Consew 206Rb Skipping Stitches With Soft Leather

[Andrew Chee]

Hello all. I have a Consew 206RB that I've set up with 69 thread and an 18 needle. Most of the leather I sew is in the 5oz+ veg tan range and the machine works just fine. I am making a bag right now out of very soft 3oz leather and I notice the machine is skipping stitches a lot. I think the problem is that the leather is so soft that the needle is lifting the leather on the upstroke thereby cause the lifting. In some areas I will use a double toe outer foot to hold down the leather on both sides while the needle is lifting out and that helps a little but it still skips stitches. I've resorted to putting a piece of masking tape and sewing over that to keep the material down. This is on the inside of a turned bag so that's not a big deal visually.

At some point I will have to top stitch the edge of the bag and at that point I cannot use tape nor can I use a double toe outer foot. Any suggestions on what I can do to avoid skipped stitches in the situation? Is this simply a limitation of a combination feed walking foot machine? Will I need to go to a regular non-walking foot machine to do something like this? Any ideas would be appreciated. Thanks.

Andrew

[gottaknow]

On machines that are used to using heavier material and needles, the feed dog hole is usually the first thing I look at. If you take a size 22 needle and place it in the hole and there's still a fair amount of room, that's likely your problem. True, some leather likes to move up and down with the needle, but if your feed dog hole is too big with thin leather, you're going to get skips. I would order a set of dogs with a small hole for sewing lighter leather. They are fairly easy to switch on your machine.

The reason I do this first is because if your decending needle pushes your leather a bit down the hole you're really cutting down the size of your thread loop for the hook to pick up. If you can't stop it with the foot you need to use and you're going to lose some of your loop there, you can all but eliminate it on the down stroke with a small feed dog hole. Other than that, you can try rotating your needle just a bit towards the hook to give it a better angle at what loop you are forming, but in my experience, you'll still get skips.

Regards, Eric

[Andrew Chee]

Thanks Eric. I guess I can look around for smaller feed dogs but I'm not sure where I'll find one for that machine...is there a different type of machine you would recommend for this type if situation?

Andrew

[Wizcrafts]

I keep a straight stitch machine, with a servo motor and a big variety of presser feet, for such projects.

A few nights ago I used my Singer 31-15 (a straight stitch, bottom feed only machine) to sew a lining that had separated, inside a pair of leather pants. I then sewed the fixed lining between two layers of garment leather. The machine was threaded with #69 bonded nylon and I had a flat, roller foot equipped attached to the presser bar. The little rollers allowed both the satin lining and garment leather to feed without any binding whatsoever. The machine is equipped with a medium tooth feed dog and a round throat plate hole big enough to clear a #20 needle (I only used a #18 needle for this job).

My National walking foot machine might have eaten the lining, because of the way the feet work and the largish oval hole in the moving feed dog.

Edited August 28, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[Danno3]

Wiz,

If someone anticipated being in this situation again, would a needle feed machine be just as useful for such purposes? (Singer 212 set up as single needle)

I am considering selling the 212 and 29-4 to purchase a cylinder arm machine.

[Andrew Chee]

When it comes to non-walking foot machines, does needle feed give you as much advantage as it does in a walking foot machine?

Andrew

[Wizcrafts]

Wiz,

If someone anticipated being in this situation again, would a needle feed machine be just as useful for such purposes? (Singer 212 set up as single needle)

I am considering selling the 212 and 29-4 to purchase a cylinder arm machine.

Yes, a needle feed machine, slowed way down, with a slotted Teflon or roller equipped presser foot will serve well for most flat work and linings. Just make sure you buy feet with a long slot between the toes. Some straight stitch feet just have a fixed position hole, which would be a disaster for you. Also, most of those machines are meant to sew shirts and have small needle holes and dog teeth.

If that machine doesn't do what you want, or runs too fast, sell it and buy a common, manually oiled straight stitch with a fixed position needle.

Edited August 28, 2013 by Wizcrafts

[Danno3]

Thank you Wiz!!!!

[CowboyBob]

Andrew,Are you sure the needle is as close to the hook as you can get? Does this machine skip in thicker material much? We do have a feed dog w/a smaller hole if you need one.

[Andrew Chee]

The machine does not skip on firmer material. I can sew canvas on that machine that is thinner but firmer and it doesn't skip. Only happened with this soft chrome tan leather. I would be interested in trying a feed dog with a smaller hole. I'll try calling touts later. Thanks.

Andrew

[tnawrot2]

The needle is making too big of a hole, try a 16 needle.

[zimitt]

I realize I'm way late to this game, but maybe this could help others.

I don't have the heavy duty leather machine. I sew on an old Elna SU that will surprisingly deal with some very heavy leather, quite well.

I was having the same problem of skipping stitches and the leather catching on the up stroke, lifting the presser foot and bouncing.

Took me the longest time to resolve, but I'm pretty pig headed.

I finally found a solution that worked great.

I removed the needle and used 600 grit sand paper, sanded the length of the shaft and the entire surface of the needle.

This creates a matte surface as opposed to a glossy sticky surface and was just enough to allow the needle to slide through the leather without getting hung up and lifting the work on the up stroke, resulting in the bottom thread not catching, and a skipped stitch.

Also because there is not the drag on the needle and thread, there is a better tension result.

I equate it to the difference between sliding your finger along a glass surface, and a brushed stainless steel surface.

What also helped was moving the position of the needle to the far right of left of centre. If you have that option.

Hope this helps someone.