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I really like all of the bags though the first really catches my eye. I too have read about how saddle stitching is where it's at though I haven't done it yet.

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Bigorange, I saw other conversations on this forum swearing that if you break a stitch when you use needles and saddle stitch, it will be broken but it won't unravel. They also thought that a lock-stitch with a sewing awl would unravel immediately all the way along the seam. Now, I haven't tried saddle stitch and needles yet (though I've bought the stuff), but I absolutely know for sure that the sewing from the lock stitch won't unravel as soon as it is cut. I had to take some out, and I ended up having to cut every stitch and wrestle the thread out. At least with veg tanned leather, lock stitch seems to be very sturdy.

However, that said, I'm still inclined to switch to saddle stitch, since it seems to be what everybody uses.

CJDevito,

Cool! I was curious about what it would look like in chrome tanned. Of course, the original CK is chrome tanned, but I think it's the oilskin (or whatever) that practically stands up by itself. I'll be curious to see what you change on the next go around!

I understand you were refering to a awl that carries the thread as well I was thinking of an awl used to punch the hole while saddle stitching I am clear ! keep up the great work

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Posted

Near as I can tell he sometimes uses a heavy latigo but most often seems to stick with crazy horse oil tanned that, based on the colors, he's probably buying from Zack White. The latigo is pretty heavy weight, but the crazy horse tends to be about 5oz -ish, so mid weight. This leather I'm using is definitely lightweight with a medium hand, so it's got some body when it's empty but it definitely crumples up when it's not full. If I were going to use this weight on this bag again I'd probably put a piece of bontex covered by leather across the interior bottom to stiffen it up some and help it hold it's shape on it's own.

Next go round the top of the side pieces get extended a few inches, so they can fold inwards under the flap when it closes - help keep everything in the bag. The flaps coming off the sides of the bottom as I currently have them are only about 2.5" tall, with a slot cut into them.... when the strap runs into the bottom hole on the side, it goes through that slot and then is attached to the bottom of those side flaps with a pair of chicago screws on each side. Next time I'll make those flaps 4" tall and cut two slots in them, so the side strap runs through both before coming out and going around and through the bottom (I didn't do that on this one, I used two seperate straps that only run the lengths of the sides).. That will make it more secure, help the sides keep their shape some when the bag isn't full, and I can probably get away with using two fewer screws that way. If I can get the bottom stiff enough to hold it's shape I'll probably add bag feet in the corners.

I'll be interested to see how the bag feet at the corners work. I haven't tried that yet.

Thanks, Vhakra and Firdaus! My brother started a messenger bag this time last year when he came to visit us. At Thanksgiving I rescued it from him and brought it home to finish. It seemed like a shame for it to sit half-finished! Especially as it's that lovely oil-tanned leather.

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Posted (edited)

A customer liked the sewn chrome tanned bag, but wanted it in backpack form. I sewed it up over the last couple of weeks. In retrospect, I should have charged an extra hundred for the straps alone, but ah well. I've never made sewn straps, and now I know exactly how much work it is.

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Edited by MonicaJacobson
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Posted

Love the first bag, I've had a bag that I was working on very similar to your first one, but wanted to know how did you finish the sides of the bag, did you weave the handle/strap through the bottom or use any type of glue to hold the sides together? I'm at a stopping point because I want to weave the straps in but don't want to mess up either because its a nice piece of leather.

Thanks in advance.

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