How To Make A Double Layered Belt

[paprhangr]

need help. I have only made a few single layered belts, what are the steps to double layered belts?

do you skive the ends or single layer the ends. I have some 7 oz. that would make a good belt if doubled up.

[DoubleC]

I've never use 14oz to make a belt, that's pretty heavy duty. I usually just line mine with something it the customer wants and sew it on, like lamb or even thin embossed leather on the back. I'd think that heavy the bend would definitely need skived. Cheryl

[camano ridge]

When I make gun belts for concealed carry they are double layered and come out to about 1/4" thick, my western gun belts are made with around 10 oz and lined with around 4oz. on my concealed carry pant/belt gun belt I stop the liner just short of where the buckle goes. If you line the whole thing including where the buckle goes you will have to skive that area down to allow it to fold oaround the buckle.

Edited May 22, 2013 by camano ridge

[paprhangr]

Camano, you stop short of the buckle end, is the billet end doubled layered? if so, no need for skiving?

[TwinOaks]

Remember to NOT bevel the edges of the flesh side where the two halves will meet.

Cut the liner a shade larger than the front, then trim it to match the front.

Glue all the way to the edge.

Get your edges straight before marking a stitch line.

Do everything to the front that you'll be doing before assembly...except punching holes.

Don't sew while wet- if you're too close to the edge it can cause little bumps on the edge where the leather has deformed around the needle.

[TwinOaks]

Camano, you stop short of the buckle end, is the billet end doubled layered? if so, no need for skiving?

The part that goes through the buckle is single layered. If you wanted to, you could skive both belt and liner so it looks good, but really, once it's folded, it's hard to notice that there's no liner...just slick it down and seal it.

Trying to bend the doubled belt through the buckle results in having 3 thickness of the belt right in front....and if you're working with 1/4" layers.....ouch.

[Dwight]

Making a gunbelt to carry a full size 1911, . . . Colt or Smith .357 or some similar firearm, . . . will only be successful if it is at least 12 to 14 oz thick.

Making a 7 oz with a 3 oz liner will most likely result in an unhappy customer in about 4 months when the belt starts rolling over at the top and developing a curl in the back that would make Robin Hood's bow envious.

The best ones I have found come out right at .210 or shortly thereabouts thick. The outside piece is cut roughly 10 inches longer than the liner, . . . folded over to accept the buckle, . . . and chicago screwed into position.

Both layers are contact cemented together, . . . edges sanded, . . . beveled, . . . stitch gouged on both sides, . . . and stitched the full length and around the end of the tongue. I do not skive anything as I try my best to use two pieces of leather from the same hide, . . . side by side if it can be worked out.

When you dye the belt, . . . bend the buckle end over while it is still wet, . . . and form that end. Also while it is still wet, . . . do a rough "bending" of the belt to begin to develop the curve it will need to go around it's owner. I do it all with a dip dye process and latex gloves.

Trim the outside piece to perfectly match the glued together inside piece location. I actually use a home made punch on both pieces, . . . which forces them to match.

Stitch, dye, and finish, . . . you'll have a belt you or your customer will be proud to wear and use for years to come.

May God bless,

Dwight