Buckinger Report post Posted May 10, 2013 Hi, I am new to leather and dived straight in and bought a leather sewing machine. I'm loving it. However, I've made a few wallets and I am noticing a problem I don't know how to fix. If you look at the photo below, you'll see the bottom holes are not clean - the leather gets pushed out. On this wallet, I sewed the top holes from the top and the bottom holes from the reverse side, so you can see the difference. So the problem holes are what happens to the under side of the wallet when I am running it through the machine. This problem doesn't happen with all leathers. Just this buffalo calf. Any idea why this is happening and how I can fix it? Thanks, James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
EquusCustomLeathers Report post Posted May 10, 2013 At first glance, I would guess that maybe you have a dull needle..just a thought Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted May 10, 2013 This is normal. The leather has to be displaced by the needle. Not the same as fabric. Smaller needle, smaller thread can reduce the amount. Leather needles may help. You can pound the rough side down with a smooth faced hammer. Don't go at it too hard! Moistening the leather slightly after sewing and slicking it with a bone folder or slicker will also help smooth it out. Will also help remove feeddog marks. Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buckinger Report post Posted May 10, 2013 Thank you for your suggestions. I will try putting in a new needle. The needle size in the machine is a 140/22. I am using 69 thread. What would be the next size down and would I also need to use a different size thread if I use a different needle? I tried smoothing it down with a bone folder as you suggested, Tom, and it did help, but it still doesn't look as nice as the other side. Best, James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Northmount Report post Posted May 11, 2013 Bottom side will never look as good as the top side of the stitch. Needle and thread size chart at Toledo Industrial (and other places too) http://www.tolindsewmach.com/thread-chart.html Tom Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Wizcrafts Report post Posted May 12, 2013 If you are using a #22 needle with #69 thread, it is 4 sizes too big for the thread. A #22 needle is meant for use with #138 thread. #69 thread should be sewn using a #16 or #18 needle. Leather should always be sewn with a leather point needle. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Buckinger Report post Posted May 13, 2013 Thank you for the info. I did get some #16 needles and it is a definite improvement, but I just checked and they are universal needles, so I will get some leather point ones. Appreciate the help. James Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Tree Reaper Report post Posted May 16, 2013 Flip the wallet over and sew from the finished side towards the inside. Back up interior down. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
