Loose Hip Holster

[dotsun]

Hey guys,

Man I'm having a blast making all these holsters! I have a slight problem with this one, however. I finally got it all together and finished and it was perfect and very tight but after wearing it for a day it's loosened up and doesn't offer as much retention. I'm thinking on the next one I'll put a Chicago screw in at the trigger guard for adjustable tension as I'm trying to avoid a retention strap on this design.

Edited May 13, 2012 by dotsun

[DoubleBarP]

Hey guys,

Man I'm having a blast making all these holsters! I have a slight problem with this one, however. I finally got it all together and finished and it was perfect and very tight but after wearing it for a day it's loosened up and doesn't offer as much retention. I'm thinking on the next one I'll put a Chicago screw in at the trigger guard for adjustable tension as I'm trying to avoid a retention strap on this design.

I consider myself a novice when it comes to leather craft. I only have about 30 or so holsters under mybelt so to speak. So consider the sourcewhen you read this.

My observations:

1. Tooled leatherdoes not lend itself to detailed molding / boning as it washes out the tooling. (would aid in retention)

2. The particular design would work with a thumbsnap to aid in retention or a Chicago screw with rubber grommet to aid infriction to retain holster.

3. The design would also work with a retention snapas well that crosses the grip or slide.

DBP

[katsass]

Hey guys,

Man I'm having a blast making all these holsters! I have a slight problem with this one, however. I finally got it all together and finished and it was perfect and very tight but after wearing it for a day it's loosened up and doesn't offer as much retention. I'm thinking on the next one I'll put a Chicago screw in at the trigger guard for adjustable tension as I'm trying to avoid a retention strap on this design.

FWIW from the old grump; Looks nice, BUT. I've made a few holsters over the years, but have never seen anything quite like this. You have nothing there to provide any retention. You need to stitch a line down the trigger guard side of the shooter. This stitch line, which (in distance) needs to be roughly 1/2 the thickness of the widest part of the gun plus the thickness of the leather used --- runs down the trigger guard side of the gun's outline---and establishes and provides the basic retention. That, and good wet molding, keeps the gun in place by friction. That's why most all holsters are shaped as they are --- kind of close to the shape of the gun being placed in them. It's a very nice looking and well made piece, but, unfortunately, your design is not too practical as a working holster IMO.A good holster design is a balance between protection of the gun, accessibility to the gun, comfort to the wearer, and the ability to keep the gun secure in the holster. Aesthetics are kind of the last thing that you worry about ---IMHO Mike

P.S. Upon further observation I notice that the mag release seems to be covered by leather. If so, it seems possible that during the draw, or upon re-holstering, the button may be inadvertently be depressed causing the problem of a dropped magazine. That ain't good. Mike

Edited May 13, 2012 by katsass

[dotsun]

Thanks for the advice, guys, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I agree it needs something for retention, wet molding and closer stitch lines is how I've done most of my other holsters and they work great but I really wanted to not mess up my tooling. lol Unless there's some trick to it every time I've wet formed and molded to the gun it's negatively impacted my tooling.

I think I'll try again with a Chicago screw and see if I can make that work. If not I'll give in to the retention strap.

[Dwight]

Thanks for the advice, guys, that's exactly what I'm looking for. I agree it needs something for retention, wet molding and closer stitch lines is how I've done most of my other holsters and they work great but I really wanted to not mess up my tooling. lol Unless there's some trick to it every time I've wet formed and molded to the gun it's negatively impacted my tooling.

I think I'll try again with a Chicago screw and see if I can make that work. If not I'll give in to the retention strap.

An alternative option for you: re-design the shape on the trigger guard side of the holster. Move the stitch line in to where it is really close and follows the contours of the gun. You will probably have to make at least one that you put up on a shelf, . . . just to get the EXACT measurement needed.

When you get that pattern perfected, . . . cut the stitches, . . . roll it back out flat, . . . and use it for the pattern to cut your new "pretty" one.

Tool it to your hearts content. Let it dry, . . . absolutely, completely, 100% DRY.

Glue, edge, burnish, and sew it together.

