How To Attach A Letter/number Stamp To An Arbor Press

[kevturbo]

Can anyone please help in clearing up just how to attach a letter/number stamp or hole punch to an arbor press. The internet indeed has no real guidance on how to go about this, and I am at my wits end trying to work it out for myself. if you can help me and other newbies out there understand this, then you would be helping a lot of people. As far as i can see, the end of the "arbor" is just a flat square, as per my picture attached, and there are no Youtube videos covering this point either.

Also, can I stamp a logo thats just over 2 inches long with an arbor press? And if so, how should I go about this please?

My first bridal leather hide arrived today, and it is a beautiful thing. I'm off to practice my strap cutting skills while I await any forthcoming help on this subject.

Thank you all in advance - this forum is a complete godsend to people like me...

Edited June 22, 2013 by kevturbo

[veedub3]

Have not seen any videos on the process but have read plenty of articles and they all say that they take the rod/ram (Square piece) to a machine shop and have them drill two holes. One in the center of the ram/rod that will accept your tool, and one on the side that will accept a screw so that you can tighten the tool in place.

[Hillbilly tim]

If you decide to drill them yourself, be sure to keep the drill bit square and plumb in relation to the ram or your impressions will be "deeper" on one of the sides. The hole in the bottom of the ram is for fitting the stamp handle in. The hole in the side of the ram will need to be tapped to accept the set screw that will hold the handle in position.

Good luck,

Bro Tim

[Tree Reaper]

I had the ram drilled and threaded to accept a drill chuck.

For the stamp use a piece of plate steel the same size or slightly smaller on top of the stamp.

It will help distribute the pressure over a larger area.

[kevturbo]

Thank you all for your advice. iI will indeed find a machine shop somewhere to do as you all say. At this stage, and having been an office bound graphic designer, I do not possess the equipment or skills to drill, tap and die the rod arm myself. Also, I am not sure where to find a "machine shop" to do the task, but I will look into this.

As for stamping the longer logo, a piece of solid steel the width of the logo makes sense. Should I get a two ton press for this, as it is over 2 inches wide, or do you think a one ton would suffice?

Perhaps a Youtube video should be made by the Arbor Press manufacturers on this subject would help. Meanwhile this thread will surely help many people out there to achieve a little clarity on this issue.

Thank you all for your help once again so far

Kevin

Nickelsafe

[Tree Reaper]

Bigger is better, you lose space when you start adding chucks, stamps and bases to stamp on.

A shop press is a better choice for a little more money.

[silverwingit]

Good advice. A few little tips: The hole in the end of the ram should be 3//8" in diameter. Not all tools are 3/8, but many if not most are. Those that are larger can be turned down to that diameter on a lathe. Those that are smaller will require a split bushing to bring their effective diameter to 3/8". I have my ram's side hole tapped for a thumb screw so I don't need a wrench to use it. But... I don't think even a 2-ton press will do the job on veg-tan with that large of a stamp. And, I know it won't work on bridle leather. You may need a hydraulic shop press for that.

[Northmount]

I have used a 1 ton press on a plate 1.5 x 2.5" with no trouble.

The hole in the ram can be .5" dia. The side screw will always push the tool you are using over against the opposite side and stay aligned vertically in the ram. The place this won't work is if your bottom anvil or plate is fixed and centred. Then the top tool needs to always be centred too. Then you need a bushing like noted above.

Tom

[BIGGUNDOCTOR]

Forget the hole, and have it milled like a vee block. That way you can clamp any diameter, and have it straight. I had posted this suggestion a few times.. I may have to mill one myself so that I can post a pic of what I mean.

[lwm803]

I just bored a hole in mine (3/8 inch if I remember correctly) then cross drilled for a 1/4-20 set screw. Any diameter shaft that is not too large to fit can be clamped vertical, straight and solid to the side of the hole by the set screw. If bottom dies are used they are simply placed on the bottom plate and lined up with the ram manually so there is no need for bushings or adapters. I use mine mostly for setting snaps/grommets and stamping with 3d stamps. The handle for my hole punch is a little too snug a fit so I have considered taking the hole out to 1/2 inch but for now I just use my drill press to (not running) for punching holes.

I drilled the hole myself on an old and worn Harbor Freight drill press. Even with careful setup and attention to detail the first attempt came out less than perfect but thankfully there are two ends to the ram and my second attempt worked out just fine. The extra hole has caused no harm.

[EmbossingDieCompany]

I don't recommend drilling a hole in the ram at all. I work with a lot of large and odd shaped stamps (up to 10-12" wide sometimes) and IMHO you are better off not attaching the die to the ram.

