shooter55 Report post Posted June 8, 2013 Have had a few issues with the leather cracking when the loop straps are wrapped for snapping shut. I am keeping the straps straight during the build and finish. I am using Fieibings Oil based dye, Resolene, and Atom wax. Should I be treating the leather with Neatsfoot oil prior to dyeing? Thought maybe I should fold the straps while molding to eliminate that, and it works OK, but when you unfold them, they wrinkle. When you re-snap they look fine. Any help would be appreciated. 'Thanks, Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Dwight Report post Posted June 8, 2013 Hey, Shooter, . . . if you look on my website, . . . the holster in the upper left hand corner of the sample work page, . . . that IS my carry holster. I have others, . . . but this is the 95% most likely one. When I make these, . . . during the dye process, . . . I use a small pine board to simulate the 1 1/2 inch belt most folk will use, . . . while the leather is moist with the dye, . . . I fold, bend, and mold those straps to the general shape they will be when the item is done. Mind you, . . . the female part of the snap is not on the strap, . . . that is the last thing I do, . . . so they "spring" back some after molding. After the dye is dry, . . . generally a good 24 hours later, . . . I apply the resolene 50/50 mixture, . . . and I like the end product. The single downfall to Resolene, . . . it does like to wrinkle, . . . but as the kids say, . . . "ain't to biggee" ! Hope this helps, . . . whereabouts in Buckeye land are you? I'm within 10 miles of Marion. May God bless, Dwight Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shooter55 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 Thanks for the input Dwight. I have incorporated that into the process and as I said,works OK but didn't know if there was anything else to eliminate the "wrinkle" when it's straightened out. Appears not. I realize that leather is a porous material to start and when you coat it with a water type repellent, thats one of the downsides. Again, thanks for your input. I live about 30 west of Cleveland on Lake Erie. And may God bless you also. Tim Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted June 9, 2013 If the leather is physically wrinkling, adding some oil to the leather before finishing might help. I was having issues with the resolene cracking. I switched to a 50/50 by weight mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It turns into a soft oily paste a little thinner than saddle soap. I rub it onto the holster, then heat the leather so it soaks it in. The oil/wax will not crack. And it conditions the leather. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
shooter55 Report post Posted June 9, 2013 If the leather is physically wrinkling, adding some oil to the leather before finishing might help. I was having issues with the resolene cracking. I switched to a 50/50 by weight mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It turns into a soft oily paste a little thinner than saddle soap. I rub it onto the holster, then heat the leather so it soaks it in. The oil/wax will not crack. And it conditions the leather. Thanks chiefjason. Could also be attained by using some off the shelf conditioners from TLC or Springfield Leather, I am guessing too, right? Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
chiefjason Report post Posted June 10, 2013 From what I gather, it's an alternative to something like sno seal. Oil to condition and wax for protection from moisture. I usually do 2 coats. Rub it on and heat on both sides then do it again with a little thinner coat. Dyed leather takes it very readily. It wil also darken some dyes, but that actually improves the look of my most popular color. Vinegroon is a little tougher and I have to heat it longer or use the high setting to open up the pores and take the finish. I started using it because I was having issues with resolene finishes cracking. It would turn a black vinegroon piece into a weird gray with white spider web cracks. I just double checked on Springfield and they list atom wax as a finish. I wonder if oiling it then waxing it would help? Just leave off the final resolene coat. Let the atom wax be the final finish. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Boriqua Report post Posted June 14, 2013 My solution while not very elegant is I dampen the leather some before I bend it. Then I work the straps a fair amount just using my thumb and forefinger I work it from the top to the bottom. I just keep rubbing it hard.. It generates a good deal of heat and softens the leather. Has to be an easier way but it works well. Alex Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites