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Have had a few issues with the leather cracking when the loop straps are wrapped for snapping shut. I am keeping the straps straight during the build and finish. I am using Fieibings Oil based dye, Resolene, and Atom wax. Should I be treating the leather with Neatsfoot oil prior to dyeing? Thought maybe I should fold the straps while molding to eliminate that, and it works OK, but when you unfold them, they wrinkle. When you re-snap they look fine.

Any help would be appreciated.

'Thanks,

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Hey, Shooter, . . . if you look on my website, . . . the holster in the upper left hand corner of the sample work page, . . . that IS my carry holster. I have others, . . . but this is the 95% most likely one.

When I make these, . . . during the dye process, . . . I use a small pine board to simulate the 1 1/2 inch belt most folk will use, . . . while the leather is moist with the dye, . . . I fold, bend, and mold those straps to the general shape they will be when the item is done. Mind you, . . . the female part of the snap is not on the strap, . . . that is the last thing I do, . . . so they "spring" back some after molding.

After the dye is dry, . . . generally a good 24 hours later, . . . I apply the resolene 50/50 mixture, . . . and I like the end product.

The single downfall to Resolene, . . . it does like to wrinkle, . . . but as the kids say, . . . "ain't to biggee" !

Hope this helps, . . . whereabouts in Buckeye land are you? I'm within 10 miles of Marion.

May God bless,

Dwight

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Thanks for the input Dwight. I have incorporated that into the process and as I said,works OK but didn't know if there was anything else to eliminate the "wrinkle" when it's straightened out. Appears not. I realize that leather is a porous material to start and when you coat it with a water type repellent, thats one of the downsides. Again, thanks for your input.

I live about 30 west of Cleveland on Lake Erie.

And may God bless you also.

Tim

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If the leather is physically wrinkling, adding some oil to the leather before finishing might help. I was having issues with the resolene cracking. I switched to a 50/50 by weight mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It turns into a soft oily paste a little thinner than saddle soap. I rub it onto the holster, then heat the leather so it soaks it in. The oil/wax will not crack. And it conditions the leather.

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If the leather is physically wrinkling, adding some oil to the leather before finishing might help. I was having issues with the resolene cracking. I switched to a 50/50 by weight mix of beeswax and neatsfoot oil. It turns into a soft oily paste a little thinner than saddle soap. I rub it onto the holster, then heat the leather so it soaks it in. The oil/wax will not crack. And it conditions the leather.

Thanks chiefjason. Could also be attained by using some off the shelf conditioners from TLC or Springfield Leather, I am guessing too, right?

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From what I gather, it's an alternative to something like sno seal. Oil to condition and wax for protection from moisture. I usually do 2 coats. Rub it on and heat on both sides then do it again with a little thinner coat. Dyed leather takes it very readily. It wil also darken some dyes, but that actually improves the look of my most popular color. Vinegroon is a little tougher and I have to heat it longer or use the high setting to open up the pores and take the finish. I started using it because I was having issues with resolene finishes cracking. It would turn a black vinegroon piece into a weird gray with white spider web cracks.

I just double checked on Springfield and they list atom wax as a finish. I wonder if oiling it then waxing it would help? Just leave off the final resolene coat. Let the atom wax be the final finish.

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My solution while not very elegant is I dampen the leather some before I bend it. Then I work the straps a fair amount just using my thumb and forefinger I work it from the top to the bottom. I just keep rubbing it hard.. It generates a good deal of heat and softens the leather. Has to be an easier way but it works well.

Alex

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