vintageredesigned Report post Posted June 20, 2012 Hello Everyone! Well, I have a show coming up and I thought I was going to be ready --however, this is the first time I have used leather glue and I didn't realize how difficult it is not to get it everywhere! I am gluing 17 inch long 1/4 inch wide kid skin (super soft/thin) straps together -- I am using BARGE all purpose cement and everytime I try I keep getting the glue on the outside of the skin. I have super glue coming but it won't be here until Thursday. My goal is to have the absolute best adhesive so that the leather doesn't come apart with the easiest application. Does anyone know of either (1) an easy way to remove the excess glue leaving the outside of the skin perfect or (2) a more systematic and efficient way to glue narrow pieces such as these without getting the glue everywhere......Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated : ) Thank you! Julie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
DoubleC Report post Posted June 20, 2012 Hi Julie, have you tried spreading it out with a small brush? Cheryl Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Luke Hatley Report post Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Julie ..... Glue large pieces together then cut into strips. Edited June 20, 2012 by Luke Hatley Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) There is a glue eraser available #153-1at Springfield. I use painters masking tape to protect areas from glue and dye. I also use masking tape sometimes to tape small pieces down while they get glued. Edited June 20, 2012 by Tree Reaper Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
countrywoman Report post Posted June 20, 2012 (edited) Julie ..... Glue large pieces together then cut into strips. It is a good method! Or using a small brush - Cheryl said this. Do not apply the adhesive of the complete strips but rather piece-by-piece careful. Ute Edited June 20, 2012 by countrywoman Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TexasJack Report post Posted June 21, 2012 In Chuck Burrows' video on sheathmaking, he points out that he keeps an empty glue can with a brush and uses that one, not the one that sits in a full can. That keeps the glue from getting up on the stem of the brush and dripping. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
bluesman1951 Report post Posted July 4, 2012 I dont understand why you would use super glue . The barge is not the most friendly either as the fumes are a issue for me . I use Aleene's Tacky glue for this type of project . They sell it at Walmart about 1.97 for a big bottle . Use one of those yellow plastic bondo spreaders to spread the glue then rinse in water to clean . This is user friendly if it gets slopped around just rinse the whole thing in warm water and any excess glue is gone . Gives a good bond and is great . Glue wider strips and cut your small strings with a rotary cutter and a straight edge . I use the 60mm cutter ,works for me . Hello Everyone! Well, I have a show coming up and I thought I was going to be ready --however, this is the first time I have used leather glue and I didn't realize how difficult it is not to get it everywhere! I am gluing 17 inch long 1/4 inch wide kid skin (super soft/thin) straps together -- I am using BARGE all purpose cement and everytime I try I keep getting the glue on the outside of the skin. I have super glue coming but it won't be here until Thursday. My goal is to have the absolute best adhesive so that the leather doesn't come apart with the easiest application. Does anyone know of either (1) an easy way to remove the excess glue leaving the outside of the skin perfect or (2) a more systematic and efficient way to glue narrow pieces such as these without getting the glue everywhere......Any and all help is GREATLY appreciated : ) Thank you! Julie Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SandSquid Report post Posted July 4, 2012 In Chuck Burrows' video on sheathmaking, he points out that he keeps an empty glue can with a brush and uses that one, not the one that sits in a full can. That keeps the glue from getting up on the stem of the brush and dripping. The first thing I do when opening a new can of Barge is cut off the brush that is under-neath the cap. $1.00 / 12 plastic watercolor brushes from walmart/Michaels/etc. are "disposable" and much easier to control. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
ramrod Report post Posted July 4, 2012 i use the weldwood contact cement. what i like to do is use the old can to work from. i'll buy a new can and pour about 1/8 of it into the old can and keep working out of the old one. it helps to keep the new can fresher by not opening it often. plus, if i do happen to leavve the lid open for too long, i've only ruined a tiny bit of glue. another thing....i keep using the old chip brush. it gets caked with glue and looks like it should be thrown out, bit if i keep reusing it, only the tip of the bristles will get soft from the new glue. it helps me to have more control over where the glue is applied if i have a stiffer brush. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
