Looking For My First Leather Sewing Machine And Overwhelmed

[kristinj]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Andrew Chee]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

Just a little comment. I've found that on this board, wallets, belts, amd purses is really considered light-medium weight stuff even though you may consider it heavy weight. when people talk about heavyweight here, they're talking about holsters and saddles.

What area of the country do you like in? The problem with model numbers is that everyone's a clone of everyone else so you will find a bazillion different model names for what is basically the same machine.

I went this very same thing a few months ago. I now have two machines and I feel like I have a much clearer ideas as to what to look for. So instead of models, here's a couple of features you should look for:

Walking foot: specifically compound feed (aka triple feed)

Maximum sewing thickness: 3/8 - 1/2 inch

Heaviest thread: 138 (maybe a 207 but you won't need to go heavier than that for what you're sewing)

Flatbed or cylinder bed: cylinder beds are more versatile when sewing gussets for bags but many don't have a flatbed attachment so is not as convenient on big flat items. This one is up to you.

People talk about the need for smooth feet and feed dogs and that is true but in a pinch you can modify those yourself to smooth then out. servo motor is a definite must have in my opinion. Anyways, you can PM me and I can share more of my experiences with you.

Andrew

[Techsew Ron]

Just a little comment. I've found that on this board, wallets, belts, amd purses is really considered light-medium weight stuff even though you may consider it heavy weight. when people talk about heavyweight here, they're talking about holsters and saddles.

What area of the country do you like in? The problem with model numbers is that everyone's a clone of everyone else so you will find a bazillion different model names for what is basically the same machine.

I went this very same thing a few months ago. I now have two machines and I feel like I have a much clearer ideas as to what to look for. So instead of models, here's a couple of features you should look for:

Walking foot: specifically compound feed (aka triple feed)

Maximum sewing thickness: 3/8 - 1/2 inch

Heaviest thread: 138 (maybe a 207 but you won't need to go heavier than that for what you're sewing)

Flatbed or cylinder bed: cylinder beds are more versatile when sewing gussets for bags but many don't have a flatbed attachment so is not as convenient on big flat items. This one is up to you.

People talk about the need for smooth feet and feed dogs and that is true but in a pinch you can modify those yourself to smooth then out. servo motor is a definite must have in my opinion. Anyways, you can PM me and I can share more of my experiences with you.

Andrew

All good advice. You need a medium weight leather machine.

For a good used machine you're looking at between $800 and $1100, however there are new machines available in a similar price range.

If you're going the ebay route, make sure the machine is tested and set up to sew leather otherwise you'll have to spend more on getting a mechanic to do this for you,.

Let me know if you need any more advice!

Ron

[Ferg]

I have a Consew 206 RB5 flatbed and a Seiko CW8B short cylinder arm machine. They both use the same needles and feet among other things. They will both sew 3/8" easily and on occasion 1/2" leather.

If I had to do it over again I would probably buy a longer cylinder bed with a table attachment. Down side to having the latter combination is the need for changing from a cylinder to the flat bed more

often than I would care to.

Call Bob Kovar at Toledo Industrial Sewing. (Banner at top of this page. If you don't see it right away, refresh the page until you do.)Tell him what you want to do. He may have a used machine that will fit your price range but you could get a Cowboy, brand new at good price points.

Bob will set you up with a machine that works right out of the box and can put together a "Kit" if you will. When you get the machine to your shop/home you can be sewing leather in less than an hour.

Stay away from e-bay and definitely Craig's List. My Consew came from an E-bay dealer. Nothing wrong with the machine except it was setup for fabric, they assured me it was set up for leather but the needles and everything else he sent weren't correct. "After service" stinks, so be aware.

ferg

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Wizcrafts]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

Read my pinned article about The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather

Next, settle on either a flat bed or cylinder arm machine to start with. Note, that you can buy or have a table attachment made to cover a cylinder arm, turning it into a partial flat bed machine for wallets, vests, chaps, belts, etc. A flat bed is always flat.

Brands I like best are (alphabetically): Adler, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Juki, Seiko, Singer (and the Japanese National 300N, if you can find one). Most folks on this forum are using machines they purchase from dealers who are members of Leatherworker.net. Those dealers offer after-sale support you cannot get from most eBay sellers. If you buy a sewing machine from a seller on Craigslist, you are totally on your own if you encounter problems.