Then, . . . being very careful, . . . spray the INSIDE ONLY of the holster with water that is hot enough that you don't keep your hands in it long, . . . but not hot enough to actually burn you. Use an old Windex spray bottle or something like that.

Then be careful, . . . and with a pair of brown jersey gloves on your hands, . . . form and mold the holster around the gun. The forming and molding won't be perfect, . . . but it wil be much better than the loose bag holster you have now. And do not put the gun in Saran Wrap, a plastic bag, or anything like that. It only makes the holster bigger. You can wipe that little bit of water off the weapon later on.

After you have molded it (should not take over about 5 - 7 minutes, . . . slip the weapon out, . . . gently squeeze the holster back so it is just a tad tighter than the width of the weapon, . . . hang it up in front of a fan to dry. If you have access to a heat box that you can predictably make at 130 deg F, . . . dry it in there.

This process is about the best of both worlds, . . . having a holster that is both formed and tooled. And it is only a good compromise to both.

May God bless,

Dwight

[katsass]

An alternative option for you: re-design the shape on the trigger guard side of the holster. Move the stitch line in to where it is really close and follows the contours of the gun. You will probably have to make at least one that you put up on a shelf, . . . just to get the EXACT measurement needed.

When you get that pattern perfected, . . . cut the stitches, . . . roll it back out flat, . . . and use it for the pattern to cut your new "pretty" one.

Tool it to your hearts content. Let it dry, . . . absolutely, completely, 100% DRY.

Glue, edge, burnish, and sew it together.

Then, . . . being very careful, . . . spray the INSIDE ONLY of the holster with water that is hot enough that you don't keep your hands in it long, . . . but not hot enough to actually burn you. Use an old Windex spray bottle or something like that.

Then be careful, . . . and with a pair of brown jersey gloves on your hands, . . . form and mold the holster around the gun. The forming and molding won't be perfect, . . . but it wil be much better than the loose bag holster you have now. And do not put the gun in Saran Wrap, a plastic bag, or anything like that. It only makes the holster bigger. You can wipe that little bit of water off the weapon later on.

After you have molded it (should not take over about 5 - 7 minutes, . . . slip the weapon out, . . . gently squeeze the holster back so it is just a tad tighter than the width of the weapon, . . . hang it up in front of a fan to dry. If you have access to a heat box that you can predictably make at 130 deg F, . . . dry it in there.

This process is about the best of both worlds, . . . having a holster that is both formed and tooled. And it is only a good compromise to both.

May God bless,

Dwight

Good point by Dwight --- I don't tool anything anymore, but back when I did, I'd stuff a DAMP, (not soggy wet) warm washcloth down into the open, unmolded holster. Let it sit for about 15 or 20 minutes and then go to molding. Woks well and doesn't mess up the tooling.

Dwight --- you're making me remember things I didn't know that I forgot. Mike

[Eaglestroker]

I am able to get great retention and maintain tooling, I would argue that this is mainly an experience issue. I'll add a picture of a recent rig that was dunked in a sink for 7-8 seconds, allowed to rest, then molded by hand with latex gloves on. A lot of this has to do with the surface that your tooling on too, IMO. Anywhere you really stress the leather it will push out the tooling in my limited experience.

Dwight and Mike are spot on though. Keep trying!

[dotsun]

Man that holster looks great. I have no doubt my problems* are mainly due to inexperience as I've only been at this a month or so. I've probably made 10 or so holsters and a couple other (very) odd pieces. Thanks again for all the advice, and @ Katsass I'll try that trick next time I make one like this.

*- leather related problems that is.

[Langston]

Heres my two cents.. Tooling and holsters go hand in hand, if the design and function of the holster are equal. knowing where to put the tooling so it doesn't get twisted as you mold the holster, is tuff. here are a couple of mine that I fought with tooling.. I also found out if you tool the leather before you cut it to size it wont deform..

[Steve Lowe]

On all my conceal carry holsters I do not use extensive tooling for this very reason. if you stamp the edges you'll be fine. but when you start carving the whole holster or use a ton of tooling, it is quite difficult to get the retention you want. so if you opt for a lot of carving or tooling, add a thumb break to ensure the gun stays put. your client will appreciate it.

Holster looks SUPER-DADGUM-RIFFICK!!!!!!