Pricing Holsters

[charlescrawford]

I just finished a custom a holster for someone. It's for a Colt 1911. How do you guys price holsters? Where I am in western CO there is no one else doing Sheridan style holsters. I look on eBay and ETSY and yes they have holsters and yes technically they have flowers on them it's just not the sheridan style. By sheridan style I am referring to raised floral pedals and vine work seen typically in the west like on saddles like Don King use to make. I am not seeing anyone doing that stuff online and I am trying to figure out how to set up my pricing since each sheridan holster takes me a couple days to make.

I have no idea why my iPad won't autorotate the first image.

[GrampaJoel]

No offense meant, but you aren't technically doing Sheridan style carving either.

Your holster looks useful, but only so.

Take a look around these forums and make a comparison between others and your holster.

Suggestions,

Edging needs lots of improvement.

Coloring needles lots of improvement,.

Finish needs lots of improvement.

Style, type, practical fit need adjusting.

I've been harsh I know. But I have been honest.

You really have some distance to go before bragging about selling custom holsters on a market hoping to have walk-up orders.

Good professional quality holster makers are almost a dime a dozen on this forum.

You're not there yet friend.

But please don't give up. We all start at the beginning. I'd like nothing better than see you become a high quality leather holster maker.

Joel

[Dwight]

Quite honestly, . . . I have found that the market will work with you to help you price something, . . . no matter what it is.

It also does not matter how much time you have put in on a certain project.

The buyer will have an idea of what he will pay, . . . and while the first few you sell, . . . you may not do as well as you want, . . . you'll get a feel for the market.

Take em to a gun show, . . . plunk down the table price, . . . lay em out there with a price tag on em, . . . if they sell right away, . . . they were too cheap. If they are still there at the end of the day, . . . most likely you missed a couple of buyers who would have bought if it were just a bit less.

May God bless,

Dwight

[camano ridge]

I am afraid I won't be much help to you in pricing idea either. Compare your holster to many of the ones in the knife sheath, holster, sling forum ask yourself wich one you would pay more for. 1st ignore the carving on your holster just look at it as a basic holster and ask yourself how much you would pay for it in comparison to ones made by katsass, Josh, eaglestroker and some of the others that regularly post their work. Compare your holster to theirs and see what improvements you can do. As to Sheridan carving. I would call what you did more western floral. There is more to the Sheridan style then just raised flowers and vines. If you don't already have one get yourself a book like the one shown below. Your holster has more of a western flair. Looks like you are trying to make something along the Tom Three persons style. Lobo has some Three Persons type posted on the holster forum, look at them and compare to your holster. Also go over to cascity.com leathershop forum and look at the western style holsters there. I know you did not ask for a critique, however my tips and the comments made by GrampaJoel are made in the spirit of helping you get to where you will know just by looking at your holster how much you are going to ask for it and no you will be able to get that price. You are right it takes a fair amount of time to do Sheridan style carving.

Edited October 21, 2013 by camano ridge

[charlescrawford]

Thanks for the responses guys. Grandpa Joel Can you send me a PM and elaborate a little more on the areas I need to work on? You mentioned style type, and practical fit. All of the holsters I make come from patterns I have purchased. I have purchased the pattern pack for 1911's that Will Gromly did as well as some from Tandy (4418 pack) and some from Eric Adams. This particular holster pattern is one of the pattern packs from the Stolhman holster books. I just had to expand his pattern by 1/4" to fit this model 1911.

[Eaglestroker]

I won't speak to how to price, but waiting until the order is completed to then price the order is a recipe for heartache. Ask me how I know? Been there and gotten that t-shirt.

The rest just stems from how bad you want it. If it is something your serious about you'll never be truly 'happy' with the end result because you know what could be better. If you don't learn from a project your just not looking to! Good luck with it all and keep at it.

[katsass]

Charles, ditto to what GrampaJoel has already said. To it I'd add that you need to REALLY learn to stitch. You don't just poke a needle in from one side and then the other. As said by camano ridge, your tooling produces a (more or less) 'western' flavor , but in a way that does not set well with a 1911 type shooter and/or the holster design you have chosen. When building a holster, it's my feeling that the style must coincide with the firearm's vintage, and do the job that it's intended for in a pleasing way. Now, I definitely am not trying to put your effort down, nor am I trying to show off, but I'm including this pic of a 'western' style 1911 holster for you to look at in respect to what has been mentioned by those on this forum. Take notice of the edges, the hand stitching, the dye job and the lack of a 'plastic' appearing finish. Finally, a symmetry to the design which fits the gun. Keep at it, but work slowly and pay attention to the basics. Mike

[charlescrawford]

Kat,

What I have been using is the waxed nylon thread. I saddle stitch most of my projects. Should I not be using the waxed thread? The sealer I use is probably giving the "plastic" look. I use Tandy's Super Sheen and usually do 2 coats. All of my dyes are the Tandy Eco Flo dyes. I know I am probably going to catch holy hell for that but my reason is simple I have to watch what products I use and what fumes these products. I hit the health lottery not only do juggle issues with the MS but severe asthma as well. Eco Flo doesn't send me into an attack. The other reason is cost it's cheap and when you're on a limited income cost comes into play. So if there are things I need to change let me know I am willing to try new things I just have to stay within parameters. My leather shop if you will is the upstairs landing. Don't have a garage to work from like a lot of guys do as well.

