Members Blueboost Posted June 16, 2012 Members Report Posted June 16, 2012 Hello all, thanks in advance for any help. I make & sell watch straps, but I have run into a problem with both of my current edge coating options. They feel a bit tacky after drying, and I have noticed some color residue staying behind on my wrist. I had one customer complaint that the black edge coating left a mark on his wrist also. What am I doing wrong? I can't figure it out... My currently used options are Fiebing's edge coat, which I paint onto the edge after i've smoothed them with gum trag. I let the edge coat dry and thats it. The other option I've been recommended and trying is 5 parts Eco-Flo Cova Color, 1 part Eco-Flo Satin sheen. Same process, painted on gum trag smoothed edge and left to dry. This seems to work great, but this last strap I had residue on my wrist with a little perspiration. Burnishing is nice but I need options. I have customers that want yellow/red/blue, all sorts of varieties and I need to be able to keep up with demand. At the very least, I am in major need of a black and brown solution to this problem. Quote
Members DoubleC Posted June 16, 2012 Members Report Posted June 16, 2012 I don't use edge kote, just because I've never bought any. I think you just need to finish up the process you are using. I don't always put a dark edge on mine but rather just the color of dye I'm using like you want to do. After the trag and dye let it dry and then use some denim and saddle soap and go over the edges again. That's what I use on my edges, but you need something like denim with it to make sure you get those pigments that are just laying on the surface rubbed off. I hope this helps. Cheryl Quote
Northmount Posted June 16, 2012 Report Posted June 16, 2012 I think you are having problems because the dye can't penetrate the gum trag. Should dye first, then apply the gum trag if you are going to continue using it. Cova colors are water soluble, so any color sitting on top of the gum trag is going to get wet from perspiration a and transfer to clothes or skin. Search for Bob Park's method of burnishing edges. It's pinned at the top of on of the groups. CTG Quote
Members Blueboost Posted June 16, 2012 Author Members Report Posted June 16, 2012 Thanks for the replies. I think you are having problems because the dye can't penetrate the gum trag. Should dye first, then apply the gum trag if you are going to continue using it. Cova colors are water soluble, so any color sitting on top of the gum trag is going to get wet from perspiration a and transfer to clothes or skin. Search for Bob Park's method of burnishing edges. It's pinned at the top of on of the groups. CTG I'm not using dye, edge coat is basically acrylic paint. I'm using a product specifically designed for this, just thought maybe I was missing something, perhaps sealing it somehow. I can't dye a black straps edge yellow, or red, dye isn't a solution i'm afraid. I tried searching around the forums and google and didn't have much luck. This can be done successfully as I have competition out there doing it on a regular basis. Quote
Northmount Posted June 17, 2012 Report Posted June 17, 2012 1339889175[/url]' post='252855']Thanks for the replies. I'm not using dye, edge coat is basically acrylic paint. I'm using a product specifically designed for this, just thought maybe I was missing something, perhaps sealing it somehow. I can't dye a black straps edge yellow, or red, dye isn't a solution i'm afraid. I tried searching around the forums and google and didn't have much luck. This can be done successfully as I have competition out there doing it on a regular basis. You need something (paint) that is not water based or water soluble, or a coat of something like a lacquer over top of it. Any color product that you use that lays on top the gum trag needs to be compatible with it. It needs to dry well between coats, so don't rush the steps. Water based paint is sensitive to the thinners in lacquers and alcohol based finishes, so the finish probably needs to be sprayed on so the color doesn't get spread around by any rubbing action for what ever applicator you use. Multiple light coats are better than single heavy coats. Heavy coats are likely to crack and check. Some one of the posts I read a couple months ago was about applying a hot melted finish on the edge. I think it was related to shoe repair. Anyhow, good luck with your search for a better solution. CTG Quote
