

W&C overstock and #2 & #1 in both the russet and black

ALD's #1 russet back

Goliger HO #1

Sheridan Leather HO #1

So far out of all of those the HO #1 has been the best all around. Tools beautifully, good color and wet forms nicely (and I do some pretty big wet forming over compound curves).

I have tried it from a few places trying to save $ but in the end found that Goliger and Sheridan Leather carry the cleanest #1 HO stock outside going direct.

I typically go with Goliger due to the shipping being next day for me and $20 cheaper since they're only a few hours away.