First Saddle Project - Advice Appreciated

[Aurelie]

beware of staying "straight" and "level" with the floor with your rigging on both side => really important

better stay "good" technically and drop a bit the "esthetic" rather than the other way around.....(my opinion at least)

you will not have big troubles with back jockeys ......

you will just have a kind of "Barrel Look" and small Back jockey

if it really bother you = just make another pair of skirts (if yuo're not short of leather and if you really want a "traditionnal" look )

:D

[Goldshot Ron]

I suggest you start over on your skirts, which by the way I read your post, you'll have to buy another side of skirting. Your photos appear that the rear of the skirts are too small to fit your rigging. It doesn't look like the rear jockeys will be symmetrical will the front jockeys; and, you won't be satisfied if you just make do to save money. Skirts for ranch saddles should be more full and give more weight distribution on the hores's back.

The other possible solution would be to use Stohlman's ring style rigging. It doesn't have the bulk that flatplate has; however, your flank cinch dee still will look too low in regards to your skirt. Again, this may just be the photo, but I can't count how many times that I settled on "good enough" just to kick myself later for actually settling for my frugality.

Ron

[rdl123]

Goldshot:

I am very inclined to agree with you - Seeing as this saddle should last a long time I'd like to get it as close to 'right' as I can. Do you have a depth you typically strive for at the point of the rear rigging?

For $200.00 I can get another side of HO - Money well spent when I consider that this saddle should be the last I every personally will need. (providing that it proves to be functional)

My current saddle measures 7" from where the cantle runs into the bars to the outside edge of the skirt...

Thanks for your help on this,

rdl

[rktaylor]

rdl,

I agree with Goldshot. Get it like you want even if it costs extra money. I made a lot of mistakes on my first saddle and kept going in most cases because I didn't know it was a mistake or I didn't want to start over (though I did completely redo my seat). However, I knew I would be building a second saddle and viewed the first one as educational (I mostly learn by doing). My first saddle will likely be on a rack and used sparingly a year from now and I will be riding a new one.

One mistake that I made was not doing a good enough job blocking my skirts. I won't make it again.

Have you cut your hand hole yet?

Thanks for continuing to share your progress.

Randy

[Goldshot Ron]

RDL,

After rereading your post I have a suggestion on your skirts. Don't cut your skirts to the finished pattern until after blocking them. Every maker has a different technique, but I cut my center line or top part of the skirts first to make sure I have enough room for the handhole screw and the rear lacing area. Then I block the skirts. After they dry, then I determine how the bottom line will look and the front and back lengths. With that said, I measured a saddle that I'm working on, and the distance from the corner of the cantle at the front down to the bottom of the skirts is 6 1/4 inches. I try to keep my flank cinch billet fold on the saddle skirt and off of the horse's side. My skirts are usually butterfly style, so I think you and I are similar in what we're trying to achieve.

Randy...my first saddle has brought me more customers than any other saddle that I've built. Don't sell yourself short with your first one.

Ron

[Goldshot Ron]

There are several saddle critiques on this site, and I would suggest to search them out. Troy West, Steve Mason, and Steve Brewer are three of the names that I'd search for. They are three really good saddle makers, and their comments are really helpful toward form and design.

Back to the shop, good luck!!!

[Aurelie]

.... Skirts for ranch saddles should be more full and give more weight distribution on the hores's back.....

:D

good rephrasing...that's what i had in my mind

[rdl123]

Goldshot:

Thanks for the help on this - I have decided that I am definitely re-making the skirts - I went through my leather last night and do not have enough left so definitely will re-order a side of HO.

You said you keep your billet fold off of the horse - How far from the skirts is the bottom of your rear rigging ring?

Also, Troy West, Steve Mason & Steve Brewer - Pretty sure I've read/re-read everything they've posted on here!! They are definitely inspiring. Steve Brewer - I used his tutorial for my ground seat - It worked out well!

Anyhow - Appreciate the time you've taken out of your day to respond to my problems - I will re-make these skirts and use your idea of cutting the skirts large and finishing once blocked - This'll be a sure fire way to get them right - Should've done it in the first place - I just had concerns with getting both sides identical... so I figured I'd pre-cut.

rdl

[Goldshot Ron]

The distance of the rear flank cinch attachment point in relationship to the saddle skirts will be determined by form, style (and rigging style), and function. It is my opinion that the fold of the flank cinch billet should pivot on the skirts and not the horse. So, I can't say that there is a definite rule for ring placement.

This is Tom Dorrance's old Wade saddle. The flank cinch is placed where I try to place my billets. The billet fold is pivoting on the skirt. If you search Dale Harwood you'll see some traditional views for Wade saddles and how he places rear billets. This should help you with your Wade.

Ron

[rdl123]

Here is a picture of the first flat plate I have put together - It still needs to be sewed up. Still need to makes the right side plate - Maybe this Saturday...

I've ordered more Hermann Oak from Ken over @ Caledon so that will allow me to cut new skirts.

If anyone knows of a good used sewing machine for saddle work I am definitely interested. I enjoy hand sewing, however, in view of efficiency I do want to pick up a machine at some point...

R