I have and use the following brands of industrial sewing machines: Cowboy, National, Singer and Union Lockstitch. Two are flat beds, two have cylinder arms and one a semi-post machine. In the past I have also owned Pfaff and Juki sewing machines. I have friends who own a Consew and love them. My best friend, for whom I do sewing when needed, owns an Adler and a Cobra.

I also want to clarify that the machines sold on eBay as "industrial strength" are as strong as any home machine can be, but are not leather sewing machines. I own four home style sewing machines. Two are old iron Singers. Will they sew leather? Yes, about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, but only with #69 thread. Will they feed a large piece of leather, without ganging up on stitches, or separating the layers? NO.The only way they sew multiple layers inline is if if they are stapled, glued or taped together first. They need help feeding leather through the feed dogs, because the flat fixed presser foot drags against the top layer. As a result, stitches vary in length.

To properly sew leather, with say a middle weight thread like #138, requires an actual industrial sewing machine, preferably with triple feed. These are called compound feed walking foot machines. My article linked to above explains all of this.

[kristinj]

Thanks for all the initial info! I've definitely been scouring the boards the last few days trying to get as much info as possible, which helped lead me to getting overwhelmed. I feel like now I can revisit posts and read them in a fresh mind. I've definitely been turned off from craigslist and ebay since I realize most of those machines that are being called "industrial" are as Wizcrafts says and I don't feel comfortable dropping four figures on a piece of machinery I've never seen, especially if it's not coming from a reputable source.

Andrew- I live in the southeast (new orleans to be exact), I thought maybe with the region being such a textile hub, or at least used to be, finding a decent used machine would be easy, but not so much. granted i just started looking within the last week so who knows whats out there i have yet to find. In the next few months I'll be traveling back and forth a bit to chicago so I am also looking around the midwest for machines.

I'll also give Bob a call.

I'm sure i'll be posting quiet a bit in the future as my leather working progresses so i thank ya'll now and in the future for all the help!

Kris

[bruce johnson]

Great advice so far from guys who know a lot more than me. One more maker/machine I would add is a Pfaff 1245. I have a clone, but I haven't talked to many people who have one that don't like them. Mine will do up to 1/2" with #207 as easy as it does #69 thread on 3 oz. On occasion I have run 207 on the bobbin, but my usual set-up is 207 on top and 138 in the bobbin.

[sherilynn]

Hello Wiz!

I'm a newbie to machine sewing leather and experiencing the same overload of info shopping for a machine- I need to make a decision soon as the time spent researching- while important- is cutting into actual production! I've been reading your postings and they're extremely informative- I joined this site largely because of the quality of info in your posts- thanks for the education! If I may, I'd like to pose a couple more questions...

First, is there one machine (that you would recommend) that can handle a continuum of weights? Specifically, from lighter weight items like denim and doe skin, up to and including sturdy, medium weight leathers as for upholstery, belts and handbags? I will also be working with hair-on hides.

I'm also unclear as to how to interpret the measurements regarding the thickness of the leather a machine can handle (i.e., if a machine is said to handle 1/4" the actual thickness of the working piece will be 1" where seam allowances converge and overlap).

Again, I appreciate this site and everyone's willingness to share their knowledge!

My best,

Sheri

Read my pinned article about The type of sewing machine you need to sew leather

Next, settle on either a flat bed or cylinder arm machine to start with. Note, that you can buy or have a table attachment made to cover a cylinder arm, turning it into a partial flat bed machine for wallets, vests, chaps, belts, etc. A flat bed is always flat.

Brands I like best are (alphabetically): Adler, Chandler, Cobra, Consew, Cowboy, Juki, Seiko, Singer (and the Japanese National 300N, if you can find one). Most folks on this forum are using machines they purchase from dealers who are members of Leatherworker.net. Those dealers offer after-sale support you cannot get from most eBay sellers. If you buy a sewing machine from a seller on Craigslist, you are totally on your own if you encounter problems.

I have and use the following brands of industrial sewing machines: Cowboy, National, Singer and Union Lockstitch. Two are flat beds, two have cylinder arms and one a semi-post machine. In the past I have also owned Pfaff and Juki sewing machines. I have friends who own a Consew and love them. My best friend, for whom I do sewing when needed, owns an Adler and a Cobra.

I also want to clarify that the machines sold on eBay as "industrial strength" are as strong as any home machine can be, but are not leather sewing machines. I own four home style sewing machines. Two are old iron Singers. Will they sew leather? Yes, about 1/8 to 3/16 of an inch, but only with #69 thread. Will they feed a large piece of leather, without ganging up on stitches, or separating the layers? NO.The only way they sew multiple layers inline is if if they are stapled, glued or taped together first. They need help feeding leather through the feed dogs, because the flat fixed presser foot drags against the top layer. As a result, stitches vary in length.

To properly sew leather, with say a middle weight thread like #138, requires an actual industrial sewing machine, preferably with triple feed. These are called compound feed walking foot machines. My article linked to above explains all of this.

[busted]

This would make a very nice sewing machine for your first one.

http://www.ebay.com/itm/VINTAGE-ANTIQUE-SINGER-INDUSTRIAL-WALKING-FOOT-SEWING-MACHINE-/110853811327?pt=LH_DefaultDomain_0&hash=item19cf66ec7f

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

[Ferg]

I'm not Wiz but I can answer the one question you asked. The thickness a machine will handle is the total of all pieces you have to sew through.

A majority of the flatbed machines sold by dealers on here will handle 3/8" comfortably. You need a little space to get the material under the feet so that space

may be 1/2" to 9/16". There are also cylinder arm machines that will sew relatively thin leather up through about 7/8".

Wiz can fill you in further but you need to talk to any one/or more of the dealers on this site. Give them all the information you possibly can.

There is a certain amount of information you will need to study to see what machine is best for you.

BTW: When making heavy bags and such, skive the edges so you do not have such a thick seam/joint.

ferg

Hello Wiz!

I'm a newbie to machine sewing leather and experiencing the same overload of info shopping for a machine- I need to make a decision soon as the time spent researching- while important- is cutting into actual production! I've been reading your postings and they're extremely informative- I joined this site largely because of the quality of info in your posts- thanks for the education! If I may, I'd like to pose a couple more questions...

First, is there one machine (that you would recommend) that can handle a continuum of weights? Specifically, from lighter weight items like denim and doe skin, up to and including sturdy, medium weight leathers as for upholstery, belts and handbags? I will also be working with hair-on hides.

I'm also unclear as to how to interpret the measurements regarding the thickness of the leather a machine can handle (i.e., if a machine is said to handle 1/4" the actual thickness of the working piece will be 1" where seam allowances converge and overlap).

Again, I appreciate this site and everyone's willingness to share their knowledge!

My best,

Sheri

[Art]

Hi Sheri,

When a sewing machine has a statement saying it will sew x", that means the total it will sew, not necessarily optimally, but at least less than that. A 1/4 inch of leather (16oz in the trade, 1oz being 1/64 inch) is for all intent and purposes one of the largest bull hides you may encounter and you would have to search for it. Garment leathers are 2-3oz and shoe/boot leathers 3-5oz and when lined usually with 4oz, a total of around 8oz. Most leather for projects is in the range of 4-12oz, with average 6-8oz.

Traces for draft harness horses can go 1 inch or more when put together and are quite often the limit for harnesswork.

For shoes and other projects where a lot of pieces may intersect, we usually skive the edges of the pieces down to a thinner section so bulges will be controlled if not eliminated.

It might be remarkable that leather hides are measured in ounces of thickness, or in the shoe business "irons" (1 iron = 1/48 inch), but when we put them together, we usually specify inches.

So your sewing machine will sew in inches. Big harness machines (called stitchers) will sew in the 7/8 to 1 1/4 inch range maximum, and some will sew a dollar bill (not well of course, and with big thread). Medium machines will sew dollar bill to 3/8 inch, sometimes 1/2 inch. Small machines, 1/4 inch or less. Small machines will sew with 33 or even less thread up to 69 and maybe 92. Medium machines will sew 46 to 138, sometimes 207. Stitchers sew 138 to 415 easily, some bigger, and with persuasion, 92 and 69 on the small end.

When sizing a machine, figure on running the machine constantly in it's mid or low end range. Don't buy a mid range machine and try to sew 207 all day with it when it was meant to handle 138.

