Seeking Help From The Experts

[JulioR]

I am looking for the leather gods on this forum for some help.

I am starting a small t shirt line as a side job for some extra money. The process in which I want to stitch the leather onto the tshirts has already been figured out, tested, and approved. The problem comes in when I test wash the garment in the washing machine.

First Problem: The leather tightens up and temporarily shrinks as a result of the washing / drying process.

Second Problem: The leather stains the test garment (I use white tshirts to test to see how much staining occurs).

Now come the variables. I bought a square foot of chestnut tanned nubuck leather and used cut out pieces to stitch onto the tshirt. I understand that the tanning of the leather is what stains the t shirt.

I went to the local family owned leather/ tanning store in my area where the employees as well as the owner are very knowledgeable and experienced in what they do. They told me that what I could do to stop the staining and shrinking would be to add beeswax to “waterproof” the leather. However, the beeswax would was away after a couple of washes and probably ruin the garment once the customer of my t shirt washes it a couple times. Their other professional opinion was to use un-tanned leather for my work. However, the un-tanned leather doesn’t match the color I would like to use.

My questions for the experts on this forum are:

1) Are there un-tanned leathers I could purchase, ready to stitch to garment, that match or come close to the color of chesnut (Orange brown)?

2) Is there a process I could put my tanned nubuck through that could “lock” the tan so it doesn’t wash, fade, or stain?

My biggest reason for my frustration is that I know some jean companies use leather on their jeans with their logo on it. Now maybe I am naïve and they use some realistic looking vinyl or pleather on their jeans, but I assume that the process of using leather for washable garments has been done before without staining the garments they are stitched on.

If the leather experts are reading this I appreciate any help you can provide me with, even if you can point me to the right direction.

I must add that I am pretty good “googling” my problems away but I’ve come up with nothing during my searches and realized that the only way to find a solution to my problems would be to seek help from the people who do this for a living.

Thank you in advance,

-J

[JulioR]

**I must add that I am looking to use the highest quality leather which might explain why I am using high quality nubuck for my project

[Geneva]

You will not be able to do what your want to do with leather and T shirts. Leather does not wash.

[JulioR]

You will not be able to do what your want to do with leather and T shirts. Leather does not wash.

Thats so disfortunate.. How do you think the jean companies do it? I'm guessing it must be some good looking pleather?

[DoubleC]

I think you could get asway from the problem if you used veg tanned leather like the jean companies and applied several coats of finish on both sides. Saddles, rifle slings, purses, all kinds of things get wet and don't destroy or self-destruct. I would Buy Herman Oak Veg Tanned, quality dyes like fiebings in a medium tan (which has red coloring to it and actually looks red/orange and seal it several times with resolene and let it dry well in between the finish coats. Use your resolene 50/50 water and apply several light coats and try that. At Springfield Leather Company you can buy just one sq ft of HO so you won't be out a lot of money while you practice the technique. And use the SAME t-shirt LOL with the practice pieces sewn different places so you don't go broke.

Also if you could deal with black leather, you could use vinegaroon on the HO and I'm pretty sure after buffing and drying, with the resolene finish it wouldn't bleed. Cheryl

PS I'm not leather god, just a smuck learning like everyone else.

Edited September 16, 2013 by DoubleC

[bdt46]

Why don't you call a tannery, and talk to them about your needs and how you want the leather to perform. They will know exactly what you need to do and the feasibility of your project. They will also give you pricing, minimum quantities, etc. I would think this would be the easiest way to get all your answers from people who know

[Tree Reaper]

I think you want a bicast product.

http://www.allcitylabel.com/leather/index1.htm

[Dwight]

There is a product, . . . called Teslin, . . . I believe it was originated by PPG.

It thicker versions, it resembles leather, . . . and can be dyed any color you want.

You CANNOT tear it with your bare hands (as a joke, some guys get business cards made fromit, then dare you to tear them up).

Anyway, . . . you could cut it with scissors, . . . sew it, . . . wash it, . . . the whole deal, . . . and a lot of folks would not know the difference.

May God bless,

Dwgiht

[JulioR]

Wow, thank you so much guys for the help and advice. I think Im going to try the process DoubleC talked about.

My philosophy in my little company is for everything to be handmade.

If that doesnt work Ill do the Teslin method Dwight is speaking of.

If all else fails, Ill go with the bicast products which is a great idea.

The experts solved my problem, thanks again!

-J

[Roger J]

I'm a brand new newbie beginning beginner, so my opinions are not based on any experience.

What if you wash your leather seperatly a few times and see if at some point it stops reacting. If that point is ever reached, then try sewing it in place and repeat washing experiment.