floral carving step by step

[David Genadek]

Thanks for confirming my suspicions. I've been learning from Al Stohlman books and his various books seem to vary as to the order of tooling too. So as you say...there is really no correct order.

As you progress through Stohlmans books you will find rules he sets down early on he breaks in his later books. This does not mean that it is wrong it means that as you advance your skills and gain control you can do more. For instance, keeping the swival knife at a 90* angle; once you get that under control throw that rule out the window. However, if you are haveing trouble telling which line is which and some one says to cut at an angle on a inside curve so you can get a better undercut bevel it would be to much when you are learning. Stohlmans books are excellent!! I learned from them. They got me to a point that I could really learn from others later on.

David Genadek

[David Genadek]

Clay, Great job! As far as order of tool use, I believe Paul Burnett suggests that the blunter tools like a pear shader be used before the sharper tools. He establishes his order with the amount of dampness in the leather. However, like you, I also do beveling first.

I would like to add one thing that may be pertinent in the use of the camo tool along the outside of the scroll. Some one once told me (I can't remember who) that the inside points of the camo tool should be pointed at the imaginary center of the scroll. Thus, the tilt would gradually be dimisheded as you go up the scroll. Carlb

You should place a mental dot in the center of the scroll and the viens or cams should try to point at that dot. The scroll is the major form in this art so it should be studied. Getting the proportions correct there really adds to carveing and later when you daw your own designs the scroll can be used to set the proportions of the design by using a series of scrolls to determine the flow line.

David Genadek

[freak]

I don't know what it is but i'de rather do letters then do floral carving. You, as well as others here, make it look like second nature . I know if i don't practice i'll never be any good at it. It just seems i can always find something else to practice.

Great write up Clay. I'm sure i'll be using it for guidance when i get ready to practice my florals. Thanks for taking the time to do all the write ups you do. It means alot and helps alot.

Edited January 8, 2008 by freak

[jammon]

Very helpful, thanks!

[pete]

I almost always trace, cut and shade for the simple reason that I like to pear shade deeply on the leaf tips and other places and the leather bunches up against the cut line. Then when I bevel after it pushes it back and gets a better "ridge" than if I bevel first. Sometimes that flattens out the bevel and I lose the definition. Do what woiks!

As I say and have heard after years of (professional) music.....it ain't wrong, it's just different.(Although I've jammed with a ton of guys who just play it WRONG>

[pepin1948]

Clear and didactic

Nice center background

[Leather Bum]

Thanks for the how-to, Clay; you did a great job. What are the tool numbers for the cam and veiner you used?

I almost always trace, cut and shade for the simple reason that I like to pear shade deeply on the leaf tips and other places and the leather bunches up against the cut line. Then when I bevel after it pushes it back and gets a better "ridge" than if I bevel first. Sometimes that flattens out the bevel and I lose the definition. Do what woiks!

As I say and have heard after years of (professional) music.....it ain't wrong, it's just different.(Although I've jammed with a ton of guys who just play it WRONG>

This brings me to my question of tool-order. If you pearshade before beveling, don't you find that, as Pete mentioned, the leather "bunches up against the cut line" -- making it more difficult to position the beveler IN the cut? You know, if the pearshader closes the cut, it seems easier to accidentally bevel either in front of or behind the cut (not desirable).

L'Bum

[Warren]

Thanks for the lesson Clay! Maybe I will try my hand at this now that someone has laid it out so well and made it look less intimidating. Warren

[ClayB]

L'Bum,

I am not sure what numbers I used, but I tried to match up the impressions and here's what should work. Veiner 708. You should also be able to use 409, 412, 417 or any on that order. I like the ones that are narrower and flatter. For the cams, I used an 831 to end the spiral on the scroll, but any cam that fits the curve of the spiral will work. On the edge of the scroll I used a 433. Again, a lot of different ones will work. Just make sure with either the veiners or cams you tilt the tools and just make impressions with one edge. Then in the large leaf, opposite the veiner, I used a C432 cam. Dont go buy a bunch of new tools if just because you dont have the same numbers though. See if the ones you have will work first.

[Kani]

Thanks Clay. I think I might give this a try as well. Thanks for posting the tools used as well.