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  • Members
Posted

Hey all,

I've been doing some research on round and head knives. At first I thought that I would go with the Tandy brands just because they're close to me and reasonably cheap, but I've since reconsidered after reading some reviews. I've decided to save up and wait for a good quality one.

However, I'd kind of like a 'stop-gap' knife for cutting curved pieces and patterns. Right now all I have is a utility knife that doesn't do a good job on curves. I've looked at the Tandy Industrial Knife and I'm wondering if it would fit the bill.

Anyone ever used one? Pros and cons? Alternatives?

  • Contributing Member
Posted

You may find the blade to be too thin. I tried some of the curved blades like that for exacto knives and they had a little too much lateral play for clean lines. However, the thin blade is not a problem when it's properly supported. For most of my cuts, even curves, I use a little olfa knife...the type that you can snap off the end to expose a fresh tip.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

Strop your utility knife blade and you will be amazed at the difference. They seem sharp when new but they are really not that sharp. Ross

  • Members
Posted

Is there a trick, other than sharpness, to get a utility knife to cut curves smoothly?

  • Members
Posted

If you are cutting on the outside of the curve, cut in several stages, each cut being straight. Each subsequent cut removes a corner. Once you are pretty close the sanding, bevelling and burnishing should finish it off.

  • Contributing Member
Posted

The only thing I would call a 'trick' is knowing your own abilities. Work within your skill level, and as you work with the tools, your skill level will increase. If the curve is too tight for the blade you're using, cut it in several passes, using only the tip. There's no rule saying that you have to complete a cut in one pass.

Mike DeLoach

Esse Quam Videri (Be rather than Seem)

"Don't learn the tricks of the trade.....Learn the trade."

"Teach what you know......Learn what you don't."

LEATHER ARTISAN'S DIGITAL GUILD on Facebook.

  • Members
Posted

Thanks for the tips guys! What I'm gathering from this is that I just need to put in the effort to learn to cut curves with a regular utility knife. I'll try stropping the blades and see if I can get them sharper.

  • Members
Posted

Cut the first pass on the curve with your swivel knife because it is easier to control and then cut it with your utility knife or whatever you use. For straight cuts I use a rotary knife with a straight edge. For gentle curves the rotary freehand or scissors. For sharp complex curves swivel knife followed by exacto knife. Just remember on all of them let the knife do the work, don't force it. The leather will stretch and not be what you want. Experiment and find what works for you the best. Good luck

David

  • Members
Posted

Not sure if this will help, in the uk we can get a single head knife slightly cheaper than a double head knife will be much more than a stop gap knife.

As for cutting curves get as much scrap leather as you can draw odd shapes and just practice as much as you can hopefully you will get a feel for your

knife strop and sharp and please mind fingers.

http://www.josephdixon.co.uk/products/Single_Head_Knife.html

( not sure if this available in the U.S.)

Hope this helps,

JCUK

  • Members
Posted

Sorry one more thing as for quality, a head knife/round knife are a tool you will more or less use it everyday so get the best you can afford even if it means wait a while to save it will be better in the long run.

JCUK

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