I use a 1/2" thick piece of acrylic as my "base", then I simply lay the leather on top of the acrylic, then I position the stamp exactly where I want it on the leather, then "press" multiple times, if necessary. As an example, I've attached a drawing of an oval die with eight ram impressions. I simply slide the acrylic (without touching the leather or the die) to position the die under the ram.

With this technique, the die is perfectly placed on the leather, and you get a deep and even impression for the entire image. And even when the die is 4" wide or bigger, it still takes less than one minute to press it 8-10 times.

[Tree Reaper]

You can still do that with a hole in the ram for makers stamps but he wants something for letters and number stamps.

[kevturbo]

Thanks for all the advice. In short then, no hole is needed of printing a 2 1/2 " long logo, as per 'EmbossingDieCompany's post, just an acrylic base. I could drill a 1/2" hole and tap and die it for number stamping, but first I must find a machine shop which is not as easy as it sounds in the UK. I'm sure I will eventually track one down, but we're all about being a 'service industry' now, rather than a manufacturing industry today. Pretty sad really, but it's not like the states where everyone has a drill press and lathe facilities. I live in London with 10 million compacted people, but that's my choice I suppose. I'm sure I will find one eventually. About 'BiggunDoctors' suggestion for milling to a v-block - well, I would not know where to start, or how to use it, so I'm stick with finding someone with a drill press for now. i think a posted pic of this would help as I can't envisage how this would work to be honest.

'Silverwingit's suggestion of a hydraulic shop press is pretty cool too, as I'd never seen one before - only clicker presses and arbors. And yes, they are very reasonable, even for a 6 ton, so thanks for that. i've found I can get hole punch dies to fit my standard hand rivet press, from green grizzly too, so I've ordered that for the moment as it's easy and a cheap solution. At least for hole punching. However, i can see no way but to hand stamp an oblong punch, as the top is too wide to fit into even a bored arbor. Any tips on this would be welcome, and thanks for all the comments so far. I feel far better informed now, and more confident with which purchases to make too.

Oh, the Palmgren 61101 One Ton Arbor press comes pre-drilled for letter/number stamps, but it seems no one is impressed with the magnet holder as it reportedly breaks quite quickly. Still worth a mention though.

Hope this thread helps others out there as much as me...

[Northmount]

I chucked mine in a 4 jaw chuck on a wood lathe. Lined it up and drilled the 1/2" hole running the lathe at a slow speed and adding a little cutting oil. (It was too big for my mini metal lathe). Worked out quite well. So if you know someone with a wood lathe, he might be willing to help. I laid out a couple old towels to catch the oil drips and cutting so there's no oil on my lathe.

Tom

[lwm803]

I don't recommend drilling a hole in the ram at all. I work with a lot of large and odd shaped stamps (up to 10-12" wide sometimes) and IMHO you are better off not attaching the die to the ram.

I use a 1/2" thick piece of acrylic as my "base", then I simply lay the leather on top of the acrylic, then I position the stamp exactly where I want it on the leather, then "press" multiple times, if necessary. As an example, I've attached a drawing of an oval die with eight ram impressions. I simply slide the acrylic (without touching the leather or the die) to position the die under the ram.

With this technique, the die is perfectly placed on the leather, and you get a deep and even impression for the entire image. And even when the die is 4" wide or bigger, it still takes less than one minute to press it 8-10 times.

Good point, I agree that the hole is not necessary for that type of stamping. I have a 3/8" thick aluminum base attached to mine and often use a 3/4 in think aluminum bar on top of that, just because it is handy (or otherwise in the way). I do not attach the 3D stamps that I use to the ram but the hole in the end has never presented a problem. Without the hole in ram I would have to shorten the handle of any setting tools that I use with the press. But I do have a similar arbor press in my garage which I have not modified and a 20 ton hydraulic press as well if I need a press with a solid ram. The modified press is in my woodworking shop which is where what little leather work I do gets done. I have considered modifying the 20 ton as others have done but so far I still need it to function as designed for pressing mechanical parts together/apart and straightening bent stuff/bending straight stuff.

Edited June 25, 2013 by lwm803

[Tree Reaper]

They have two ends, you can always drill one and leave one.

[Harley Corns]

I just saw this thread ...and thought I'd share a Youtube video I found on the subject.

DIY - Modified Arbor Press for Rivets (eyelets) - kenpoist7.mp4

I'm in the process of modifying my 1 ton from Harbor Freight...for use much like lwm803 described( rivets,snaps and 3D and letter stamps)

I drilled the ram...and turned a shaft with the appropriate diameter(with an O ring slot) on the end to receive the 3D stamps. The O ring holds the stamp in place during the process.

Next my plan is to make adaptors that will work for each of the different size of rivets, and snaps...and probably a hole punch as well.

When all is finished.... i predict my total out of pocket will be less than $100.

Edited June 25, 2013 by Harley Corns