Punching Holes With Weak Hands

[Matt S]

Ah understood. Sorry for the confusion.

[Catchndreams]

Maybe this

http://www.harborfre...ress-60238.html

And add this http://www.harborfre...ence-96395.html

With the fence set properly all your holes will be centered.

That or just get a good rawhide hammer to strike your Tandy punch, or HF has a 4 pound brass hammer that'd probably work real well.

I have an old table top drill press I plan on setting up with a fence for holes and spot setting

Jeremy

Yes,This will work great.

Do you mean something like this?

http://www.amazon.co...top drill press

I don't know a whole lot about tools. I do have the tandy leather punch kit already, so just have to find a drill press!

harbor freight will work better

[WyomingSlick]

OOPS Forgot to mention that if you are cutting holes for buckles, you should use oval punches in the approprite sizes for a more professional product . These are usually only availible in the hammer/mallet driven punches. Hate to say it: but avoid the Tandy ones, and try to get Osbourne or some other quality punch. I bought a Tandy one and the cutting edge "curled up" on me.

[bdt46]

If you will get Osbourne spring punches and don't try to muscle the punch through, but rotate it back and forth as you squeeze, they will punch the leather easily! I have a set of Osborne spring punches that I had over 40 years and they still punch through saddle skirting with ease. Just an occasional light sharpening keeps them working great. I have never even had to replace a tube!

[AriasByMoonlight]

Definitely going to try the Osborne! Just ordered one. Thanks so much!

[Dwight]

Arias, you said your dad has a drill press. That means he has some kind of a small shop. Have him help you build a simple lever press like the little drawing here. It should take a good half hour to make, . . . make it out of one 8 foot long 2 x 4 and a half dozen bolts and screws.

The key to making it work right is the back post, . . . it has to be made so it will allow you to adjust for longer or shorter punches, . . . and/or you can make it for the longest and use scrap wood to lift up the punch surface for shorter punches.

As soon as I get my new shop set up, . . . I'm making one of these especially for my maker's stamp.

Anyway, may God bless,

Dwight

[billymac814]

You could also get an arbor press, they are cheaper than a drill press. Harbor freight usually has them in the 30.00 range. You may need to have the ram drilled out to accept the punches or you can just place it under the punch. If your dad has a drill press he can drill it out or any machine shop should be able to do it. You can also have them add a set screw to hold them in place. They work great for makers stamps and a bunch of other things as well.

I had each side of my ram drilled with different sized holes so if I need one or the other I can just flip it. I also stuck a little ball of beeswax up in the hole to hold the tool in place instead of the set screw.

[WoodBoneAndStone]

The odd time I use a rotary punch I put another piece of leather behind the one I'm punching. It is easier to penetrate all the way through the first piece of leather without putting undue stress on the tool. It also prevents dulling the edge of the punch on the anvil side of the tool.

I prefer interchangeable tube punches that screw into a handle over one piece drive punches. For larger holes I have a great set of English made wad punches.

[billymac814]

I must be the odd man out because I almost always go for my spring handled punch before anything else. Only exceptions being belts bc I use an oval punch and everywhere the spring punch can't reach and when I have a lot of punching to do. Mine are the Osborne ones that are fairly expensive. I also used to use a cheap one from harbor freight, I like that it catches the holes and for lighter weight stuff it worked well but it doesn't stand up to heavy punching and will break.

I've been looking at a punch set like that, I like that they are self centering.