floral carving step by step

[pete]

Thanks for the how-to, Clay; you did a great job. What are the tool numbers for the cam and veiner you used?

This brings me to my question of tool-order. If you pearshade before beveling, don't you find that, as Pete mentioned, the leather "bunches up against the cut line" -- making it more difficult to position the beveler IN the cut? You know, if the pearshader closes the cut, it seems easier to accidentally bevel either in front of or behind the cut (not desirable).

L'Bum

You shouldn't have a problem seeing/finding your cut line if you cut cleanly, deeply, and the casing is correct. The lines should stay open and clear. If they close up your leather is probably too wet.

pete

[DonnieBlaze]

love the tutorial thanks

[cjowett]

I have a question on back-grounding. How deep should it be? Is the intent to set it well back so the figures are almost in relief or are you just trying to rough the surface so it will take a dye or stain adding texture to the background? Similarly what is the intent with pear shading? This tutorial is very helpful and I think I can now get a good effect with scrolls but what am I trying to achieve when I move on to roses and oak leaves?

[ClayB]

I try to get my background as deep as I can to get the relief you mentioned. It's really up to you how deep you want to go and what effect you are going for. The pear shading is to give the scrolls, leaves or flowers shape and depth. There is a tutorial here on how I carve oak leaves (not sure how it got put into the figure carving section) Roses are something I've never gotten that good at but there are some great examples of how they are done well here on the forum. Look at the work of Bobocat and Tina here on the forum for a couple that come to mind.

Also, check out Paul Burnett's Painting Cow website and sign up for his free tutorials. Paul goes into detail and really explains some things that anyone learning how to carve should read and study.

[cjowett]

I downloaded Paul's free tutorials. Great information. I'm looking forward to my next project to see if I can take it to the next level.

[St8LineGunsmith]

I know this is an old thread but i think the contents is well worth bumping the thread up to the top for new members to take a look at

[Harag]

I know this is an old thread but i think the contents is well worth bumping the thread up to the top for new members to take a look at

Agreed... Bump

Love the tutorial. Thanks

[charles canillas]

Excellent tutorial. Very informative. Thanks

[club49]

Hi All,

I am new here and this is what I came to see. Thank you very much Clay.

[club49]

Thank you Clay, that really helps me understand what is going on. It really gets expensive buying stamping tools. Every time I look at a pattern for belts that I want to try, they are using different stamps. I feel that I have to get the same stamp or it won't come out right. I realize you don't have to have the same one. I have the biggest problem with beveler, is there a standard one that can get you through most of the Sheridan style? I understand there different sizes that I will need. What beveler's did you use for the work above?

[Red Bear Haraldsson]

Carl,

Thanks for adding the info on the scrolls. I meant to mention Paul's website too. He has a lot of good tips on when, where, and how to use different tools. Be sure to sign up for Paul's free lessons at Painting Cow

This is the current Painting Cow link:

http://paintingcow.com/content/index.php/publications/free_lesson_sign_up/

Cheers!

[Professor]

Glad I found this. I just started cutting out the patterns from a Tandy holster and Gunbelt pattern pack, these have very similar Western scroll work carving patterns.

Also found one of the plastic press down patterns for belts in some of my old papers.

Made my first holster from one of these patterns today,( the Ruger Single Six) but left it smooth because I want to practice a bit more before I try a more serious job.

This tutorial will be of great help.