Redninja Report post Posted July 26, 2012 Hello Everyone, I have been only making simple mag pouches and I attempted a 45 ACP belt slide but I could not cut the belt slots in the leather properly. I punched a hole at each end and used the razor knife to slice between the hole. I was not impressed with that method, so could someone please explain a better method. Thanks Del Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shooter McGavin Report post Posted July 26, 2012 Thats how I started, and was never happy, as the hole punch tapered big to small, and it was impossible for me to match the angle of the punch with the angle of my blade, so the cut always looked bad. Next I went with a forstner(sp?) bit, which at least made a straight hole, but still the blade would wander and waver when I tried to connect the holes. This was at least better, and O could run behind the cuts with a small drum on the dremel tool and straighten things out. Once I started selling a lot of holsters, I bought a custom made punch from Weaver Leather and now I just punch the slots in. For the 80 or 90 bucks they charged, it has been worth 20 times that much to me thus far. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
camano ridge Report post Posted July 26, 2012 One method that works well is to measure and mark your belt slot, punch an appropriate size hole ( 3/8" works well) at each end of the slot, connect the slots using a wood chisel. If the inside of the slot needs smoothing use a small sanding drum on a dremel. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TwinOaks Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I use the chisel method too, sorta. I sharpened a putty knife, which is already very thin, so I don't have any distortion as the larger wood chisels can do. Just be sure to get a stiff putty knife! You can easily lay a ruler along the line between holes if you want to just use a knife. The trick with a knife is to never cut INTO a hole. Cut most of the way, turn the knife, and finish the cut from the other hole. That way, you eliminate the possibility of going to far and putting a small cut on the side of the hole. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
TacticallySharp Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I use a punch from Daddy's Leather Supply, best investment I have made. Saves time and produces a pro looking job every time. I also use it on my pancake style sheaths. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Matt Alsaker Report post Posted July 27, 2012 Thats how I started, and was never happy, as the hole punch tapered big to small, and it was impossible for me to match the angle of the punch with the angle of my blade, so the cut always looked bad. Next I went with a forstner(sp?) bit, which at least made a straight hole, but still the blade would wander and waver when I tried to connect the holes. This was at least better, and O could run behind the cuts with a small drum on the dremel tool and straighten things out. Once I started selling a lot of holsters, I bought a custom made punch from Weaver Leather and now I just punch the slots in. For the 80 or 90 bucks they charged, it has been worth 20 times that much to me thus far. Shooter....What weight is the leather you are going through with that punch? Some of the pancake holsters I've made are two pieces of 8/9 oz leather, so 16-18 oz thick. Will the punch easily get through that? Are you using an arbor press, or are you using a mallet to force the punch through the leather? I've wanted to go to a punch for cutting belt slots, but I've been afraid to make the investment in the event it would not work. Currently I use a drill bit to bore the ends, then a head knife to cut out the slot between the drill holes. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
katsass Report post Posted July 27, 2012 From the grump: I use the hole punch and chisel method also. I got a set of hole punches and a set of wood chisels (Chinese made) for very little money at Harbor Freight. The chisels probably aren't too good on wood, but for punching through leather they work well. With the various sizes of each, you can pick the width and length needed for about any slot you want, and one good whack with a 16oz mallet (or any suitably heavy and available object) punch right through. Mike Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Redninja Report post Posted July 27, 2012 I want to thank everyone for the great comments. I did not even think about the wood chishel method. Del Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Shooter McGavin Report post Posted July 28, 2012 Shooter....What weight is the leather you are going through with that punch? Some of the pancake holsters I've made are two pieces of 8/9 oz leather, so 16-18 oz thick. Will the punch easily get through that? Are you using an arbor press, or are you using a mallet to force the punch through the leather? I've wanted to go to a punch for cutting belt slots, but I've been afraid to make the investment in the event it would not work. Currently I use a drill bit to bore the ends, then a head knife to cut out the slot between the drill holes. I use 7-8oz leather. For the punch I use a fairly large deadblow hammer. Takes a couple of swing to get through. I might run down and have them sharpen it next time I'm around there. After a few hundred holes it's slowing down a little bit. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted July 28, 2012 Leather punch and cut to connect them for me. You just have to be VERY careful. And like was mentioned earlier, cut from each end to the middle. Then sand with the dremel. I need to look into some chisels since it seems to work well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
mncarpenter Report post Posted July 28, 2012 Texas dies made a clicker die for me for 65.00 bucks, 5/16x1 9/16- use it with a 1 ton arbor press, ended all my frustration with slots. they will make it as a mallet die also. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites