SooperJake Report post Posted September 7, 2012 Do any of you wet and then press down your stitching after machine sewing a holster? I saw it done on the Bianchi DVD set. Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
IngleGunLeather Report post Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) Do any of you wet and then press down your stitching after machine sewing a holster? I saw it done on the Bianchi DVD set. Jake I do Jake. A light spray and then I use a plastic bone folder to clean up machine marks. Sometimes a hammer finds its way in there too. Edited September 7, 2012 by CountryTrash Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Denster Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I case both sides of the stitchline put the front on my granite slab and tap the back with a coblers hammer. Closes the stitches and does a good job of erasing machine marks. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I do the same as Denster - but I hammer mine closed right after I dunk the holster in water for forming so the leather is nice and wet. I dunk it, punch the belt slots, edge the belt slots, then hammer everything flat. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted September 7, 2012 (edited) I do the same as Denster - but I hammer mine closed right after I dunk the holster in water for forming so the leather is nice and wet. I dunk it, punch the belt slots, edge the belt slots, then hammer everything flat. Hey Eric, Is there any specific reason you cut the slots while the leather is wet?...I used to do that and it seems i got alot of distortion when i tried it that way...Ive seen your holsters and you dont have any distortion, what is your trick?... Edited September 7, 2012 by renegadelizard Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted September 7, 2012 Well, I punch when wet because my slot punches suck. The shoulders are so thick that the leather was splitting at the ends of the slot if I punched when it was dry. I tried wetting the leather and found it punched a million times easier, and the splitting went away as well. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted September 7, 2012 Well, I punch when wet because my slot punches suck. The shoulders are so thick that the leather was splitting at the ends of the slot if I punched when it was dry. I tried wetting the leather and found it punched a million times easier, and the splitting went away as well. I havent had any splitting, but it sure does push and twist the leather like sheetmetal in a car wreck...Im using the cs osbourne and the slit i think is too narrow to begin with, especially punching through 16-18 ounce leather...i have a buddy making me a new slot cutter..1/16 inch walls, 1/2 tall..beveled on the outside to sharpen...5/16 X 1 1/2......im pretty anxious to try it out as i have stopped using the osbourne and went back to the old punch and chisle method.. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted September 7, 2012 Well, I punch when wet because my slot punches suck. The shoulders are so thick that the leather was splitting at the ends of the slot if I punched when it was dry. I tried wetting the leather and found it punched a million times easier, and the splitting went away as well. Oh yeah, one more question for you...i try to edge my belt slots...have you/do you do this?...any pros/cons you can think of? Well, two more things I guess...how is the Cobra doing with the mod?...mine should be here any time now... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I don't edge the top side, but I do edge the back side since the corners are much sharper than you get on the top side (since the punch basically bevels the top, making it hard to edge). I think the con to not edging is the sharp edge will probably get dinged up more quickly, making the slots look bad on the back. I'm loving the Cobra - It's unfortunate a bunch of them shipped without the mod (only Steve has any idea how many), but very glad Steve was able to find a solution that is so easy to apply. It's a great machine! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I don't edge the top side, but I do edge the back side since the corners are much sharper than you get on the top side (since the punch basically bevels the top, making it hard to edge). I think the con to not edging is the sharp edge will probably get dinged up more quickly, making the slots look bad on the back. I'm loving the Cobra - It's unfortunate a bunch of them shipped without the mod (only Steve has any idea how many), but very glad Steve was able to find a solution that is so easy to apply. It's a great machine! i think im gonna have to start trying your method there of just doing the backs...im pretty excited..ive hand sewn 7 holsters since i ordered it, and everytime i stick myself i get this dreamy look in my eyes...thinking of the day its at an end...ive got 5 more lined up that cant wait on the machine... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
particle Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I think 7 or 8 is about how many holsters I sewed by hand before I bought the Boss. HUGE difference once you step up to a machine. The stitching might not be a nice looking on the back, but 2-3 hours of sewing vs. a few minutes on the machine was well worth it to me. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
SooperJake Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I think 7 or 8 is about how many holsters I sewed by hand before I bought the Boss. HUGE difference once you step up to a machine. The stitching might not be a nice looking on the back, but 2-3 hours of sewing vs. a few minutes on the machine was well worth it to me. +1 on that noise. Although well done hand stitching looks the best. Thanks for the replies, guys. I figured most everyone was pressing the stitches but if you weren't, I wanted to know what your trick was for closing the holes. Jake Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted September 7, 2012 I took a phillips screwdriver, . . . A piece of 5/8" stainless steel round stock about 1 1/2 inches long, . . . Rounded and polished each end of the s/s piece, . . . Drilled a hole in the center of the round stock on the side (don't go all the way through), . . . Set the screwdriver in the hole and welded it in place with a couple of good heavy tack welds. It closes up the stitches super quick on a holster, belt, mag carrier, billfold, . . . whatever. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
renegadelizard Report post Posted September 8, 2012 I took a phillips screwdriver, . . . A piece of 5/8" stainless steel round stock about 1 1/2 inches long, . . . Rounded and polished each end of the s/s piece, . . . Drilled a hole in the center of the round stock on the side (don't go all the way through), . . . Set the screwdriver in the hole and welded it in place with a couple of good heavy tack welds. It closes up the stitches super quick on a holster, belt, mag carrier, billfold, . . . whatever. May God bless, Dwight Hey Dwight, Is there any chance we can see a picture of that thing? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Bobby hdflame Report post Posted September 8, 2012 Hey Dwight, Is there any chance we can see a picture of that thing? I'll second that.....pictures! Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Art Report post Posted September 8, 2012 Take either a leather hammer or a fitters hammer and polish the ends (fitters hammer) or the head (hammer) and use that to run along the stitch line. If you can't finish it, take it to a gunsmith and have him do it for you. Otherwise, I like the screwdriver round stock fix, but polish it up too. Art Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