And to complicate things, there are ranges within ranges. It is important that the first machine come from a brick and mortar dealer, they help with selection and they can help learning to sew and operate the machine. The dealer also makes sure the machine is setup for leather. There is a lot to setting a machine up for leather sewing, and it is not just putting in a leather needle. A machine set up for sewing fabric at the speed of light will be nothing approaching useable for serious leatherwork, and the cost to change a machine over to that use is well North of the $200 mark at cost, more the bigger the machine. So the dealer is worth what he charges.

Art

I'm also unclear as to how to interpret the measurements regarding the thickness of the leather a machine can handle (i.e., if a machine is said to handle 1/4" the actual thickness of the working piece will be 1" where seam allowances converge and overlap).

Sheri

[Wizcrafts]

A standard walking foot machine that specifies a maximum foot lift of 9/16 inch cannot sew that much. You need at least 1/8 inch free space for the feet to alternate up and down, if not more. This limits the actual sewing thickness to 3/8 inch. Conversely, if the machine specifies it sews 3/8 to 7/16 inch, the foot lift figure will be at least 1/2 inch, to 5/8 inch.

There are virtually no machines in the common market place that sew one inch. The only exceptions are the huge long arm flat bed machines used in the tent making, buffing wheel, and car wash cloth industries. Few of them can sew 1 inch.

You need to go back to the drawing board and reduce the thickness by at least 1/4 inch. This would allow you to use a 441 clone, either flat bed or cylinder arm, which can sew a little over 3/4 inch.

If you truly need to sew one solid inch, consider getting a Campbell High Lift needle and awl stitcher. It should only set you back about 7 grand, plus or minus.

[Art]

The No.9 would sew over 1", special adjustment, but it works. I've seen a few Union Locks set up to sew over 1". Also Campbells, and Ferdco made a few 441s (2000 Pro) that would do it. Of course nobody said the feet would ever touch the needle plate again.

Art

A standard walking foot machine that specifies a maximum foot lift of 9/16 inch cannot sew that much. You need at least 1/8 inch free space for the feet to alternate up and down, if not more. This limits the actual sewing thickness to 3/8 inch. Conversely, if the machine specifies it sews 3/8 to 7/16 inch, the foot lift figure will be at least 1/2 inch, to 5/8 inch.

There are virtually no machines in the common market place that sew one inch. The only exceptions are the huge long arm flat bed machines used in the tent making, buffing wheel, and car wash cloth industries. Few of them can sew 1 inch.

You need to go back to the drawing board and reduce the thickness by at least 1/4 inch. This would allow you to use a 441 clone, either flat bed or cylinder arm, which can sew a little over 3/4 inch.

If you truly need to sew one solid inch, consider getting a Campbell High Lift needle and awl stitcher. It should only set you back about 7 grand, plus or minus.

[DoubleBarP]

I can sympathize with your confusion. I went through the same thing. This is what I did. I found myself a patch machine and did a little practice. It is mostly good for garment type leather. When it comes to belts and holsters ect. My patch machine just did not work. My next step was to visit my friend who is a custom holster maker to look at his machines ( Campbell Bosworth& Louberto No 9) and see what he uses and why. I then went to see an Amish harness maker who has a harness / saddle shop, and lots of machines. I had him stitch abelt for me as I wanted to see what an Adler would do. ( he also had singers, Pfaff, and a Landis #3)There were sever dropped stitches in the belt… I read everything I could here (Wiz had great info) and there is a lot of experienced folks willing to share knowledge.

I visited a guy that has one of those nifty Tippman's who really like it. He seemed to spend a lot of time adjusting and re-adjusting while I was there. My last step was to send Bob Kovar an email asking if he had a customer near me that had a cowboy machine (hear nothing but good things). He contacted a customer about 3 hours away and who was willing to let me look at his 4500 and give his machine a test drive. I spent about 4 hours at his leather shop and took notes during my visit. The gentleman is a Professional Saddle maker very gracious and was a real pleasure to talk to he has several machines and got rid of hisTippman. He let me take his machine for a test drive. I sewed a gun belt laminated two pieces of 8 oz leather. And a holster laminated 5 – 8 oz leather. I ran a couple of test runs and did both the items without a hitch…. No dropped stitches, no tension issues….

