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TXAG

I Guess If It Helps Sell Your Stuff...

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"Companies" like this irk me because you can tell they dont neccesarily care what their business is as long as its a business. They just decided on leather wallets. Start a Kickstarter, reguritate some bullshit about what a quality leather product should be, and have someone else make it. They need stupid tag lines like that because they personally have no idea what they are doing.

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I'll preface my comments by saying thay I hand stitch everything. That said, the arguments for hand-stitching aren't perfect. A machine can be more consistent than a human at cutting, sewing, spacing, and thread tension. Most of these debates assume identical products, with the only difference being hand- vs machine-stitched. However, FOR THE TIME INVESTED, a machine could triple-stitch the seam, or more... and use heavier-dutythread than could easily be done by hand. Now, a single row of stitching may be better as a saddler stitch, but you'd have a hard time showing that one row of saddlers stitching would beat multiple rows of more consistent machine-sewn lockstitch. People use machines to speed up the work. I recently saw an old leather workshop with specialized burnishers and polishing wheels set up. The argument for hand stitching is similar tothe argument that building a house without power tools is superior. Reality seldom cooperates by being so simple. Three areas where hand-stitching shines: 1) repairs, 2) very unusual shapes that machines can't handle, 3) authenticity. Some people place value on a piece being done by hand, but they are the minority. What often happens after people start sewing by machine (think manufacturers) is they realize theycan just give a warranty and skip the triple stitch -- bam, bigger profits. They can also stop using full-grain leather -- bam, bigger profits and more consistent results (e.g. with top-grain, having been corrected). Knowing each piece is made by hand inspires many, but this can mean made by hand using machines as well. The key for hand stitchers, to remain competitive,is either to not compete solely on price, or to design in ways that minimize stitching because it is always slow (by comparison). For me it's a hobby that I want to be mobile so a machine is not a good solution. I might find it less therapeutic,

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For me, I get a feeling of pride when I see a nice row of my hand stitching and I just enjoy doing it. I don't have anything against machine stitching. -- Tex

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Here's what I learned and repeat with confidence as applies to tack and harness: The first sewing machines were single needle, needle feed. They used large needles but made a lockstitch of which the benefits have been discussed. It was a tossup which was better. When needle and awl machines were introduced, smaller holes, packed tighter with thread resulted so machine became potentially better, especially when speed was emphasized with handsewing and big awls were used to make thread passage easier. The question with things like cantle bindings and horn covers which can be machine sewn if certain assembly techniques are used is the relative suitability of the construction outcome not the inherent nature of hand vs machine sewing. Now fast forwarding to today, single needle, needle feed heavy duty machines have improved and advances in thread and needle availability make the stitch quality real close to needle and awl but a well adjusted and appropriately used N&A machine still is the champ! Now long story short, the answer to the "which is better" is it depends. Proper utilization and needle/awl/thread selection is still key and the relative prices of the different types of machines is still a consideration. All is offered IMHO

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For me, when I see something is handmade, I have visions of someone doting over their work and making sure everything is just so. Finally, a high-quality product (the won't fall apart) is produced just for me. That's a nice feeling. Too bad that is not always true.

On the other hand, when I hear of something being machine made, I have visions of something being forced though the production process at the cheapest and highest speed possible. On top of that, "inspector 1" had a hard night and was asleep at the wheel when my crummy product was missed in the quality inspection process. Arriving at my door is some piece of junk that I have to return.

The real truth is probably somewhere in the middle of these 2 scenarios.

Bruce

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I used to hand stitch......then I discovered electricity!!!! My life has changed.....

Picture342_zpsadc43c9a.jpg

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Old post I know but I read the OP link and have a question. "Machines that sew a saddle stitch"? Are there any? I am not sure what a needle and awl makes. I doubt any of them fit the picture of the flatbed machine in the link.

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Old post I know but I read the OP link and have a question. "Machines that sew a saddle stitch"? Are there any? I am not sure what a needle and awl makes. I doubt any of them fit the picture of the flatbed machine in the link.

...there may *exist* a machine that does a saddle stitch, but I doubt it and if there were, I very highly doubt those people on kickstarter have one. I think they just put that in there (e.g. LIED) and are using a standard lock-stitch machine. Least, that's what it looks like to me...

I mean, here is a pic of what is presumably the machine they use...what do you think? Looks like a regular, plain old lock-stitch machine to me...

https://s3.amazonaws.com/ksr/assets/001/150/012/1e613df62cca1ab35b3c3a889031cab2_large.jpg?1381735048

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Yes that is the pic I was referring to. I agree looks like a standard lock stitch to me. I cant even see a third shaft denoting a walking foot.

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No sewing machine does saddle stitch. Just think about a machine being able to transfer the spools of thread from one side to the other at every stitch! A robot may be able to be trained, but what happens when it drops a needle, or has to move the leather further along in the clamp? Would make a good cartoon show!

Tom

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Yeah, I was going to say that but then there would've been some smart-@## that would be able to pull one out of his rear end just to prove me wrong...but like I said, I have never heard of one.

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In my opinion saddle stitching is thee strongest stitch.

Hand stitching looks cooler but machine stitching looks cleaner. So it really depends on the end product.

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