rdl123 Report post Posted February 11, 2014 Here is this past weekends progress: Swell cover on, hand hole finished and horn capped and wrapped. Horn still requires the final, top piece. Had the horn cover fitting perfectly but when I glued it and then put it on I managed to get it up from the swell a bit... Horn on this tree was 100% flat so I made a 4" circle that skives to zero from middle to give it a dome effect - This is nailed and glued over the horn filler. Also, to all who have helped and given me needed insight and corrections - Thanks very much...I am looking forward to the second saddle project and avoiding mistakes I have made on this one. Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted February 12, 2014 Ron, Thanks for the update. It looks like you are making some progress. The swell cover looks really clean over the top of the riggings. Some say they go over and some say they go under. Probably won't start a fight like the idea of all leather vs. metal strainers on a ground seat though. I just want to soak up as much information as possible so I can decide what I prefer. The first ride is not too far off. Probably closer than spring for you. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted February 19, 2014 I am thinking of going with exposed stirrup leathers on this saddle. Any one have insight in to the pros and cons? I've searched quite a bit and haven't come up with anything definite. My current saddle has exposed stirrup leathers and I have had no issues... Thanks! R. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
AdamTill Report post Posted February 20, 2014 I considered them for mine, but in the end decided that the straight-ish leading edge of the fender that they really best suit didn't fit well with the very rounded saddle lines I was going with. I think the only real downside is extra weight and thickess, and the more limited range of cosmetic choices. On the plus side, they look really nice tooled up. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted February 20, 2014 To each his own, but it brings me to a point I arrived at years ago when I reduced the discussion on either an exposed or a 'regular' double leather to the question "why either?". I have for years now made and used 1/2 stirrup leathers standard for my saddles and repairs and offer doubles of either the exposed or regular kind as options. Options which are almost never exercised. If one is going for 'old timey' aura, then use them in their historical context. With a fender that has a small contact area secured with 2-3 copper rivits and a straight bottom line secured with 2 rivits. Include a liner which doubles the bottom of the assembly and makes the area that receives the weight of the stirrup double. Either way you'll have a result that weighs a couple of pounds more and has two moving or moved against edges to wear when one will more than suffice and, in fact reduce wear overall. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted March 3, 2014 Have been busy with other projects so not much time for this one - However did stamp and install my horn cap last night - Finished at 5.25" dia. R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted March 4, 2014 Ron, That looks really nice. The stitching is very uniform and I like the tooling. Keep the updates coming. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
harrington Report post Posted March 4, 2014 Did you forget to do your decorative cuts? I kind of like the point to the front of the horn, like a Guadalajara style, but not. Really nice sewing and nice domed shape to the top of the horn. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted March 4, 2014 Randy / Harrington - Thanks for compliments - Harrington - Yes, I haven't done decorative cuts yet - Need to study up on them as so far I've never made a decorative cut I liked! Do you have some tips? I need serious help with my tooling - I think what I need to do is spend the time to study Sheridan/floral style carving in detail, get a feel for how it's supposed to flow etc. The slight point to the otherwise round horn is something I picked up from Dale Harwood - He does it to break the monotony of round caps on larger horns - I like it too although I think I'll order my next tree with a Guadalajara style horn... Roughed out the fenders last night and have made patterns for the second set of skirts - I'll cut them to size once they are blocked on tree this time. R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldshot Ron Report post Posted March 4, 2014 Ron, your horn design looks good. One thing you need to do is hide the hole created by your dividers. If you use a stop on your petal junctions, it'll define the petals and cover the hole. It also appears that you used a lifter on your leaf, but you need to lift the tool more to enhance the raised areas of the leaf. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted March 28, 2014 Thanks Gold Shot: I will try to hide the divider mark - Have also been practising my decorative cuts as well... I have bought a larger lifter and it seems to work a lot better - Last one was so small it kind of got lost...Also lifting the lifter like you mention sure helps too! Anyhow, I am planning of putting my seat in tomorrow. I have watched the Jeremiah Watt DVD's and will use his layout method for putting the seat in - Does anyone have advice for a compete newbie on installing seats? Also, I have the new skirts blocked on - They fit this time and look ok...I will try to post pics for critique on Monday... An interesting thing, I discovered the cantle on my production tree was off square by probably 1/2" - I fixed by adding a chunk of heavy neck and skiving it out till both sides matched. Not much fun - Took me a whole afternoon of carefully checking balance...Anyhow, I am about to order a second tree and this one will come from Glenn Christman out of Alberta. I like the fact that he uses rawhide he personally prepares over factory produced stuff... Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted March 29, 2014 Ron, Can you elaborate on the cantle not being square? Where did you measure from and where did you place the leather to compensate? It's this a common problem? Thanks, Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted March 31, 2014 Randy: Glenn Christman (tree maker) made me aware of this potential issue. The biggest problem is if your cantle is not square it will push you off center when you lope trot etc...I am not sure how common this problem is - When Glenn explained this to me I immediately checked square on the saddle I am building and it was off...Strange thing is I've never heard of checking this in any books or DVD's...Guess it should be common sense to check it but it sure never crossed my mind. I had marked center on my cantle and horn. I marked center on the cantle by coming off of the bars - Not dividing the width of the cantle. From there I used the nail and string method. One from cantle center mark and one from horn center mark. The right side of the tree - The cantle sat further back by probably a good 1/2" off square. I was told to try and get it within 1/8" of square. Luckily I was able to get it bang on... When I have a minute I will take a pic of the leather neck piece I installed to make up for it. Here is a pic showing the measurements I took... Funny thing is - I had noticed previously that when I sat in the saddle I didn't line up with the center line on my ground seat. It always seemed like I was sitting at a minor angle. Anyhow, after the fix If I just jumped up I'd wind up being perfectly centered automatically. On Saturday I fit my seat - Went fairly well - now I just need to glue it in. Will post pics when I take some. Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted April 1, 2014 Randy: Glenn Christman (tree maker) made me aware of this potential issue. The biggest problem is if your cantle is not square it will push you off center when you lope trot etc...I am not sure how common this problem is - When Glenn explained this to me I immediately checked square on the saddle I am building and it was off...Strange thing is I've never heard of checking this in any books or DVD's...Guess it should be common sense to check it but it sure never crossed my mind. I had marked center on my cantle and horn. I marked center on the cantle by coming off of the bars - Not dividing the width of the cantle. From there I used the nail and string method. One from cantle center mark and one from horn center mark. The right side of the tree - The cantle sat further back by probably a good 1/2" off square. I was told to try and get it within 1/8" of square. Luckily I was able to get it bang on... When I have a minute I will take a pic of the leather neck piece I installed to make up for it. Here is a pic showing the measurements I took... Funny thing is - I had noticed previously that when I sat in the saddle I didn't line up with the center line on my ground seat. It always seemed like I was sitting at a minor angle. Anyhow, after the fix If I just jumped up I'd wind up being perfectly centered automatically. On Saturday I fit my seat - Went fairly well - now I just need to glue it in. Will post pics when I take some. Ron Ron, Curious, what make of tree are you using? Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted April 1, 2014 Bob: Timberline. Here is the seat fitted. Few things I will do differently next time that's for sure... Still have to glue this rascal in. R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted April 22, 2014 I have a question - When I glued my seat in I used a ceramic doorknob bouncer to really press the leather into the cantle face. It left some rub marks - Can anyone comment if these are permanent or if there is a way to minimize them? I will take some pictures. Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted April 22, 2014 Pictures please. Usually when I glue my seat in, I use a "protective leather" and a shoeing hammer. The leather I use is a piece of 13-15oz skirting that is shaped about 6" round. It is feathered about 1" in from the edge. I pound it and move it around all over the cantle as I pound and it gives a good smooth result. You might try that even now after wetting the seat a little to see if it takes out the marks you talking about. HOpe that helps you. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
Goldshot Ron Report post Posted April 22, 2014 Ron, The shape of the doorknob bouncer is probably convex, so if you use the leather pad as Bob mentioned, it will reduce the marks on the seat. I also use an old doorknob bouncer, and have experienced your problem. You just need to move it around continuously in different directions so that the leather is equally compressed throughout your seat. Superficial marks or indentations on leather can usually be removed or leveled out with moistening of the leather and rubbing out the mark with a rub stick (bone folder, slicker, etc.); just don't rub so hard that you end up burnishing the leather (this is permanent). Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted April 24, 2014 I believe I have actually burnished the leather - The door knob bouncer is convex - Next time I will be definitely using the protective leather pad. I have attached pictures for you to look at - Let me know if this looks recoverable. I guess the other question I have is will this affect the ability of the seat to absorb neatsfoot oil? Bob & Goldshot - I appreciate your help on this. Many Thanks, Ron Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted May 26, 2014 Been busy lately with other projects so this one has sat idle for nearly a month. Anyhow, tooled up rear jockeys and installed Cheyenne roll yesterday. Started sewing it - I'd be interested in any tips / tricks you have for this... Sewing through that roll is heavy work! Interesting thing about this project is that it has helped me to correctly value a custom saddle - I can now see why a good custom rig sells for $4000.00 / $6000.00. Any one who thinks that a custom saddle should cost anything less should just try make one! Ron L Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rktaylor Report post Posted May 27, 2014 Ron, Thanks for the update. I was getting curious about your progress. I can't offer tips on sewing a Cheyenne roll, but am interested in hearing any. Looking forward to seeing the final product. Randy Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted June 2, 2014 Cheyenne roll is sewn up now, rear jockeys stretched in (could use some more stretching I think). Next step is to bore through for saddle strings. Can anyone comment on that? I feel that boring is the way to go - Is there any compelling reason to just screw them on? MT, R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
oltoot Report post Posted June 2, 2014 Bore, then before assembly, use a french edger to cut out a slight groove between the holes and a matching one for the center of the strings on their flesh side and then beat in with a hammer before gluing on sheepskin. If you punch the holes in the skirts and jockeys with a 1/2 bag punch it will help with smooth installation of strings. Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
rdl123 Report post Posted June 3, 2014 Thanks Oltoot - That is the way I will go. Here are better pics. I am up for any critiques anyone can offer - Thanks, R Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
BondoBobCustomSaddles Report post Posted June 3, 2014 Ok Ron, up to now, you have taken your time and done a really nice job, you are getting right down to the end of it. As usual as is the case with me, I like to take my time and not rush it, however; when I get to the end , I find myself getting in a hurry to finish and see the results of my labor. I know it is hard, but; now is the time to make sure that you are continuing to take your time and do all that work you have done so far, justice. One thing I like to do to help with that is to make up a lot of the stuff that is time consuming and usually done last, but; doesn't have to be, like stirrups and fenders stirrup leathers rear billets and chinch, and so on. I try to get to these while I am waiting for the tree to come. Again, you are doing a nice job, you will be happy with the results. Bob Quote Share this post Link to post Share on other sites