I contacted Bob Kovar and ordered my CB3500 the next day…. The 2500 would have probably met my needs butI think it would have been working hard at times. He shipped it to my Wisconsin and I drove 1.5 hours to pick it up at the freight terminal. (I live in a rural area and no access to a fork lift). Once home and un-crated, my son helped me carry the components to the basement where we assembled same. It was adjusted ready to sew. After 3 months I am still trying to perfect my technique and am getting closer. I have a couple of shopping bags full of reject / practice pieces… ( I asked my friend the pro to evaluate the stitch and he thought it does a pretty good job… It is not a needle and awl machine but will work on anything that I can think of so it meets my needs… The servo motor lets you slow it way down to maintain very good control…. I now wish I had bought it years ago and not the patch machine….

Good luck...

DBP

Edited April 7, 2012 by DoubleBarP

[wnkleather]

I've been looking for and researching leather sewing machines and am at a point where I am totally overwhelmed! I've read so much about what to look for and whats what and will and won't work and seen so many machines on craigslist and ebay and feel like I'm totally lost. Since I'm new to machine sewing a lot of the technical stuff I've read just kinda flys over my head since I'm not really sure what certain parts or things are. I feel like Iǘe over informed myself to the point of confusion and maybe need to pull it back a bit and refocus and seek out more personal information from people more experienced in the craft.

I currently am willing to pay for a decent used machine. I looking to make mostly various wallets, purses, belts, mostly medium to heavy weight stuff.

I pretty much would like to just put together a list of basic makes and models so that I can be more focuses in my searches. I feel like I have seen so many machines listed on ebay and craigslist that say they are industrial machines capable of sewing leather but after more research it turns out they are not recommended by experienced leather workers. I figure if i have a list of models i can specifically search for I will be less overwhelmed by all the crap thats out there.

Thanks!

When my projects got too large and hands too weak to continue hand stitching I researched (as you are) all I could before purchasing my first machine. My initial confusion came from wanting one machine to sew all of my projects, from 3oz to 20oz. No single machine can do it all. I now have three and and am looking for # 4, mainly because I prefer to leave a machine set up to sew a certain needle/thread, without having to take time to make adjustments (I guess I'm lazy).

If you will not be making saddles/harness you will never sew 1" of leather. Even 1/2" is alot of leather. That being said, you probably want a machine that is capable of sewing 1/2". Try a cylinder arm with a flat bed attachment - it gives you more flexibility.

Call the dealers from this website. Super people that will help you through every step. Their knowledge is worth $. Try Ron at FERDCO, also fabulous service before and after the sale. I am a big fan of used machines from REPUTABLE dealers - they will not sell you something not built to do what you want, and have "sewn off" (i.e. tested and adjusted) the machine. If you can travel to one of these dealers, they will give you a terrific lesson before you leave with your new (or used) machine. If your machine comes in a box, you're limited to phone support.

I love hand stitching. It is therapeutic, makes you part of the leather, and can look fabulous, I just can't do much of it anymore. You can PM me if you have any questions.

[stelmackr]

<<<snip>>

Call the dealers from this website. Super people that will help you through every step. Their knowledge is worth $. Try Ron at FERDCO, also fabulous service before and after the sale.

<<<snip>>>

I second the comment about FERDCO ( http://www.ferdco.com ). Ron, Cheryl and Rick have been more help to me than any other business I have ever dealt with. I own three of their machines: two new flat beds and one cylinder machine. I highly recommend their Sewing Machine Class given each year at the Pendleton, Oregon, Leather Show in November. It is worth the trip and you will also see:

Oregon Leather - leather, Tandy Leather Factory- leather, , Barry King Tools- Hand tools, Bob Douglas Tools - Hand tools, Wayne Jueschke - Hand tools, Hansen Western Gear - Silver and silver jewelry, Bee Natural - Horse Care Products, Sheridan Leather Outfitters & Bob Dougles tools - Leather, tools and leather related products, Herb Bork & Son's - Cast Hardware, - Bronson Knives -Hand tools - Weber Stirrups - stirrups, - Chuck Smith Tools - Stamping Tools, Ron's Tools- Hand Tools, Y-Knot - leather lace, James Jacob - used leather tools and related products, Timberline Saddle Trees (pending - drew special Elk hunt) - saddle trees, Marlin Leather - deer skin glove and other leather suppliers.

To me it is the "poor mans" Rocky Mountain Leather Trade Show

[sherilynn]

Many, many thanks to everyone for replying with such helpful information. I think I'm misunderstanding the measurement/weight of leather; with the information you all provided I played around with one of my embossed cow hides (the weight I would use for upholstery) and found that 4 layers pressed flat comes to about 3/8" so It looks like I'm well within range for a machine without any extreme requirements.