[camano ridge]

Charles, I use the Tandy Pro Eco flo and they seem to work fairly well. I would skip the super sheen because that is probably giving you the plastic look. Try resoline cut 50% with water or for cost savings and you can see in the above picture it works fairly well Katsass and others on here use mop n glo/water 50/50.

[charlescrawford]

Charles, I use the Tandy Pro Eco flo and they seem to work fairly well. I would skip the super sheen because that is probably giving you the plastic look. Try resoline cut 50% with water or for cost savings and you can see in the above picture it works fairly well Katsass and others on here use mop n glo/water 50/50.

Camano Ridge Do you get the Resoline at Tandy as well? I just did a search on their site and nothing pulled up. I see they have their Professional Finish in matte and gloss is that what you were talking about?The stain I have now the regular eco flow I am about 1/2 through the "big" bottles of them. Once I start running out of them I will starting going over to the eco flo pro like you suggested. Now with the pro dyes do you have to do a lot of mixing I have read on some of the forums where you almost have to have a degree from nasa just to be in the room with Fiebing dyes. Are the pro dies like that or is it like what I am using now where you add as much or as little water to get the shade you want and it is what it is. Everyone really seems to like the Acorn brown and the Canyon Tan in the regular eco flo. Might have to jump on the sight and see what colors they offer

[katsass]

Charles, as to thread I use only waxed linen thread. I also use #1 sized needles and my stitch holes are no bigger than 3/64". Been using that stuff for 35+ years. You are using the Eco Flo dyes which, if I'm not mistaken, are water based dyes. When you apply a water based acrylic finish such as Super Sheen with a wool dauber, shearling swatch, foam paint brush, or a chunk of an old T-shirt, you are re-moistening the dye(?) and moving it around as you do your best to apply an even coat of finish. I only use a solvent based dye - Fiebing's or Angeles dyes are most likely the best. It appears that you are stuck on Tandy's for the purchase of your supplies. A suggestion, Call or e-mail Springfield Leather and get one of their catalogs. Then you can see what a true leather supplier looks like. Mike

[charlescrawford]

Mike - thanks for the info yes the Eco flo dies are water based. The reason I stay with those has been because of my asthma. When I say it's sensitive I mean it. Last winter I got a new pair of cowboy boots for Christmas. Before I wear cowboy I always waterproof spray them usually Justin brand since all my boots are Justin's. It was 10F outside so I waterproofed them inside in our big bathroom with the exhaust fan on door open and a floor fan. Within 5 min I was in an attack and spent the next month doing breathing treatments every couple hours. Now fumes and anything like that send my lungs into a fit. So that's why I have to be careful. The ecoflo dyes have no fumes.

[camano ridge]

Charles, the Eco Flo Professional Waterstains are on page 140 of the 2014 Tandy catalog. The matte or Gloss is on their finsh not the dye. The Ecvo Flo Pro waterstains are water based and dilute with water. The resoline is Fiebings however the Tandy that I shop at carries it.

[Red Cent]

I just bought this from Zack White Leather in Ramseur, NC. Works very well. Gives a semi gloss to leather. A little shine but not glassy. Some customers like the shine and it is a sealer.

http://www.zackwhite...art_p_2012.html

[GrampaJoel]

Charles, I'll post a couple of pictures to indicate the points I'm trying to make.

The saddle in the picture is of basic Sheridan carving style. See the circles that encompass the flowers? That's the pattern style of the Sheridan style of leather carving. It gets pretty complicated sometimes.

The holster to the left of the saddle is of a old 1880's style holster. Nice flower pattern, but not Sheridan style. More turn of the century style.

As this next holster is viewed. Notice how it's carved style is similar to your pattern. Basically a Al Stohlman west coast style. A very easy on the eye style, but again, not Sheridan style. Usually incorporates west coast acorns somewhere in the design.

Look these items over and I'll be back later.

Edited October 22, 2013 by GrampaJoel

[charlescrawford]

Charles, I'll post a couple of pictures to indicate the points I'm trying to make.

The first picture is of basic Sheridan carving style. See the circles that encompass the flowers? That's the pattern style of the Sheridan style of leather carving. It gets pretty complicated sometimes.

The next photo is of a old 1880's style holster. Nice flower pattern, but not Sheridan style. More turn of the century style.

