Adler 167?

[DrmCa]

From what I saw when deconstructing industrial made leather goods, there can be quite a big difference in thread size.

[LumpenDoodle2]

Have you set your motor speed to the minimum (5). That and setting the needle to stop in the leather means I can sew really, really, slow on mine.

Another thing I've found (yes, I'm a complete newbie to servo motors, and no doubt everyone else knows this), by pressing on the pedal with your heel, the needle lifts fully up.

I love my servo motor.

[frasermade]

Have you set your motor speed to the minimum (5). That and setting the needle to stop in the leather means I can sew really, really, slow on mine.

Another thing I've found (yes, I'm a complete newbie to servo motors, and no doubt everyone else knows this), by pressing on the pedal with your heel, the needle lifts fully up.

I love my servo motor.

Hi

Yeah I've got it to 05, with the 200rpm at minimum pedal. It's just practice that's required to get used to the pedal action, the machine action....all the action!

What do you mean by setting the needle to stop in the leather? I got the needle positioning version but to be honest I've tried fitting it and can't find a place to fit the angled rod to stop the sensor housing from rotating with the flywheel. I think I'll need to fab a bracket up and I don't have the time to do that at mo.

Tried the heel press thingy but doesn't do jot...I guess I need the needle positioner for this function!?

Decided I like the technique of stitching, turning the piece and stitching back over it - saves me faffing with the synchro of the reverse switch and keeps everything neater. I am having trouble with the backstitches unravelling themselves.

Thanks for all your help so far, very much appreciated.

[Trox]

Hey Tor

Many many thanks for your valuable tips. I'm really new to not just the industrial machine world, but the machine world in general, so I'm always open to tips!

I've still got a way to go before the Adler 167 is running perfectly, including aligning the reverse holes with the forward holes, swapping out the feed dog for the new one I just ordered, and generally getting the machine up to speed.

I plumped for the Jack JK-563A-1 motor from College-Sewing and I have to say I do very much like it. I would like it to go just that little bit slower but I think that's just my inexperience than a necessity. Silent running which is nicer than the clutch, and of course easier to handle! I'm sure once I am comfortable with using it, feeling for the reverse switch and getting all my timings together it'll be just fine for me!

You also wrote:

Is there a rule or a system to choosing how much smaller the thread you use in the bobbin, or is it just one down i.e. if you're using 15 in the needle, you use 20 in the bobbin?

Thanks again for all your help,

Best

Gordon

HI, so you did not buy the Japanese motor. I have yet to see a Chinese motor that is flawless, without any errors at all. Perhaps this is the one, sooner or later they will manage a good motor. Attach the rod for the synchronizer (pos.head) to the belt cover. Or the screw holes on back of the head for attaching a belt cover, if your machine is without a belt cover. If you attach it to the table the position will be unaccurate. (because the the machine head is moving in its rubber bushings) I guess you just have to make something to fix it, without any pictures of your machine I cannot tell. There should be something with the motor to attach it?

One thread class down in the bobbin yes, when you sew with the heaviest thread. When you use tkt 20 or less you can use the same top and bottom.

Slower? What is the slowest setting in r pm´s? Buy the Ho Hsing or a Efka.

When you are finished with installing motor and new parts, call a local Durkopp Adler mechanic and ask how much he wants to come and time (service and adjust it) your machine. A one hour service when they sew your machine off. Normally they take one hours pay. If you have someone close by, otherwise you can bring the machine head to them too. That's normally not expensive. Or you can fiddle around your self until you get it right. A pro mechanic will get your machine sewn off perfect and you can start using your time on sewing leather. Even where I live in the most expensive country, it's not that expensive to have it done. I never did this myself, but I have friends that has done it.

Even if your machine only has one issue (you might think so), you got to do all the machines adjustments and in the right order. It will take you a very long time to learn all this and get the right tools for it. (make them or buy DA special tools) Then, get it right the first time. A perfect Adler 167 is a very good machine. It does not have the highest foot lift, stitch length or take the heaviest threads in its class (like a new DA machine). But it runs like a Swiss watch and sews a beautiful stitch, quality is the best there is. And important, a DA mechanic knows what a perfect 167 should preform like. Then you will know that the sewing error it makes are operator errors and nothing is wrong with the machine. That's valuable information for every beginner.

Just my 2 cents.

Good luck and happy sewing.

Tor

[LumpenDoodle2]

As Trox says, the rod (2 styles in kit) should fit into a threaded hole near the handwheel. This would normally be used for the belt guard (at least on mine). Once you get an anchor for the rod, the setup is fairly easy. The instructions are not the best in the worls, but I've read worse.

I always prefer needle down stop as it guarantees I do not accidently move my work while checking the position etc (just my preference, possibly). The heel press then brings the needle up to remove the material. With the needle positioner, one pedal press completes one stitch 'cycle'. You can then practice with your machine, and try to just make that one stitch at a time, then biuld up from there.

As you say, it's just practice.

[Trox]

Well, there are no other way to set up a needle position motor; It has to stop with the needle down. You cannot have it to stop up every time you release the pedal (then it releases the seam). It has to stop down a bit after BDC, when the hook has catches the top thread. The top position is when the thread take up is on the highest point, and not when the needle is in the top position. I use Efka motors on my machine, but the needle position timing principle is the same on them all.

Tor

[LumpenDoodle2]

Coming from the sewing world, needle up stop machines are quite common. I would not have thought that the needle stopping position would be too much of a problem for the stitch. Otherwise, surely you would not have the choice of settings. :-)

The only problem I can think of is tension on the thread at the top position, and to release the thread, you just turn the wheel slightly passed top position. The feet would be holding the work in place anyway, so it would not be moving around.

It's just more practical to stop it down.

[Trox]

Well, I do not want to complicate this for these guys. Of course there are aplications like in a factory where they stop up. I am telling them what is best for what we are doing here. And this setting would work best for anything else than production work. You would need your needle to stop down for turning a sharp corner. Going slow,with several stops a seam.

Tor

[LumpenDoodle2]

You are absolutely right about the practicality of stop down being best. I was just pointing out that it is not 'absolute' or critical, and that included non factory settings. :-)