true Sheridan Brown finish???

[whinewine]

I'm trying to do a true sheridan brown finish on parts for a purse. I know the steps are:

1] neatsfoot oil

2] neatlac as a resist

3] antique

4] tankote, bagkote or supershene

I applied a light, uniform coat of neatsfoot oil (the pure stuff, not the compound) on both sides with a foam brush & left the parts to dry overnight. This morning, the parts are all splotchy, as though not all the oil has dried or dried properly.

A] Is this normal?

B] If not, how can I correct this?

C] Or will it really matter in the final stages???

D] What color of antique is generally used?

I have never liked neatsfoot oil & so this is my very first attempt at a genuine sheridan brown finish.

russ

[TwinOaks]

I suggest wiping everything down with a deglazer. Even though you're putting oil on it, residual grime/gunk can effect the absorbtion rate. Other than that idea, I'm all ears.

[Hilly]

I'm trying to do a true sheridan brown finish on parts for a purse. I know the steps are:

1] neatsfoot oil

2] neatlac as a resist

3] antique

4] tankote, bagkote or supershene

I applied a light, uniform coat of neatsfoot oil (the pure stuff, not the compound) on both sides with a foam brush & left the parts to dry overnight. This morning, the parts are all splotchy, as though not all the oil has dried or dried properly.

A] Is this normal?

B] If not, how can I correct this?

C] Or will it really matter in the final stages???

D] What color of antique is generally used?

I have never liked neatsfoot oil & so this is my very first attempt at a genuine sheridan brown finish.

russ

I've only been working with leather for about a year, so I'm no expert. Here are my experiences....

I've never had neatsfoot come out splotchy as you described, unless it hasn't fully soaked in, or unless the application was uneven. If it were me, I'd wait another day to make sure it has "spread out" through the leather fibers, and if it's still splotchy after that, I'd apply another light coat using a piece of sheeps wool or a dauber, and use circular motion to apply. Wait another day afterwards before proceeding.

I would say that yes, this will show later on if it's uneven looking now.

I use Sheridan brown paste from Fiebings. It's the "traditional" antique to use. Can't give you a source for it though.

If you have access to an air brush, I would use super sheen to seal. Using tan coat with a sheeps wool sort of smears the antique around a bit, and you could end up with streaks. If you do use Tan Coat, work quickly, as it doesn not take very long to dry. Also, make sure and leave the antique dry for a day or so before sealing. This may help a bit with the streaking issue.

Good luck, and please post photos of your project!

Hilly

[pete]

don't apply the neats with a foam brush. It doesn't go on evenly enough, the foam creates bubbles and it's probably not heavy enough an application. Put it on with a sheep scrap in circular motions. Put it out in the sun to dry and age. then the RTC or neatlac- buff and then the sheridan paste. Don't have any? it's just med brown and mahogany mixed together .

pete

[Clay]

With the oil I would only put it on the grain side of the leather, the flesh side will absorb alot more causing there to be too much oil.

ClayM.

[whinewine]

Thank you all. I applied another coat, this time with a scrap of sheep wool, to even things out. So far, everything looks to be about the same color now. We'll see tomorrow. Then I'll let the pieces out in the sun to help evaporate the oil (maybe for several days, just to make sure, before I apply the neatlac?).

russ

[steveh]

Just to let you know, the sun will not evaporate the oil. One thing it will do is darken the leather. You may want to test this on a scap piece first to see if you like the result.

[Rawhide]

Whinewine,

If you do a member's search on BarryKing and look for his posts (he only has a few). He explains the Sheridan brown that you may be after.

Marlon

[King's X]

My mentor says that the most common mistake is that neatsfoot oil needs time to penetrate the leather and cover all of the pores. He recommends to apply the liquid and let is sit for a minimum of two days before proceeding with the rest of the recipe. It has worked for me and I cannot comment on any problems doing it this way. Good luck....I hope it works out.

[David]

As far as where to find Fiebings antiquing. Order it direct from Fiebing.

David Theobald