Thank you all again for the education!

Sheri

[Wizcrafts]

Many, many thanks to everyone for replying with such helpful information. I think I'm misunderstanding the measurement/weight of leather; with the information you all provided I played around with one of my embossed cow hides (the weight I would use for upholstery) and found that 4 layers pressed flat comes to about 3/8" so It looks like I'm well within range for a machine without any extreme requirements.

Thank you all again for the education!

Sheri

Most upholsters use a flat bed walking foot machine, with reverse and a large bobbin, like the Consew 206RB-5

This type of machine definitely sews 3/8 inch of material, with up to #207 bonded thread. The needles available go up to a number 25, which allows you to sew with #207 thread top and bottom. The springs are heavy duty enough to properly tension #207 thread and to hold down the presser feet as the needle lifts with the bobbin thread, through 3/8 inch of webbing or leather. Lesser machines can't hold down such dense materials.

The 206RB-5 has a really long maximum stitch length of about 3.5 per inch.

The Chandler 406RB is the twin brother, bought out and now made by the same company, for a little cheaper price.

[sherilynn]

Wiz, I hope I am fully conveying just how valuable this information is to me! It is generous of you and others to share your time following these threads and responding as you do! I cannot wait to get my machine- I've been sewing and upholstering for years and I'm excited to make the transition to some serious leather sewing- couldn't do it without help like yours and the other members of this site who share their time and expertise!

Looking forward to the day when I can contribute something of value to other newbies!

Sheri

Most upholsters use a flat bed walking foot machine, with reverse and a large bobbin, like the Consew 206RB-5

This type of machine definitely sews 3/8 inch of material, with up to #207 bonded thread. The needles available go up to a number 25, which allows you to sew with #207 thread top and bottom. The springs are heavy duty enough to properly tension #207 thread and to hold down the presser feet as the needle lifts with the bobbin thread, through 3/8 inch of webbing or leather. Lesser machines can't hold down such dense materials.

The 206RB-5 has a really long maximum stitch length of about 3.5 per inch.

The Chandler 406RB is the twin brother, bought out and now made by the same company, for a little cheaper price.

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz, I hope I am fully conveying just how valuable this information is to me! It is generous of you and others to share your time following these threads and responding as you do! I cannot wait to get my machine- I've been sewing and upholstering for years and I'm excited to make the transition to some serious leather sewing- couldn't do it without help like yours and the other members of this site who share their time and expertise!

Looking forward to the day when I can contribute something of value to other newbies!

Sheri

Sheri;

When I decided to get back into leather work and sewing, I started from scratch. The first few machines I get were home style old iron machines that were inadequate. I finally saved enough money to buy a really nice National walking foot machine from a local company. When I got the machine it was setup for vinyl upholstery, with a large motor pulley for high speed operation. It had an old 1/3 HP clutch motor. After fighting with it for a month I bought a SewPro 500GR from Bob Kovar (Toledo Industrial Sewing Machines). The original belt was too long, so I ordered a shorter belt from Bob.

That motor is so easy to control at any speed that it makes my head spin thinking how it used to be. I set it to full speed on the knob, then use my toe position on the pedal for whatever speed I need, even down to 1 stitch every few seconds when sewing around tips of belts. On the straight-aways I floor it and sew at 10 stitches per second.

The only changes I made to handle pulling heavy thread up into veg-tan leather was to replace the upper tension beehive spring with a heavier coil spring. The top pressure springs were already strong enough to hold down 3/8 inch of leather as the needle ascends.

When I came across a job that exceeded the clearance of the feet, I routed out some iron on the back of the head and changed the needle system, and it now is capable of sewing almost 1/2 inch of leather, or webbing, depending on which presser feet I use.

That machine was my only machine for one solid year. I have since acquired several more, including a Cowboy CB4500 cylinder arm heavy stitcher and a Union Lockstitch harness stitcher. Still, that flat bed National is the most versatile machine in my collection.

Edited April 7, 2012 by Wizcrafts

[Cobra Steve]

Hi kristinj. May I suggest that you contact all of the dealers that have banner ads at the top of the page. We are all reputable companies. After talking to us all, I'm sure that you will have a better idea of what you need. Thanks, Steve