Members busted Posted June 17, 2012 Members Report Posted June 17, 2012 My suggestion would be to get rid of the eco friendly crap. Get some Resolene and your problem will be solved. Hello all, thanks in advance for any help. I make & sell watch straps, but I have run into a problem with both of my current edge coating options. They feel a bit tacky after drying, and I have noticed some color residue staying behind on my wrist. I had one customer complaint that the black edge coating left a mark on his wrist also. What am I doing wrong? I can't figure it out... My currently used options are Fiebing's edge coat, which I paint onto the edge after i've smoothed them with gum trag. I let the edge coat dry and thats it. The other option I've been recommended and trying is 5 parts Eco-Flo Cova Color, 1 part Eco-Flo Satin sheen. Same process, painted on gum trag smoothed edge and left to dry. This seems to work great, but this last strap I had residue on my wrist with a little perspiration. Burnishing is nice but I need options. I have customers that want yellow/red/blue, all sorts of varieties and I need to be able to keep up with demand. At the very least, I am in major need of a black and brown solution to this problem. Quote
Members Blueboost Posted June 17, 2012 Author Members Report Posted June 17, 2012 My suggestion would be to get rid of the eco friendly crap. Get some Resolene and your problem will be solved. Nice. Thanks Busted. Any suggestions or point me in the right direction how to use it for edge coating? Quote
Tree Reaper Posted June 17, 2012 Report Posted June 17, 2012 Have you tried sealing a completed strap with neat lac? Kevin Quote
Members Sylvia Posted June 17, 2012 Members Report Posted June 17, 2012 It should be noted that Gum Trag can act as a slight resist. (It's also used in dying fabric with indigo dye to create a lost dye effect) Dye doesn't penetrate it well and I don't believe that it has enough tooth to allow acrylic paints to grab. Slick with saddle soap and water. (wet, soap, slick) Then experiment with some scrap with different acrylic paints. Spinner uses model paints for his projects... and they are beautiful... then seal the whole piece with something like resolene, Good luck I hope you find the perfect solution. Quote
Members busted Posted June 18, 2012 Members Report Posted June 18, 2012 All I do to my belts is to do the edge dye. I use Fiebings and sometimes a product called Tuffcoat in black. It is a product of Beilers Mfg. in Ronks,Pa. I do not get rub-off with either. Just finish the strap like you always do but don't use gum trag on the edges it is a sealer too. Let everything dry and then add the Resolene finish. Once it is dry it is water proff. It is an ammonia base product you already know that. Nice. Thanks Busted. Any suggestions or point me in the right direction how to use it for edge coating? Quote
Members Blueboost Posted June 18, 2012 Author Members Report Posted June 18, 2012 Thanks everyone, i'm going to give your ideas a try. Quote
Members Qbacce Posted July 15, 2014 Members Report Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) Hello to all.. I bring up this topic again and post two pics to have info about this type of edge: Can you give me some directions to do the same with my straps? Thanks to all Click on pics to enlarge Edited July 15, 2014 by Qbacce Quote
Trox Posted July 15, 2014 Report Posted July 15, 2014 Yes, stop using that gum tragant. I cant really see any advantages with this product, must be on certain leathers that will not burnish with anything else. You can use saddle soap, but the best thing is to stick to water alone. Then you keep your burnisher clean too. I do not want to use anything else than water on my new cocobolo burnisher. Then I keep it clean for fat and do not have to sand it all the time to make it burnish well. In addition the Fibings edge cote want come off either. Sometimes I use alcohol based dyes before burnishing, that will ease up the burnishing process and remove fat. Oil/fat and wax must be applied after the the edge cote and not before. There are an other option too, you can move on to heat treatment of your edges. Then you must move on to professional edge paint. You will have to invest in a hot glazing tool/machine or a "Filet electric" in French. Check out the topics about it or contact Campbell Randall. It will work on chrome tan leathers too. Very nice color on your watch straps, are they all Fibings? Tor Quote
Members Qbacce Posted July 15, 2014 Members Report Posted July 15, 2014 (edited) Thank for reply, they are not my creations.. I was asking for directions to do an edge finishing like those in pics.. So: burnishing with water and saddle soap, apply an acrylic paint than resolene/edge kote could be a solution??? Luca Ps what is franch traditional tecnique?? Edited July 15, 2014 by Qbacce Quote
Members malchik Posted August 13, 2014 Members Report Posted August 13, 2014 Hi, you can check what I'm using http://www.fenice.com/index.php/en/63-slide-immagini-what-s-new-inglese/630-section-lacquers, Tandy used to sell those under name Professional edge paint (not anymore ?) Quote
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