Wax Pot

[Red Cent]

I will be ordering a leather sewing maxchine in a week or so. I have done a lot of research and I cannot determine the need for a wax pot to add to the machine. I would like to know who has one with their machine and those who wish they had bought it.

[dirtclod]

I have one on my machine and wouldn't be without one. I cut a piece of sponge to fit inside the pot and pour my lube in, after reading about doing it on here i think. Anyway it's less messy. It sure helps in keeping your thread from getting melted into. The needle gets hot enough to do just that. I see smoke coming of mine pretty regular when i'm sewing something pretty thick

[Red Cent]

Thank you.

[Red Cent]

Dirtclod, what machine do you have and what are you sewing to make such heat?

Edited January 30, 2013 by Red Cent

[dirtclod]

It's a Juki / Ferdco Pro 2000 by Ferdco. I use 10/12 ounce leather 99% of the time any where from 2 to 4 thickness. But a needle can get hot enough to melt thread sewing just about anything.

Edited January 31, 2013 by dirtclod

[Red Cent]

I am ordering a Cobra 4-P. Talked (e-mail) to Steve about a common problem with most machines that sew heavy leather; needles stick anf lift leather. Steve said it is dry leather. Occured to me that the heat may be a problem. Guess not. In my research, I find that some hand wax their bobbin thread when filling the bobbin. I may wait and add later if needed.

Do you sew a long straight line and fast? How quick does the needle heat up?

[dirtclod]

Nobody that i know of waxes bobbin thread unless they have a old machine that uses wax in the pot. In that case both top and bottom thread is waxed the top thread is waxed as you sew and the bobbin thread is waxed when you wind a bobbin. Once in a great while i get a hide that is sticky but not very often and then it seems to be in just part of the hide.

The longest i sew regular is around 22 inches down both sides. But a needle will get hot sewing most anything. When i got my machine i didn't get the pot and melted thread into several times. After i got it i don't think i have after that and i have had my machine for 20 years or close to it. I would go ahead and get the pot.

[Red Cent]

Thanks Dirtclod.

[JAM]

Dirtclod (and everyone else),

Where did you find a wax pot for your machine?

[oltoot]

I have found that using thread lube on top of my Union Lock does a lot for me including eliminating finickiness with different threads.

[dirtclod]

Jam i bought mine from Ferdco, but i would think that one from Bob at toledo sewing machine, Steve at cobra, Ron at techsew or Grgg from keystone sewing would fit. Their copies of the machine i have.

[J Hayes]

Anybody care to share a picture of how their wax pot is setup? I'd like to see how the machine is threaded with a wax pot. It seems any of us that sew heavy leather would benefit from some thread lube.

Edited February 3, 2013 by J Hayes

[billymac814]

Here's mine. As you can tell I don't use it. I don't sew fast enough to create heat and the bonded nylon I use is pre lubed so I haven't found a need for it.

I do have a wax pot on my landis 12 and my McKay stitchers that use linen thread though.

If you decide you want one let me know and I'll sell this one. It'll fit the Cobra 4. This one is for the Cowboy 4500 so they are basically the same.

[dirtclod]

Here's pictures of my pot with a piece of sponge cut to fit inside the pot. A slot is cut in the sponge for the thread to run through.http://img.photobucket.com/albums/v285/dirtclod50/1WAX2-1.jpg

[Red Cent]

That looks easy to build. Simple container that the thread runs through.

[VanHornSaddlery]

Hello, I have a Fedrco Pro 200 and have used it for about 15 years. I use the lube pot continuosly filled with 100% pure virgin olive oil, won't stain the leather and when I am done I always oil with the olive oil also, won't rot stitches and in light coats I can get the color I want. Anyway, I do a lot of repair work, sometimes 3 to 4 sets of relined skirts a week, plu all the oddball dirty breastcollars, rotten headstalls that haven't seen oil in thirty yearss, etc. etc.. When doing repair work I always run one needle size bigger, make sure the lube pot is filled and get to stitching. I think using the lube pot all the time helps stretch out the time in between needle changes, repair work or new build. I recently purchased a cobra class 4 and set it up with lighter thread for headstalls and lighter tack work, it is a fair machine for the money, guess I am to darn picky, so.I have done some tweaking on it and think I have it sewing almost up to the Ferdcos standards but will be adding a lube pot next as soon as possible. Just my opinion, hope it helps. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to give me a shout.

Jake

VanHorn Saddlery

Ogallala, Ne

308-284-9928

[billymac814]

Jake,

Let me know if you want a lube pot for your Cobra. Ill sell mine, its brand new and never been used. Ill sell it for 75% of whatever the new cost is and ill pay shipping. It'll bolt right to the top of your machine.

[VanHornSaddlery]

I just sent you a message. Let me know what you want for it. Thanks. Jake

[Santo]

@billymac if no one else takes that pot ill take it

[Greystone]

this thread has gone to pot...lol did you sell its????

[Red Cent]

I bought the same pot as BillyMac. I use liquid saddle soap (contains glycerin) and I do not have any more skipped stitches. I purposely sew a little slow. No deadlines.

The thread goes into the pot at the point where the roll of thread sits. Inside the pot there is a post on the bottom with a hole to keep the thread submerged, comes out of the little hole on the other end, goes through the black spring on top and on to the normal places. Almost no friction or stress is put on the thread.

[Trox]

Hello, I have a Fedrco Pro 200 and have used it for about 15 years. I use the lube pot continuosly filled with 100% pure virgin olive oil, won't stain the leather and when I am done I always oil with the olive oil also, won't rot stitches and in light coats I can get the color I want. Anyway, I do a lot of repair work, sometimes 3 to 4 sets of relined skirts a week, plu all the oddball dirty breastcollars, rotten headstalls that haven't seen oil in thirty yearss, etc. etc.. When doing repair work I always run one needle size bigger, make sure the lube pot is filled and get to stitching. I think using the lube pot all the time helps stretch out the time in between needle changes, repair work or new build. I recently purchased a cobra class 4 and set it up with lighter thread for headstalls and lighter tack work, it is a fair machine for the money, guess I am to darn picky, so.I have done some tweaking on it and think I have it sewing almost up to the Ferdcos standards but will be adding a lube pot next as soon as possible. Just my opinion, hope it helps. Good luck. If you have any questions feel free to give me a shout.

Jake

VanHorn Saddlery

Ogallala, Ne

308-284-9928

Hello Jake,

I find your post very interesting. I have a 441 clone bought in Europe, because of its large needle system (794) it creates allot of heat when you speed up a bit. I have been using silicon lube and I do not like it at all, It is messy and do not mix with paint.

I have considered building on an air spot needle cooler, but have not done it yet. I have also tried other kinds of leather oil, but it makes the thread stick too much to the metal and causes occasional (many) skipped stitches.

That’s brings me to the original question, do you experience any stitch errors using olive oil. If so, is that the reason you use a bigger needle, to get closer to the hook.

Anyway, I love using natural product like that; I will definitely give it a shot.

Thank you

Tor

[GerryR]

Being new at this, I have seen two different approaches to lubricating the thread, one lubes the thread just ahead of the needle, and the second lubes the thread, basically, as it comes off the spool, allowing lubed thread to pass through all the mechanisms, including the tensioner. Having lube pass through the tensioner bothers me, as it seems it would be contrary to the purpose of having drag on the thread for the tensioning. I also read that getting thread lube on everthing is not necessarily good. Like I said, I'm new at this, so where is the best place to lube the thread?

[GerryR]

Any input about my remarks above?