Stitching with the Artisan Toro 3000

[Randyc]

I stitch my holsters with an Artisan Toro 3000. The machine does a great job. The only problem I'm having is the skeg on the bottom of the needle bar. I assume it helps lay the stitch down. The problem I'm having is the skeg leaving an ugly little groove when I start stitching. It's also a problem when I stitch a tight curve or make a 90 degree turn.

I've thought of pulling the needle bar off, grinding off the skeg and using a groover to lay out my stitch lines.

Are there any other options?

Also, which presser foot and needle plate is prefered by you guys for holster making? Thanks!

Randy

[BruceGibson]

Randy,

I've got the Toro 4000P, and it does the same thing. Once the boning/molding is done, it's usually not an issue. I've also found that if the little grooves are still visible when it's molded, they can be rubbed out at the same time.

I wouldn't worry too much about it.

[Trevor]

Hi there Randy

I have a Toro 3000 and decided to grind off the skeg as you have talked about. It leaves an annoying mark so I decided to get rid of the thing. Sews beautifully now with no marks.

If you suddenly decide that you needed the groove just pick up another foot.

Remember that if you do grind it off to polish the bottom of the foot nice and shiney with no trace of the skeg.

Cheers

Trevor

"Way Down Under"

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I have a "Tim Taylor Complex" when it comes to guns and machinery, so I can't leave them stock. I ground the stitch setting ridge off of my needle bar and even rounded and tapered the edge of my walking foot so it doesn't leave a foot print. (I also upgraded the servo motor and replaced the lamp's bulb with a brighter model ).

As Bruce mentioned you can clean it up while you're boning the leather, but I make enough holsters that I wanted to save some time by skipping that step. If you're gonna make anything from dense materials you should definitely use a stitch groover, but other than that you're good to go.

If you're a little squeamish about cutting and grinding on your machine, Artisan sells a needle bar that's already flat on bottom, along with several plates and feet that will meet your needs depending on what you're trying to do. If you sew the holster before you mold and bone it, a stock plate and walking foot will work just fine. If you sew the holster after you shape it, then you'll probably want to use a holster plate and a slimmer walking foot (so you can get right up against the edge of the molding).

[MattW]

I also suffer from the need to change things to my liking.

I ground off the keel on the needle foot and reduced the presser foot to a presser "toe"

I find it easier to do tricky stitching, stay close to molded areas, and leave a minimal footprint that i incorporate into the border.

(I do have replacements handy if needed)

The thread is coates 275 in buckskin color

[esantoro]

I also suffer from the need to change things to my liking.

I ground off the keel on the needle foot and reduced the presser foot to a presser "toe"

I find it easier to do tricky stitching, stay close to molded areas, and leave a minimal footprint that i incorporate into the border.

(I do have replacements handy if needed)

The thread is coates 275 in buckskin color

Hi Matt,

Where do you buy your buckskin Coats?

[Srigs]

Randy,

I've got the Toro 4000P, and it does the same thing. Once the boning/molding is done, it's usually not an issue. I've also found that if the little grooves are still visible when it's molded, they can be rubbed out at the same time.

I wouldn't worry too much about it.

I have not ground down the foot but have thought about it. But like Bruce said, when you hot wet form it they generally don't show up so I have not. I might grind down the back half of it to reduce the size but that is about it.

[Randyc]

Thanks for the responces guys. In lieu of removing the needle bar skeg, I wonder if I can possibly adjust the needle bar so the skeg doesn't make such a deep depression? I may have to call Artisan on that one.

Randy

[BOOMSTICKHolsters]

I wouldn't go that route unless you want the material to slip and the stitching to get spaced unevenly. Still, the folks from Artisan know a lot more than me so see what they say about it.

[Billsotx]

Thanks for the responces guys. In lieu of removing the needle bar skeg, I wonder if I can possibly adjust the needle bar so the skeg doesn't make such a deep depression? I may have to call Artisan on that one.

Randy

Randy,

A while back I saw a thread over there under the sewing machine section about Artisan customer service and they named a guy there that's a wizard with set-ups and trouble shooting. Sounds like he's been down the road more than once. There was a bunch of talk in that thread and everyone was satisfied with customer service. He might be worth the call. I'm thinking about an Artisan and I'm listening to you guys. Keep sharing, I'm all ears.

~Bill