When To Hand Stitch, When To Machine Sew

[MrLentz]

Hello, I seem to run into the same problem every time I want to start a project. I come up with the design, or find something online that I want to make...usually very simple at this stage. Then when it comes time to sew it up, I go right for my sewing machine. I want to make projects with it, but it usually never looks that great. A lot of times the thread will gett bunched up on the first few forward and reverse stitches, and in general, it is hard to get a perfect look. In fact it is easy to screw up with a machine and have to start over with new leather. So - I end up starting over and hand-stitching with waxed thread. It always looks way better and feels a lot stronger.

When do you usually hand stitch versus machine sew?

[Jazznow]

Machine sewing is actually hard to learn. You need lot of practice. Some thigs that helped me a lot:

Start sewing slow. It's harder to get a straight stitch line in slow speed but you learn to handle your machine.

Mark your stitch line, even if it's only straight. That way you see when you get off the course.

If you make a mistake and run off of the marked line, don't make tight curves or corners to get on the line again. Make a wide curve instead. Tat seems odd but 6 or 7 stitches slightly off of an straight line are not as eye catching as changing direction every two stitches.

Make sure the machine s setup correctly suitable or what you want to do. Wrong tension of thread or sewing 8 mm f veg tan with an shoe patcher machine will result in a bad look.

To prevent bulky look at theirst stitches try to hold the ends of the thread with light tension away from the stitch line (dunno if ths is possible with every machine. It works with Adler and singer shoe patchers.

Good Luck

[TwinOaks]

It sounds like you need a little more practice with your machine. The threads should be held ( for tension) for the first couple of stitches. Are you doing that?

As far as when to hand sew? When I have a small area that's difficult for a machine, or would require changing threads and readjusting the machine for just one thing. This is also one of the reasons most shops have multiple machines.

[MrLentz]

The threads should be held ( for tension) for the first couple of stitches. Are you doing that?

-- Should I be stitching two stiches forward while holding the thread for tension, then let go and do two stitches in reverse, then continue forward until the end?

-- Then after I cut the threads loose, is it typical to burn them to prevent it from loosening up?

Edited April 9, 2013 by MrLentz

[TwinOaks]

If you're not going to come back to the starting point, then you need to lock in the start of the stitch line. If you are going to come back to it, like sewing all the way around something, then you can just hold the first stitches and run back over them when you get back to it.

And yes, once you trim the threads, you can melt the ends. i've done it enough ( and I work with my hands so I have callouses anyway) thwt I don't feel any burn....I melt the ends until they get almost back to the hole and mash them down. As they're still mloten, they just press down into the other thread.

[Chief31794]

On starting the stitches I agree with everyone, hold a little tension on the threads. When I start, I turn the project around and sew 3 stitches to the beginning, then turn it back around and sew to the end then reverse to lock the end. If I sew forward then reverse then forward again it puts three stitches in the starting holes and can start to bunch up if you're not real careful. When I trim the beginning and end I melt the threads as Twin Oaks said. I do a lot of hand stitching but sew with the machine when the runs are long, 20" or less I normally hand sew.

Chief

[Dwight]

I tried burning the ends, . . . too often I got a ball of hard crust that would lace you open like a 14 year old with a switchblade.

I quit, . . . and I found out that once you apply a good finish onto those stitches, . . . they aren't going anywhere for a looooooong loooooooong time.

I cut em as close as I can with my little snippy nosed scissors, . . . and call it a game.

I do make sure that the ends are double stitched though, . . . sometimes just going around the project (holster) coming back to the same starting point, . . . doubling the stitches there. Sometimes starting out one direction, . . . doing 3 or 4 stitches, . . . turning and going back over them and finishing out the project at the other end of the stitch line, . . . again doubling my last 3 or 4 stitches (belt).

May God bless,

Dwight

[billymac814]

Machine stitch nearly everything as long as you have the correct machine for the job. If not then you're better off hand stitching it.

I melt my threads when I'm doing large runs, I have a fine tipped soldering iron mounted to my machine and I can trim the threads very easily with it and doing it that way doesn't make it have a sharp edge like you'd get using a lighter or something else. If I'm just stitching one or two things I just snip it with my scissors, as Dwight said, its not going anywhere if its locked in and finished.

[MrLentz]

once you apply a good finish onto those stitches, . . . they aren't going anywhere for a looooooong loooooooong time.

What do you consider a good finish? I know there are lots of options and a lot of topics on this, but just to name one or two - a satin version and a gloss example?

Until now I have just been using Fiebings Aussie Leather Conditioner. I'm trying to stay away from things that are a little toxic if possible. Obviously the conditioner doesn't really do much to the stitching though.

[Dwight]

Resolene is one, . . . Bag Kote is another.

I'm not really a big fan of Bag Kote, . . . but I use it occasionally, . . . Resolene is good stuff, . . . can be tricky and aggravating to apply at times, . . . but then so is a BLT with no mayo.

A light coat of Resolene will be more satin, . . . two or more coats can approach plastic looking, . . .

May God bless,

Dwight

[NVLeatherWorx]

And for all of the issues that everyone has pointed out above, I always hand-stitch. I learned this way, I made saddles this way, and I will die doing it this way. The stitches are stronger and a machine can not replicate the durability obtained by the saddle stitch.