As this next holster is viewed. Notice how it's carved style is similar to your pattern. Basically a Al Stohlman west coast style. A very easy on the eye style, but again, not Sheridan style. Usually incorporates west coast acorns somewhere in the design.

Look these items over and I'll be back later.

So I have the book Sheridan style carving by Likewise and several things by Chan Geer. I also have Bob Parks book and a bunch of Stohlman books. I understand about the circles and so forth but I was under the impression that Under sheridan there were different sub genre if you will like northwest. I always thought what Stohlman did was a variation of within sheridan. I guess I have been way off. Thanks for explaining things I never knew this stuff

[Josh Ashman]

Charles,

You're getting some great advice and I pretty much agree with everything Mike, Grampa Joel and Camano Ridge have already offered you. I'll throw in a few thoughts of mine regarding dyeing and finishing as food for thought.

You can get some very nice color in your projects without dying at all. Consider putting several light coats of neatsfoot oil on your work with a few hours of sunshine between each coat. If you do this and have your leather cased right when you stamp/carve it you'll have darker impressions and a nice golden brown color. You also won't have any fumes or dye bleeding onto your thread. Put a seal coat of Resolene or Mop & Glo cut 50/50 with water on it to protect it or you can also put on a coat of Aussie Wax or Sno-Seal on it and put it back in the sun to let the grease soak in. The wax/grease finish isn't as durable as an acrylic finish and it'll soften the leather but for a western type holster or range type holster that may not be an issue, it could even be desirable. If you're making a concealed carry affair I'd stick to the acrylic.

This is an example of how this finish process can look. This has several coats of oil (I forget how many but probably 3 or so) about two total days in the sun and Aussie wax for a bit of a sealer. The blacked edges and marks were made by dunking the rig in a barrel of water and rubbing around the wet leather with rusty horseshoes (wet, black slimy rusty, not dry rusty).

Another "natural" option is vinagroon if you're going for black. I personally haven't used this but there are some excellent and informative threads on the subject if you look around for them.

Good luck and have fun,

Josh

[charlescrawford]

Thanks for all the great info guys! I really appreciate it. Now with the Resolene is there a strong odor to it like say with the Justin's waterproofer spray or will is it pretty low and I should be OK? And by Mop & glo I don't mean to sound dumb as a turd but is that a sealer name or are we talking about the stuff mama (great gramma) used on the kitchen floors in the 70's....lol If it is that stuff does it really hold up? I have also heard about Wyosheen. Has anyone used that before what are your thoughts?

Edited October 22, 2013 by charlescrawford

[Josh Ashman]

I don't notice a smell with Resolene and yes plain old Mop and Glo from the cleaning isle of your local general store. It works great cut 50/50 with water. Diluting Resolene with water makes it work better in my opinion also. I haven't used Wyosheen but I've heard good things about it from those who have.

Good luck, Josh

[camano ridge]

esolene does have a n odor however to me it is not a strong odor, you may have more sensetivity to it. I t does not seem to bother my wife who has asthma. Yes Mop & Glo is floor wax. Does it hold up, think about it you wax floors that people walk on. I think Katsass uses it exclusively. THere are some others that use it regularly. I make mostly western stuff and I pretty much use Skidmores Leather Cream. On my modern stuff I use resoline and have used mop n glo and it does seem to hold up. I haqve not used Wyosheen as far as i know it is only available from Sheridan Leather it is $20.00 for a quart and the shipping is $23.00. I checked into it and decided not to try it at this time.

[charlescrawford]

Thats the main reason I haven't tried the wyosheen out it's the cost aspect. When your trying to do this on a limited income you have to do things selectively. I am going to give the resolene and Mop and Glo a whirl and see how it goes.

[chiefjason]

Mop & glo works well on most things. I had issues trying to use it over vinegroon though. Since then I've gone away from it. I finish by applying an oil/wax finish. 50% beeswax to 50% neatsfoot oil by weight, and melt it together. If you add just a bit of parafin you get more body to the finished product. I rub that onto the holster then heat it with a heat gun to soak it in. Two light coats. Then a top coat of Atom Wax to shine it up just a bit. Seems to hold up well and I don't have the cracking issue I occasionally had with acrylic finishes.

[charlescrawford]

I ordered resolene yesterday from Tandy so it should be in today.

Chief Jason when you melt beeswax and neatsfoot oil does the wax return to a lumpy state? Or does it all stay in a liquid or oily state?

[mlapaglia]

My wax/neetsfoot oil combo is a firm paste. A lot like past shoe polish used to be. Maybe not quite as stiff. Works great as does the resolene 50/50.

[chiefjason]

It's not lumpy. Mine might have been a touch heavy on the oil this time, it's in the realm of Vaseline for consistency. I'll probably add some paraffin wax next time to give it a bit more body. Seems to still work just fine. Just a bit more messy this go around. FWIW, the beeswax is from a NEW (very important) toilet seat ring. Just don't tell anyone. lol