Some Tips On How To Use Antique

[Rockoboy]

From my experience, antique is made to stay in the tooled areas which would make them darker, so that is the opposite of what you want. If you used thinned paint (on a test piece, not your actual job), it would hopefully stay in the lower stamped areas, and be polished off the high spots.

Maybe you need to polish with a cloth wrapped around a hard flat piece of glass-timber-bone folder etc (so it is only reaching the paint on the high spots) with some solvent on the cloth.

[AJ2018]

This is one of my antique art work for a project that I did. 
 

cheers . 

Another antique art work for a project 

cheers 

A.J

[LoopyLeathers]

On 4/19/2014 at 10:55 AM, SeekingPerfection said:

right, I guess my question is how do you keep that natural look? are they blocking out those areas?

I think that Yamatokobo is using a fiebings pro resist. in my experience that has been the best resist for keeping the leather as close to the natural colour as possible. he also may not even be using an antique? may just have a really good method for his tooling that is allowing him to achieve that beautiful natural deep bruising from his bevelling? that's my opinion at least. I love geeking out over his work.

[LoopyLeathers]

On 6/2/2019 at 10:54 AM, akatana said:

I know that antiquing is usually done with a darker color than the piece is already dyed, but, I want to sort of reverse the effect. I want the tooled area to be lighter, preferably a silver or gold, to bring up the tooled design. I haven't found any antiquing gel/stain in either of those colors. I tried using acrylic paint, but it stuck to the untooled high areas, as well. My base was dyed, then two coats of Fiebing's Resolene. After that I painted the acrylic paint, let it stand for two minutes, then wiped it off. But it didn't wipe completely wipe off the high areas and when I tried wiping harder it pulled the paint out of the stamped areas. Was two minutes too long? Is acrylic paint the wrong thing to use? Any ideas?

you can get a neutral coloured antique paste and mix your silvers or golds into that. providing you with a gold or silver antique paste. Voila. hope this helped.

[Grihm]

Long time ago, but always fun to mix a sealer and antique. I find that going over the piece with sealer 3 times or so worked best for me, then to build up the antique to the required tint without rubbing over the sealed parts too much. Overworking the area can cause tears and cause the colour to blend in under it.