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Posted

Are you guys using this as a final finish? I'm not happy with the recent results of some of the mop and glo or super sheen. And I cut both with water 50/50. Looking at other finish options now. Thanks.

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Posted

Yes it is my final finish. Although, if I want a bit more shine I will apply a coat of Neutral Kiwi polish.

Craig Collier

~Grizzly Custom Knives~

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Posted

Craig,

Thanks. A bit more searching after I posted told me the same thing. I worked up a batch today. It seems to have a consistency close to my saddle soap. It gives when I push on it in the egg crates. I have a couple holsters in the works and I'm going to use this for the finish. I'm not big on shiny. It's just easier to beat up IMO.

  • 2 years later...
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Posted

So, is this finish good for protecting the dye from rubbing off on clothes or is there a different sealing finish that works better for that? Still new to this and discovering the pitfalls of some of the readily available finishes at the store. Thanks.

  • Members
Posted

So, is this finish good for protecting the dye from rubbing off on clothes or is there a different sealing finish that works better for that? Still new to this and discovering the pitfalls of some of the readily available finishes at the store. Thanks.

It should. I've used a similar mix on my back quiver. Heat the wax mix and warm the leather and apply mix in a circular fashion working it in as you go. Once dried heat again with a heat gun or hair dryer so that the leather absorbs as much as possible. Then let cool and buff with a soft cloth to remove excess. I did that and never had a problem with my quiver even with my sweating, movement, and weather conditions.

One thing though, if you are applying to dyed leather, let the dye dry and cure for a day or two before applying.

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Posted

I use a similar mixture of bee's wax, paraffin and neats foot oil for burnishing wax. I have even tried adding dye to mixture for burnishing. It did not work as I hoped.

I like to use Obenauf's for sealing leather after dying. It seals, protects and does not change the color of leather.

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Posted

Thanks. I imagine this has been hashed and rehashed from every angle imaginable. I appreciate the help.

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Posted

I usually use SnoSeal for my leather things that are outdoors equipment, boots, belts, quivers, holsters, whatever. If it's goes outside it gets SnoSeal. All that SnoSeal is is beeswax, conditioning oil and an emulsifier to act as a carrier to penetrate the leather. Beeswax provides an excellent seal that doesn't stink or rot like many others, adding neatsfoot oil works as a conditioner and a protection agent.

I tend to avoid synthetic seals as they usually fail me. I had a nice holster that was sealed with some ultra modern job promising the world. It lasted half of a camping trip before flaking off and trapping water inside the leather causing rot to happen. That's never happened since I started using beeswax seals albeit SnoSeal or homemade mix.

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Posted

I was given the recipe by a wonderful lady in either Oregon or Washington state several years ago, . . .

I use it for my "special" stuff, . . . if it has to be "old timey" or something like that. My parade rig has it on it.

From what she said, . . . it is an old, . . . old recipe, . . . been used for a long, long time.

The other finish I use, . . . is Resolene.

May God bless,

Dwight

If you can breathe, . . . thank God.

If you can read, . . . thank a teacher.

If you are reading this in English, . . . thank a veteran.

www.dwightsgunleather.com

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Posted

Dwight I don't suppose you'd be willing to share that recipe with the rest of the class now would you?

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