Leather Grain Direction.

[ItsJustNC]

Hey guys.! I've been leathercrafting for a few years now, and recently I've been pondering about something that has been hardly considered and talked about in great depth amongst leathercrafters. The ever illusive "grain flow direction" of leathers. More often than not, people wouldn't consider it as that big a factor but i was wondering what do the guys here think..?

Because i personally feel that there might be something to it. Like how i find that belts and straps feel more supple when its cut parallel to the spine as compared to perpendicular. Or how i find that having the main body of the bags i make cut along with the flow of the grain tends to create bags that retain it's shape better. Kind of like how woodworkers cut parallel to the wood grain for more strength. I believe that the way patterns are set will affect how our products will age and mould as time passes. But my ears are open to opinions.! =D

So what do you guys think..? Does anyone feel that there is a noticeable quality difference in cutting a belt from a side hide along with the flow of the grain in comparison with cutting a belt from a double shoulder/ double butt against the flow of the grain.?

Pardon the poor illustration.! I just did a quick sketch on the way i saw things in my head about this particular subject. From what i observed the general grain flow goes from the head right down to the tail. And it gradually curves downward and meet right in the center of the belly where there is a whole whirl of erratic flows. Feel free to correct me if I'm wrong.!

[ItsJustNC]

Really...? No one has any opinions on the matter...?

[harrington]

I think the "grain" you are talking about would be the same as the way the hair lays on a live animal. Good idea, but not always possible to cut some pieces like this such as a saddle seat which will span a broad area with several different "grain" directions.

Tom

[ItsJustNC]

Yea, I see what you mean..! However, what do you think about the difference in quality when cut along with the grain flow in say... A bridle for the horse.? (Im just guessing you make bridles too since you do saddle..!)

[browills]

Was just watching a qualified Leather Worker on television who said when buying a belt be sure the grain runs perpendicular because you want the cut from the centre of the beast. If it runs across and they get the belly it will stretch because that leather is far softer and will never last as long. The best cut is always from the centre as the sides are far softer and they stretch. Hope that makes sense and helps?

[308]

Interesting topic and I've wondered about similar concepts.

I was once told by a leather supplier that I used that some of their customers would only order a specific side of a hide.  For example they would only buy the right side. I guess it would make sense if you cut straps by hand and your shop table is easier to cut right to left/ butt to neck.

Some folks like to cut belts from double shoulders as that cut eliminates the belly area but the lengths might be limited.  Not sure how the grain pattern would be on those?

The best straps seem to be from the spine area or the first several cuts on a side, back or bend.

The only time I'm concerned about grain direction is when doing edges because I like to slick with the direction of the grain not against it until most of the fuzz is laid down smooth. 

[Matt S]

18 hours ago, 308 said:

I was once told by a leather supplier that I used that some of their customers would only order a specific side of a hide.  For example they would only buy the right side. I guess it would make sense if you cut straps by hand and your shop table is easier to cut right to left/ butt to neck.

Some folks like to cut belts from double shoulders as that cut eliminates the belly area but the lengths might be limited.  Not sure how the grain pattern would be on those?

The best straps seem to be from the spine area or the first several cuts on a side, back or bend.

The only time I'm concerned about grain direction is when doing edges because I like to slick with the direction of the grain not against it until most of the fuzz is laid down smooth. 

Supposedly the preference for left-vs-right sides is because cows' rumens are asymmetrical and expand more on one side after a good feed than the other.

Grain in leather is less like grain in wood and more like varying levels and directions of stretchiness. Think of the way the beast's hide moves throughout its life. The belly expands and contracts with each meal, plus has to stretch to accommodate every shape the creature contorts itself by flexing its back. The ribs expand and contract with each breath, but only really in "diameter" (at right angles to the spine) and not length. The shoulders/forequarters move a little in all directions as the big shoulder muscles move the animal around, and the hindquarters do the same but a little less. The neck is in constant movement in every direction and the spine only does a little flexing. This basically follows how different areas of a tanned hide stretch.

Cutting across a double shoulder (perpendicular to the spine) is definitely stretchier than along or parallel to the spine, all other things being equal. Whether it's "too stretchy" depends on the hide, the exact application (lady's fashion belt or framing carpenter's toolbelt?) and the individual craftsman's standards/judgment. I don't really like to do it unless the leather is particularly non-stretchy or it will be lined and sewn, both of which reduce stretch.

[tsunkasapa]

I believe Al Stohlman recommended 'setting the fibers'. Dampening the edge and running a canvas in one direction, to get the fibers more or less oriented. Then proceed to the burnishing. But the direction is totally up to you. As Matt said, there is no grain like in wood. But when I make my leather canteens, I do lay them out on the leather, so they are oriented in the same direction, so both sides stretch the same.